Doityourselfer Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Hello, I now own my newly purchased 96 850 2.3 Turbo for about 2 weeks. Car is at 143,000. the car boosts well, and seems to perform ok except for one issue- when you hit the gas to accelerate it will take off nice and give you the power, but all that comes to an end when you hit 3200 rpm. when you hit 3200 the needle then drops down to 3100 and stumbles between 3,100 - 3,200. it will not go any higher for no money in the world. I suspected a clogged air filter, but the air filter is fine. I'm thinking clogged fuel filter... could that cause this condition? could it be bad fuel pump? clogged injectors? electrical problem or electrical related? I seriously doubt a boost leak but I will check all hoses... please feel free to chime in .... has anyone experienced such a thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_HighVoltage_ Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 It may be stupid but...stuck in winter mode perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 car is not in winter mode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Even if it was a boost leak the motor would still build rpms, you just got the car....first things first a full stage 0. Just about everyone on this site has had this problem.... The plug wires cap and rotor usally is what causes this you need to replace All ign. Componets with OEM PARTS!!!! Replace vac lines, filters, and youll be in great shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Just about everyone on this site has had this problem.... The plug wires cap and rotor usally is what causes this you need to replace All ign. Componets with OEM PARTS!!!! Replace vac lines, filters, and youll be in great shape. Can I get the cap and rotor from FCP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 how about the ignition wires... are the bosch ones ok? I can get these for like $46 the volvo ones seem to run way more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 fuel pressure regulator, might be transmission related, check your ignition components. have you done a stage 0 on the car since you have purchased it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 fuel pressure regulator, might be transmission related, check your ignition components. will go through all these one by one. how do I check the fpr? should I hook up a fuel pressure gauge and rev car and see what happens? might be transmission related, check your ignition components. transmission related? now I'm getting scared Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Its not your transmission trust me you just need a tune up. I get all my parts from ipd and/fcp. Its your choice get oem parts, you want bougicords for the plug wires, and bosch cap and rotor....spark plugs you dont have to go with oem but i do. Also want to replace the fuel filter(requires no tools by the way)air filter, check your vac lines for cracks and tears. You should be in great shape after this.You really need to go with volvo oem wires which are bougicords. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 http://www.kingsbornewires.com/product.sc?productId=83&categoryId=71 these are good as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I began looking at all the vac lines- and found two broken ones. one went to the thing (solenoid valve?) that sits on top of the turbo (drivers side) the vac line was broken by the nipple. I fixed it with a vaccum connector and new piece of tubing. another break was on a vaccum nipple thats located at the bottom of the maf to turbo air hose- on the bottom of this hose right before it hits the turbo there is something electrical there with a connector, vac nipple and larger nipple attached to it. the vac nipple was broken off with the broken nipple stuck inside the vac hose. I drilled out the plastic and inserted a brass tube into the plastic assembly and reattached. ---->accidentally I drilled a drop too far and the drill went into the other side of the assembly a drop...did that kill the piece? do I need a new one whatever that is??? I went for a drive, and for the first time ever the car went higher then 3200 rpm, but after 5-6 mins of driving suddenly the car wouldn't boost normally, it felt weaker. after some more mins of driving the engine began to stumble and it stalled on me. I restarted, and car would drive but didn't seem to have proper power when in boost, and sometimes the needle wouldn't even go into boost....wierd. I'm wondering what that assembly on the bottom of the maf-turbo hose is, and if that could cause such problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 car now drives fine. I drove it close to 100 miles today mixed driving city/highway and car performing well EXCEPT- the boost needle will not go more than 1/8" into the white. basically it seems not to be boosting properly. before I fixed the broken vac lines (as described above) the boost needle went all the way till the end of the white, but it wouldn't go past 3200 rpm. now that I fixed the vac lines, it revs fine, but now boost needle will only go a little bit into the white, and I can tell it's not as powerful as it should be if it was properly boosting. whats up with that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBoosT5 Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 check your the location of the vacuum lines. find a diagram and make sure everything is on the right spot. that makes a huge difference. Not putting down your mechanical abilities, stupid things happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 check your the location of the vacuum lines. find a diagram and make sure everything is on the right spot. that makes a huge difference. Not putting down your mechanical abilities, stupid things happen. where can I find such a diagram? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6941 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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