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No Start, No Spark, No Fuel


bergmjs

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Try this.. do your regular morning start. then when it is a no start. unplug all injectors, pull engine ecu, and wait 1 min. re-install everything. It sounds odd but give it a shot, it has worked for us in our diagnoses.

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Try this.. do your regular morning start. then when it is a no start. unplug all injectors, pull engine ecu, and wait 1 min. re-install everything. It sounds odd but give it a shot, it has worked for us in our diagnoses.

Doesn't explain no spark.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I was out driving it to charge the battery up during one of the times that it did start. I was going up a hill in 2nd gear, 4k rpm, 15psi of boost and whizzz-BANG the turbo popped with a big smoke plume. Shaft in the turbo snapped on the cold side right behind the compressor wheel, so the wheel was just bouncing around inside. Checked for compression on all cylinders, still good. What the hell makes a turbo axle snap like that?

Fast forward to today, I bought a junkyard 16T off ebay and installed it. Car started right up, a whole bunch of oil smoke for the first few miles that I drove it. I also noticed a really high pitched whining noise whenever I jabbed the throttle a little. I left the wastegate that came with it on it and it's evidently bad since it can't build any boost. I'm pretty sure the high pitched noise is the turbo. Could oil starvation have caused the first turbo to snap and now causing this whine? I can't imagine how my oil passaged would be clogged though, I change my oil religiously every 5k with Mobil 1 Full Synth high mileage.

So anywho, back to the original problem, I decided to replace the main fuel injection relay with a brand new KAE unit from FCP, same problem of no starting.

Here's a list of everything replaced within the past 2 weeks because of this no-start problem:

Crank Sensor

Cam Sensor

Main Fuel Injection Relay

ECU (M4.4 upgrade from Lucky)

Ignition Switch

MAF Sensor

Fuel Pump

The problems actually started getting a lot worse when I put the new junkyard fuel pump in, but I don't see how that could possibly cause my symptoms. I still have good pressure at the rail.

I'm starting to get really frustrated since I need my car to be reliable to get to work. I love my car and I don't want to do it, but if I have to, I'm going to have to replace it with something reliable. I don't know what else to do, any suggestions would be great.

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I put the coil in and it doesn't seem to have an effect. When there is spark, it fires up instantly, but when there isn't, it just keeps turning over.

I followed this troubleshooting guide: http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/3bzfo-1994-volvo-850-cranks-won-t-start-no-spark-replace.html

And got up to where you need a breakout box. The only bad thing I found was the ignition control signal was only ~0.3 volts, where it should be at 0.7-1.3v. I have already replaced EVERYTHING involved with the ignition system. What the hell else is there to try? I'm missing the control signal for the coil, but the two sensors that generate that control signal are brand new and the ECU that interprets those sensors is also new tested by Lucky.

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I would throw in a factory computer, new fuel relay and new cts.....obviously no one likes throwing parts at a car but thats what i would do. The fuel relay and the ctp will cause this sort of problem and theres not always dtc codes.

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Its gotta be an electrical issue some where, i would look at the fuel pump relay, i know its sorta new but sometimes new parts can go bad quickly....i would hate be in your position, especially if it was my only means of transportation, sorry to hear your havin so much trouble

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In case anyone searches for this topic later, the problem has fixed itself for now. I, my dad, internet Volvo techs, and a local Volvo tech *think* there's a jiggly wire somewhere in the starting circuitry, but can't state for sure. But just replacing crap and jostling the thing around, my start rate has increased from 10% to 90% now.

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