jschaefer7406 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Hello all, Recently, my 2000 S70 AWD has been sporadically creeping along when throttle is applied. Taking off, it'll drive and shift smoothly, just very slow (as if the throttle is barely touched). Idle is prefect, no DTCs (yet). Sometimes will hiccup at highway speed with the cruise set also (very subtle, as if the throttle is momentarily released). The highway hiccup has been going on for a few weeks, the hesitation when taking off started less than a week ago. For what its worth, seems more frequent when the ambient temp is high or engine bay is heat-soaked. Has also cut out momentarily under acceleration... Highway hiccups aren't seen on boost gauge, but when accelerating and it cuts out, the gauge flutters quickly. Hesitation when taking off isn't seen in the gauge either, as it behaves normal (except VERY slowly as if throttle is barely pressed). I know everyone instantly blames the ETM, but I've read a lot about the MAF doing this also. ETM is a yellow label, dated 2003. MAF was replaced in 2007. Done a lot if searching, just wanted to get a few ideas. As said, no codes or lights yet, and the symptoms are hit-and-miss (although seem to be getting more frequent). As said, idle is perfect (doesn't dip down when stopping either). Any ideas appreciated . Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Bump . Car is getting worse, to the point that I don't feel confident to take it to work . Love driving my T-tag dump, but miss the S70... Idle is still PERFECT. Acted up this morning on cold start, 72F ambient temp, kinda humid (was mostly acting up when HOT to this point). Will rev to approx 2.5k in neutral, but if throttle is pressed further, it will drop to 2k and feel slightly rough (as if dropping cylinders, like when the normal 4k rev limiter is hit). Tried restarting several times, no luck. Once it snapped out of it (5-10 minutes), it was fine the rest of the way home (only 5-7 miles or so). Still no ETS or MIL... Have read the ETM thread and understand the ETS system, but have also heard of MAF failures causing these symptoms... Tried to be thorough here, any help appreciated . Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossback Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 If you want a less expensive fix roll the dice and replace the MAF, it is cheaper than the ETM. A year and a half ago I had a CEL that I couldn't get rid of that functionally pointed all fingers to a bad ETM, but did not throw any related codes (It was a lean condition code) I took it to Seattle Volvo, Danny ran diags on it and it did show a failing ETM. I went ahead and got the Xemodex swap, and the code was still there. The code was caused by the MAF, but did not throw a MAF specific code, less than $125 later its run great since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 To be honest, it's hard to tell as they do have similar symptoms. You should have some stored codes so get them pulled and see what's up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Thanks guys . I'll try to get the laptop working again so I can use VADIS. Even if there are no codes, hopefully I can check the MAF signals and correction factor. Wish I had VIDA to run the ETM sweep tests ... Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozoned Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Have you checked your ignition coil and spark plugs? I had that problem and it sounds very familiar to me. Last week, I discovered about 1" high of oil inside of my ignition coil. The oil was leaking from the cap, which then goes to the ignition coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 24, 2012 Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 His car uses individual coil packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2012 Have you checked your ignition coil and spark plugs? As said, mine has individual coils. Thanks for the suggestion though . To update, I was finally able to get the DTCs read. Have a 91F0 and 91A7, so it does seem to indicate the ETM is bad. Still no light, acting up every day now though. ETM had a good run, dated '02 and has 120k miles on it. Can't complain I guess . Did check the voltage drop on the B+ cable just to make sure it's not a power issue. Had .275 to. 3v drop, which I know is excessive. Still had 13.25v at the fuse box though, which should be enough for the ETM to function normally. Can anyone confirm? Thanks guys, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted July 25, 2012 Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 Yeah, seems likely it's the etm then. I assume you mean the cable from the battery to the fuse box (some people use B+ term differently it seems). That reading is a bit high and you should probably replace or supplement it but the likelihood that it is causing the etm issue low, IMO. Looks like you are looking at replacing the ETM and I would remedy the cable issue at the same time. You could also check and clean the ground on the etm harness where it grounds to the block (brown wire, IIRC?) and voltage at the harness, but again low likelihood I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.