t8fanning Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I just acquired a 15G for super cheap, and am planning on rebuilding it. When i separated the CHRA from the compressor housing, I noticed 3 compressor vanes with some deformation on the very tip. It doesn't seem like much, but I have never rebuilt a turbo before, and am not familiar with specs. Can I keep this compressor wheel or should I switch it out? I'd like to keep it and avoid rebalancing the turbo upon rebuilding. The compressor housing itself has very little markings (nothing that looked like a dragging tip through a full revolution) and the shaft spun freely before I took it apart with no dragging or scratching. Thanks in advance for any help and sorry for crappy cell phone pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Wheel looks fine, if your missin points or pieces bigger than a small fly thats when its know good...your wheel looks that of a 15 year old comp. Wheel you should be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98t5M Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 I'm not seeing anything wrong there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t8fanning Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 In the last picture, the vane is upturned at the very tip a little. But apparently not enough to worry about. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Are you guys serious? There's no way I'd run that in my own car. Compressor wheels don't bend on their own, something caused it to bend. Either it was out of balance causing it to contact the compressor housing, or it hit some debris which would certainly knock it out of balance. Either way, its out of balance and damaged. You need a new compressor wheel and the turbo needs to be balanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98t5M Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Okay I see it now. Yea im with RZT5, get a new wheel. They are really cheap anyway so why risk it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t8fanning Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Saab-Isuzu-Mitsubishi-TD04HL-15G-Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-/160838215632?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2572b467d0&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1413 Think this is quality? Anyone know of a good supplier of compressor wheels? Also is it necessary to replace my compressor housing? I am at work so I don't have a picture, but I can take one tonight. There is hardly any marks and no scoring. The marks look like polishing if that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 No reason to change the housing. Just get the wheel, then send the CHRA to GPopShop for balancing - they do great work for reasonable $$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t8fanning Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 What are the quality differences between the various ebay vendors? My rebuild kit is all genuine Mitsubishi, but hardly any of the compressor wheels on ebay have the original manufacturer information. Would the cheapest wheel have much of a quality difference between the most expensive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Green Source on eBay has high quality components. The differences most likely will come down to how much weight has to be removed to achieve balance. I would imagine the cheaper ones are cast to less exacting specifications, but who knows for sure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 I have compared a genuine MHI 18T and aftermarket 18T wheel side by side. The finish on the genuine MHI wheel looks smooth and precise, the blades have tapering thickness (thick at the center and thinner as you move away from the center), and the secondary blades have a slight curve to them. The aftermarket wheel looks a little rougher, the blades are uniform thickness their entire length, and the secondary blades are straight. Also, all aftermarket TD04 wheels I have ever seen look like they use the same casting. I am not a fluid engineer, so I don't know how any of this affects performance, and I also cannot tell anything about the metallurgy of the wheel just by looking at it. I would assume the genuine MHI wheel would be better though. However, you will find that most of the 18Ts and 19Ts kicking around on VS have aftermarket wheels and people have had great success with them. If you do decide you want a genuine MHI wheel, forced performance is the only place I know of in North America that carries them. http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=MCW&Category_Code=Turbo-Parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 ..yeah.... $180 for an MHI wheel - not worth it for a stock Volvo turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 ..yeah.... $180 for an MHI wheel - not worth it for a stock Volvo turbo. Despite my preference for genuine parts, I completely agree. Buy the cheapest wheel you can find (all the aftermarket ones use the same casting from what I can tell) and save the money for a real turbo down the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 It's fine. If you have a steady hand, you can take some needle nose pliers and gently bend the tip back into place. If you have a good eye you can get it close enough to where you can't see the runout with the naked eye. If it feels brittle, heat it up with a torch first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t8fanning Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 http://shop.midwestturboconnection.com/MHI-TD04-15G-Compressor-Wheel-1401-404-415.htm You don't think this is genuine MHI? It's fine. If you have a steady hand, you can take some needle nose pliers and gently bend the tip back into place. If you have a good eye you can get it close enough to where you can't see the runout with the naked eye. If it feels brittle, heat it up with a torch first. I will try this, but I don't know about running it. We'll see. I can get a wheel for $28 on ebay, and I'll get it balanced so the peace of mind is worth the cost to me. I'm going for longevity and durability as well as performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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