Boxman Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Are there kits available for this or do i need to order every single clamp hose and bolt individually? Still, if i clean all hoses... Why replace them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 "R clutch won't fit", are you sure about that? It's being advertised as fitting all 850 manual gearboxes... The M66 isnt an 850 gearbox.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yeah i see... The 850 R manual had a M59. So why would he bring the M66 up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Yeah i see... The 850 R manual had a M59. So why would he bring the M66 up? Becasue the 850 R and the S60R are both refered to as the "R" car. Unfortunately people use that expression way too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Ah right. Well i thought it was clear i was driving an 850. Anyway, back to the questions at hand: - replacing the oil trap and using the original piping is ok? - will the 850 R clutch hold 400HP (keep in mind its not going to be a racecar, maybe a track day every now and then) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 The opposite would be better. Clean the oil trap and replace the piping. The minute you touch that stuff it will disintegrate in your fingertips. Ideally you just replace it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 I'm counting 10+ pieces of piping in the schematics... Really, replace it _ALL_? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 I'm counting 10+ pieces of piping in the schematics... Really, replace it _ALL_? Just check how everything is placed against the engine because there are several versions of some of the hoses. The ones which should be replaced regardless are the ones which connect to the back/side of the oil trap and which lead straight to the engine. These are the ones which you can't reach that well anymore once installed. The other lines can be reached even when the intake is already mounted. Not easy but can be done. Visually checking those lines should be enough because they do not clog that much but do check if the rubber isn't to dry and do not have cracks. For the R clutch.. Sorry, I assumed the S60R clutch. You are talking about the 272218 clutch. This type can handle roughly 450Nm of torque. If you tune the GT30 along those numbers you could reach high HP numbers with relative low torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Okay I'm slightly worried about something else now. When closing up the engine, I did not get the rotating assembly balanced (didn't have the flywheel and pressure plates yet). The question; in what state should the engine be to get the rotating assembly balanced? Currently the head is off, but the oil pan is on already (as well as the pump etc). And also, is it necessary? I've used Wiseco forged pistons, MaxSpeedingRods H-beam conrods (within 1g tolerance from each other) and the crank was checked at the machine shop and deemed 'OK'. What are the risks of not balancing the rotating assembly? And can it be done even with a fully closed engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 So when we are hitting numbers like 330whp are we just guessing at MAF readings? It's pretty simple, you set your target boost and play with the fueling/timing until it's correct for full throttle/full boost. The drawback is that at less than full boost, but still flowing >= the maf limit you will be running rich. That leaves a relatively narrow range at the top where you have no resolution at all. What I used the car for, or with my way of driving, I never found that to be a problem. It worked perfectly fine half throttle for example, it's just when you go 80% throttle or so that things can get a little weird (very rich) but it's easy to avoid that condition with your right foot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Okay I'm slightly worried about something else now. When closing up the engine, I did not get the rotating assembly balanced (didn't have the flywheel and pressure plates yet). The question; in what state should the engine be to get the rotating assembly balanced? Currently the head is off, but the oil pan is on already (as well as the pump etc). And also, is it necessary? I've used Wiseco forged pistons, MaxSpeedingRods H-beam conrods (within 1g tolerance from each other) and the crank was checked at the machine shop and deemed 'OK'. What are the risks of not balancing the rotating assembly? And can it be done even with a fully closed engine? Absolutely nothing to worry about. You're fine. Unless you plan to rev to 11,000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Back again with a new question. So I now have a GT3071R turbo with a T3 turbo housing. Now, this has a rectangular fitting to the manifold, and the manifold I have (T5 flowed manifold) is circular. Do I need an adapter plate that goes from circular to rectangular to minimize turbulence and resistance on the transition from the manifold to the turbo, or is this just minimal? And where can I obtain such adapter plate? Otherwise I'll just have the lip machined off the manifold and fit a steel gasket between the two, with no flowed path from circular to rectangular. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Back again with a new question. So I now have a GT3071R turbo with a T3 turbo housing. Now, this has a rectangular fitting to the manifold, and the manifold I have (T5 flowed manifold) is circular. Do I need an adapter plate that goes from circular to rectangular to minimize turbulence and resistance on the transition from the manifold to the turbo, or is this just minimal? And where can I obtain such adapter plate? Otherwise I'll just have the lip machined off the manifold and fit a steel gasket between the two, with no flowed path from circular to rectangular. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Flange-Stainless-Turbo-Volvo-Adapter-for-T3-/390454860138?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae8ec596a&vxp=mtr I smoothed my transition once with the 60trim but that did do anything to spool response or whatever. So I say just use the adapter or mill it and leave it as is. You may want to sell the turbo in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Unless you're going to go with a header with a T3/4 flange, just machine the lip off & don't worry about it. It would be an issue if the outlet from the manifold was larger than the turbo inlet, but that is not the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Mine is machined off and I can use the stock oil return line; no need to custom fabricate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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