jschaefer7406 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Hello all, Swapped the ETM on my '00 S70 AWD yesterday with an Ebay unit (dated 2010, from a '00 S80 T6). Car runs great, nice and smooth. Does have a slight idle fluctuation though (mostly when warm and in park). Will quickly oscillate on the boost gauge, moving only about 1" or so of vacuum. Not a lot, but enough to make me wonder. Old ETM had rock-steady vacuum readings at idle, and both are reading the same overall value (around 22" warm idle), so I don't think theres a leak anywhere... I've read that if an ETM from an N/A is installed on a turbo car, idle will be poor. I'm assuming that's a lot more drastic though, this is just a minor glitch. Idle sounds and feels fine, just mostly noticable on the boost gauge. ETM was cleaned thoroughly before installing, and battery cables were touched together to reset the adaptives. Don't think I missed anything. Thoughts? Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 A/C wasn't on, right? Yeah, N/A ETM on a Turbo car produces an unbearable idle, you'd know if that was the case. Odd that yours is fluctuating though unless the 2010 is already showing signs of failure? (You probably paid a lot so I didn't want to say that!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Did you reuse the gasket? Probably have a vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah, A/C is off when it does this. Only happens when fully warm in park or neutral too. Rock steady at idle in gear, or idling when not fully up to temp... As for the the gasket, always use new and cleaned both the intake and ETM surfaces thoroughly. Not even enough of a variation to show up on the tach, as it is very still. Just bugging me though... Thanks guys, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 Just to update, I had no cruise or lockup function when leaving work this morning. Lockup started working, followed by cruise (not both together, cruise took longer). Replaced the brake pedal position sensor a year or two ago for the same symptoms, doubt it's bad again already. I know the ETM can cause cruise problems, but the converter lockup? No DTCs stored, idle oscillation continues . I replaced the B+ cable at the same time, just to give an idea if what was removed/disturbed. Double checked all wiring and vacuum connections, all tight and in place... Throttle gasket was new, throttle was thoroughly cleaned (yes, I used carb cleaner...but applied to a rag and used sparingly, not sprayed until it was saturated in every orifice). Double checked gasket is in place and didn't slip... I suppose the used ETM COULD be faulty, but it is dated week 11 of 2010. Hard to imagine its acting up already. Heck, it even LOOKED new (aluminum was shiny still, no corrosion like they all get). I know that doesn't mean much, just wanted to mention. I'm out of ideas . Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 Anyone? Cruise and lockup still intermittent. No ETS or MIL lamps, no DTCs last I checked. Can a faulty ETM cause no lockup or cruise functionality? Can't imagine its the brake pedal position sensor again, but sure acts the same... Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmsee Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 You can't just swap ETMs from one car to another, they are VIN programmed, most likely you need a dealer to reload the ETM software. You can try pulling fuse #23 (S60) ECMcoil might be different for your model and see if it resets the ETM, if doesn't help, then you need the software update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 You can't just swap ETMs from one car to another, they are VIN programmed, most likely you need a dealer to reload the ETM software. You can try pulling fuse #23 (S60) ECMcoil might be different for your model and see if it resets the ETM, if doesn't help, then you need the software update. Yes you can, been done many times. Turbo to turbo and N/A to N/A is the safest bet. I sent an N/A throttle body from an S70 to a person in Japan that is now running it on their N/A V70 with no issue. Also using an S80 T6 ETM on my S70 GLT with no programming needed whatsoever. I wish I had more insight into your problem jschaefer, this sounds very annoying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
831t5r Posted August 18, 2012 Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 I believe etms are same part numbers now. Just different softwares and can reprogram em. I put an extra etm i had from my 2000r on a 2002 or 2003 s60. Same part numbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 You can't just swap ETMs from one car to another, they are VIN programmed, most likely you need a dealer to reload the ETM software. You can try pulling fuse #23 (S60) ECMcoil might be different for your model and see if it resets the ETM, if doesn't help, then you need the software update. You speak like you know this first hand, which you probably dont. I swapped ETMs way back in 2008/2009 when XeMODeX first hit the market. I probably had one of their first 10 units. I swapped from my 99 XC70 to my 01 C70, they worked and is working to this day in my sold 99 xc70 that has my 01 c70 ETM. I kept the etm in my 01 C70 since it has a lifetime warranty. OP is talking about a 00 X70, no pulling fuses in this car. i bet you the idle issue continue in gear but is not noticable because it is in gear. ETM is probabably bad. Even though it is dated 2010, you can still have a worn etm. Do you have another MAF to swap out and test with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 i bet you the idle issue continue in gear but is not noticable because it is in gear. ETM is probabably bad. Even though it is dated 2010, you can still have a worn etm. Do you have another MAF to swap out and test with? Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing about the issue occurring in gear as well. Shame, drives perfectly otherwise . As for the MAF, I can swap the airbox lid from the Wife's XC to confirm . May try cleaning the original ETM and reinstalling it, just to see what happens. Was very dirty, but I'm not convinced just being dirty will cause a limp home condition during EVERY drive cycle (especially while maintaining perfect idle). Heck, the idle usually goes to crap long before limp home mode... Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted August 19, 2012 Report Share Posted August 19, 2012 joe, not true. my original etm from my 99 xc70 had fine idle, just fell on its face when i gassed it. it actually would not go past idle. yeah the whole dirty thing is a pipe dream. think about it, the idle position would have no wear only the section at part throttle to lets say 3500 rpm should get the worst wear. if you look at my pictures you will see what i mean. here are pictures of my bad etm contact strips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 You can't just swap ETMs from one car to another, they are VIN programmed, most likely you need a dealer to reload the ETM software. You can try pulling fuse #23 (S60) ECMcoil might be different for your model and see if it resets the ETM, if doesn't help, then you need the software update. Sorry friend this is not correct. Many here, including myself have swapped ETM's without issue. As mentioned above the only guidelines are N/A to N/A and turbo to turbo. Model and engine size do not matter. Joe, just replied to your PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted September 8, 2012 Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 OP did you ever fix this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted September 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 Hello again, Funny you should ask, as I was just working on it last night. Had the car connected to VIDA a few weeks ago and ran the ETM sweep test on the replacement unit. Was only .42° difference between the sensors on two runs of the test. For giggles, I cleaned and connected the original ETM and ran the test twice on it also. 1.2° maximum difference the first run, and only .34° on the second run. So, according to Volvo, the original ETM was fine as well... It WAS very dirty when removed, so I figured I'd try to reinstall it and see if the vacuum fluctuation and cruise issues went away. Reinstalled it last night, acted up right away (didn't even get out of the driveway). Drivable now, was almost constant limp-home before cleaning. Still have intermittent limp home condition and bucking though (even though VIDA shows the ETM is good ). Haven't put enough mileage on it to see if the cruise is more reliable, but the vacuum SEEMS more stable than with the newer ETM. Time will tell I guess. So, that's where I'm at . Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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