adamdrives Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Hey Guys, Somehow, in all the timing belts I've done, this has only come up once before as a big issue. But, as it stands, I cannot find a reasonable way (short of using a chisel) to break loose the big t40 bolt that holds the tbelt tensioner pulley on. I did get it off once with a jerry rigged vise grip around a flat head screwdriver bit with my friend keeping the whole thing under pressure with a pry bar, but there has got to be a nicer way. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 You need a stubby head socket wrench and a short section of pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 It was on an 850, and there was no way that thing was coming off with the limited space and leverage available. I ended up cutting a whole in the wheel well so I could use a long extension and ratchet to remove it. I used a rubber freeze plug to close the whole back up for future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 like this one-------^ and a section pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 My Rube Goldberg setup consists of a socket like this..... I put an extra long 8mm box wrench on the 6 sided section of the socket and use a prybar to hold the socket tightly against the tensioner while I loosen the bolt. It's never failed yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Sorry to contribute nothing to this thread but isn't the 850 tensioner held on by 2 12mm bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Tensioner Pulley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I've got a set of Lisle torx sockets that make this job easy. They are a cast design and are very compact, probably 3/4" total length, perhaps a tad shorter, add a 3/8 breaker bar and you are done. There are probably others that make this same type of socket, they are throw-away should you ever deform the tip. My Snap-On torx drivers are far too long to fit and the space is too tight to do much in the way of creative rigging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I went through this about 6 months back... The options all have been listed here really...but just to reiterate; 1. Drill a hole through the wheel well...probably the best if you plan on doing the T-Belt ever again....And if you put a grommet/covering you won't have to worry. 2. Start soaking it in PB...everyday...for a week...after you grind on it for an hour or two....then what i did was try the socket in there....but low and behold you can barely get it in there, mostly due to garbage or dirt within. If you poke up and strip it very easily because the thing is on there factory tight (as mine was..never had been replaced on the engine/car on a 93 engine...), which i imagine you will have already stripped if things do go sour....so what i ended up trying; a. Grab a 1/4 inch little boxed end wrench, take the T40 torx bit OUT of its socket, place it within this, and try. Use a blue papertowel or something to keep the thing from flying out if you need. This is great if your socket just won't give you the clearnace. b. Use vice grips on the T40 torx bit. i clamped that mofo as hard as i could, then used the vice. NOTE: This is what eventually worked, but only because of the next statement; c. Get an engine hoist or a way to lift the engine. My lower engine mount was toast, but, by lifting the engine up some you get more room, AND if your front engine mount was toast like mine was, you can actually get straight in the hole instead of at a downwards angle...there just isn't enough room. After soaking that mofo in days of PBblaster and eventually getting to this method, it broke free....no hole in the fender well, but i was nearly minutes away from doing it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
831t5r Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Its a torx 45. Just take a 3/8 t45 socket. Remove the bit from the socket and cut it doen. Then just use a 3/8 ratchet and the socket with cut down bit to break it loose. May need to put a pry bar behind the ratchet to keep it straight. What some of us do at work and it works everytime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I use an L-shaped torx, from a cheap set I got at the autoparts store. Slip a thin pipe over the end for leverage, then using your other hand lever the L against the engine with a pry bar. *click* ... works every time. Never really use it for anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 I went through this on my 94, i ended up taking a carbide tip and die grinder to it and it was off in 10 minutes. The heat generated by the grinding must have broke the bolt loose cause once the tensioner was off the bolt was finger loose....better alternative then drilling a hole in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamdrives Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Thanks for all the input guys. I have a few options now. I'll let you know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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