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400Hp Engine Build - Some Questions.


Boxman

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Unless you're going to go with a header with a T3/4 flange, just machine the lip off & don't worry about it. It would be an issue if the outlet from the manifold was larger than the turbo inlet, but that is not the case.

The R manifold hole is larger top and bottom than the T3 opening. I ported the old 60trim at least 2mm top/bottom to accommodate this. I didn't do it on the holset.

Mine is machined off and I can use the stock oil return line; no need to custom fabricate it.

Def a bonus over using the adapter plate.

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Thanks for the replies guys. But if I machine the lip off my manifold, I'll still need a steel gasket, right? As afaik the lip was there so that Volvo's turbo would fit on the manifold with no need of a gasket.

Anyway, another question;

I was about to drop in my cams so I was checking the timing on them. The exhaust cam seems to be 3deg retarded and the intake cam 1deg advanced. The markings made by the screws on the pulleys suggest that this was the factory setting.. Is this normal? Do I keep these timings, or do I set them to dead center when I reinstall the pulleys?

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I am not running a gasket and no leaks, if the turbo bolts are thight. :) I have had them loosen up, so periodic checking is good.

Is this for NA cams? I wouldn't set them centered. You need to set them so there isn't valve overlap. Lucky recommends 2 degree advance on the Exhaust and 2 degree retard on the intake for NA cams.

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The R manifold hole is larger top and bottom than the T3 opening. I ported the old 60trim at least 2mm top/bottom to accommodate this. I didn't do it on the holset.

Thanks for correcting me! Not enough to really be a concern, but still if you're picky, shaving a couple of mil on the turbo hotside to match makes sense.

I haven't found the need to add a gasket with flat flanges.

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I had changed the cam timing a bit to try to lower the RPMs the turbo spooled at. I never had a significant change though. When I was having the car tuned, we seemed to reach a limit, but we still had time left so we adjusted the cams back to 0/0 and ran it again. I ended up building power sooner through the whole range. I didn't really mess with it any more after that.

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New question;

Cams are in, about to do the timing belt. How do I check the condition of the timing belt tensioner?

The small rod coming out of it sticks about 1~1.5cm out of its housing. When I push it in (using a vice), it will come out again to about 1-1.5cm out of its housing.

Is this normal? Should it not stick out way further?

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