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400Hp Engine Build - Some Questions.


Boxman

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Joe, thanks for your reply on the MAF, my mistake right there. Running a Turbotuner will allow to adjust settings regarding a possible MAF issue as it allows you to adjust the software?

Then what is it that the larger housing adds so you can pass the 290 crank hp? (sorry for this *noob* question).

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Just because the maf has a limit of 231 g/s doesn't mean the car is limited to ~ 290 crank hp although you could easily make that presumption based on previous comments. Volvo knows that there is a limit and M4.3 and M4.4 is programmed to interpolate when the MAF is maxed out, there is a table for it specifically. You can and will make more than the standard maf rate to HP ratio even when your maf is pegged at 5 volts reading 231 g/s. You will not have an optimized setup though as the ECU will be interpolating based on a couple of unknowns: meaning since 4.3/4.4 does not know actual boost pressure, when you are over limit 4.3/4.4 is calculating maf rate on top of that... less than ideal. The tendency in this situation is to run slightly lean..

Robert and I have been working quite a bit with S90 mafs recently, doing tons of logs on my car. My 850 maxed out the stock maf at around 13 psi at 100% calculated load. The S90 Maf I've had installed for a couple months I am maxing out around 16-17psi but it's still a large improvement over the stock maf and the improvement over 4.3 with the stock maf is significant. As others can tell you, without rescaling, the S90 maf registers around 3g/s at idle so going too much larger than that with 4.4 will prove difficult due to lack of sensitivity at idle.

To reach 400 hp ( OP I forget are we talking wheel or crank? ) you could setup a 3" maf setup with TT although You could certainly hit 400 crank with the right turbo on 4.4 with an S90 or ME7 maf. Just keep in mind that you will be hitting the mafs ceiling around 340 crank hp.

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Joe, thanks for your reply on the MAF, my mistake right there. Running a Turbotuner will allow to adjust settings regarding a possible MAF issue as it allows you to adjust the software?

Then what is it that the larger housing adds so you can pass the 290 crank hp? (sorry for this *noob* question).

Yes, TurboTuner allows you to rescale the fuel, ign, boost maps to allow for the larger housing. You will still max out the MAF, just later on. I'm around 400WHP, and the MAF maxes out @ 17psi. around 6K rpm. When I increase the boost it will max out sooner, so hard to properly tune for 20-22psi when I can run up to 8K rpm.

My point was simply that rewiring an alternate MAF sensor is unnecessary. The next option is standalone EMS.

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Yeah, I am at 330 WHP at 21-22 psi with the stock MAF. Going higher boost didn't gain me much HP, so the MAF limited me.

Stand alone isn't an option for me since I still have to pass emissions.

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Fuck Off Asshole.

Anyone know how to block a poster from showing up? I'm tired of this dipshit.

Edit - figured it out.

Damn, someone got there panties in a wad... I guess pointing out his head problem made him a little upset. Then again who in the hell removes the valve choke?

Anyways, its just a question people lke Zappo are running 330whp on stock MAF. I have always went to a stand alone EMS on any car I have built other then lightly modified ones like my daily. So, I have never really taken any time to even look at this problem.

I guess. sconeman has it right if that is true that the MAF stops reading at 231g/s but most lightly modified cars will be able to hit that number. So when we are hitting numbers like 330whp are we just guessing at MAF readings? I mean guessing your airflow above 231g has to be inaccurate and if true makes me think any tune larger then a 16T would be basically worthless on a stock MAF atleast with the stock housing. I mean 330whp is like 290g/s or more so thats quite a bit of interpolation.

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I got a reply from the tuning shop (fasttech) that they will make a 100mm MAF housing in order to solve the problem. All i have to do is to adapt the tubing to 100mm.

On a completely other note, when fitting the engine, i was thinking about servicing the crankcase ventilation while i'm at it. Its a big system and i'm wondering what i should replace -- just the oil trap itself? Or is it something that can be cleaned without too much effort?

Also im thinking of getting an R clutch - would it handle 400hp?

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While the engine is still apart you need to clean the crank ventilation return channel all the way in to the crank pan. Remove as much rubbish / sludge as possible.

Install new oil trap and hoses.

R Clutch won't fit because the M66 gearbox has a larger diameter main shaft. (Prise)

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"R clutch won't fit", are you sure about that? It's being advertised as fitting all 850 manual gearboxes...

So new oil trap, and which hoses? There are a dozen hoses connected to that trap, and i suppose just cleaning them might be enough? Replacing all hoses seems expensive to me.

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So new oil trap, and which hoses? There are a dozen hoses connected to that trap, and i suppose just cleaning them might be enough? Replacing all hoses seems expensive to me.

If you're shooting for significantly higher than stock output, you need to address the breather system. At a bare minimum EVERYTHING stock related needs to be replaced, and as Johann pointed out, the passages in the block/carrier/pan have to be thoroughly flushed, there will be debris/coking in there. Additional breathing/venting may be necessary, depending on what power level you ultimately shoot for.

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