sdancer Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 So I rescently had a cv axle replaced on the passenger side after the boot ripped and we discovered that the bolt on the end was so rusted to the axle when they took it off it destroyed the threads. Anyways they replaced it with a new axle, not Volvo oem becuase I needed it on short notice, but it is made by the same people apparently. So its not a poo poo chineese one. Now I get a slight wobble I feel more in the gas pedal than anything arround 20 mph. Anywhere else it is fine, except maybe when I really put my foot down. What could this be? Bad axle, installed wrong? Hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 I don't think the axle you got was "made by the same people". The OEM is GKN-Lobro, I don't know if I've ever seen them offered at the parts houses, except noted as OEM Volvo. I don't recall ever seeing them listed as GKN-Lobro in a generic style package (though I definitely could be wrong). If you paid approx. $400 plus installer mark-up I might stand corrected. Odds are better you got a Chinese Febi or similar for $200 or so. I think the discounters sell the the Febi's for around $125 though the quality is rather poor, especially the quality of the boots which will split in a years time. You could have a bad inner joint which causes the wobble. Could also be a bad ball joint or tie-rod. Installation is pretty straight forward so not much to screw up, the only problems could be damaging the surrounding suspension while removing the axle and/or re-installing the rotor with debris that causes it to no longer run true (more of something you'd notice in braking and not accelleration). The rotor doesn't have to come off for axle replacement, so this may be a total non-issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBoosT5 Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Assuming you got a reman or a used axle, it sounds as either the axle was bad to begin with or you did not torque to the correct specs, this could cause rotor warpage and the symptoms you speak of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Well I paid 300 in total (120 ish for the axle) so I'm assuming I have been lied to. Back to the garage to ask who makes the axle I got.... By the way, Is there any way to see if a junkyard axle is good? Besides maybe an intact boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Well I paid 300 in total (120 ish for the axle) so I'm assuming I have been lied to. Back to the garage to ask who makes the axle I got.... By the way, Is there any way to see if a junkyard axle is good? Besides maybe an intact boot? It's fairly easy to see if a junkyard axle is okay, with it removed simply grip it on each side of a joint and twist in the opposite direction with each hand. Should not be any play. My new favorite place to get axles is from my local pick and pull, you need a portable torque wrench to get the axle nut off, the other hardware comes off with normal tools. There are a lot of good OEM Volvo axles out there for $15 each + your labor. Find a good one, add a new outer boot, you will be happy for a long time. Avoid anything with a split boot, your odds of a decent axle decline very quickly if that joint has been opened to the elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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