S80T6P_T_M Posted October 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Okay so I'm going for a cam lock tool that locks the cams in the rear during the installation?? Going to look for it today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98glt-5 Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 Yes, you can pull the cams without it, just make sure the bottom end is TDC just to make things a little easier. Tool looks like this (or some variant of it) http://media.photobucket.com/image/volvo%20cam%20lock%20tool/DOMER94/volvocamsealrepair002.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Update: here's where I am I have torn everything off the head except the cam covers. I removed all 6 plugs and they all had water in the cylinders. The very disturbing part is that the head was so hot the plastic plug cover began to melt.. with water in all cylinders is it feasible to continue with a head gasket job? I am positive where the leak is coming from but if the head was that hot it would be a blessing if the head is not ruined. I could continue taking the head off and take it to get checked. But if it's no good it makes me wonder if the block survived. What do you guys think.? I'm well on my way to having the head off but I don't want to waste time with a head that's crap. But there's only 1 way to find out and that's to take it to the machine shop. Any suggestions an advice is greatly appreciated thank you all.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Jesus... I would doubt that the head survived, but the machine shop will be able to tell you if it's too warped to be machined flat again. Blocks usually survive blown head gaskets, but there is probably a limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S8ET6 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Update: here's where I am I have torn everything off the head except the cam covers. I removed all 6 plugs and they all had water in the cylinders. The very disturbing part is that the head was so hot the plastic plug cover began to melt.. with water in all cylinders is it feasible to continue with a head gasket job? I am positive where the leak is coming from but if the head was that hot it would be a blessing if the head is not ruined. I could continue taking the head off and take it to get checked. But if it's no good it makes me wonder if the block survived. What do you guys think.? I'm well on my way to having the head off but I don't want to waste time with a head that's crap. But there's only 1 way to find out and that's to take it to the machine shop. Any suggestions an advice is greatly appreciated thank you all.... The head has to come off in order to have it inspected and in order to inspect the block. The fact the your plastic melted doesn't mean much in this case. If it makes you feel any better, I melted my cover too and the head had several microscopic cracks but the block was still sound. Keep going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks .. I will keep going.. where are the timing marks for the crank?? Are they on the balance plate or the crank gear/pump?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S8ET6 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanks .. I will keep going.. where are the timing marks for the crank?? Are they on the balance plate or the crank gear/pump?? You gotta pull the balancer in order to see the marks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 On that step now.. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 S8ET6.. How much did a new head run you?? I found a few complete engines but was wondering how much a good head would run?? If I can find one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S8ET6 Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 S8ET6.. How much did a new head run you?? I found a few complete engines but was wondering how much a good head would run?? If I can find one. JVC cut me a great deal on the motor from his S80T6 when he parted it out. However, the machine shop was gonna charge about $400 to repair the cracks that my original head had from overheating and another $400 for new guides, valve job, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I would say just grab a full block rather than hoping the current one is still good, considering that it got hot enough to melt the plugs. I bought a car that overheated and blew the head, and melted the plugs. I replaced the head, thinking its all good. Nope. Now I'm swapping in a m56 and putting in a whole new engine. It was a costly mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 I was just wondering because if its going to be 800 for a head i may as well swap the engine,,, I found what i think is a good deal on a motor that I can hear run, which runs good, with 50,000 less mile on it.. I would do that before dumping almost 800 on a head,, so I guess I will see what works out best..thanksBTW it was only the plug cover that melted.. Not that that makes it better but not the plugs.. hoping for a miracle here but if not, I have to get the new motor... I love the car too much now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenS Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Just for a reference I blew a head gasket on my 2004 s60 and warped the head. I didn't have any crack though. Basically I spend 430 at the machine shop (straightening, resurface, cleaning, testing, and valve job along with some guide rod work), bought a new pcv for about 130, new thermostat housing gasket 9, got a cheap gasket kit for about 105+shipping, and I still need oil, coolant, sealer for the cam cover, and moly grease... I also spent money on tools as I went. It was worth the money and trouble for me because I've been wanting to take an engine apart for a while now. The experience has been invaluable. It will definitely be more cost efficient to swap the engine in your case though I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S80T6P_T_M Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 UPDATE: It’s been a good while since I had time to work on the T6 between work family and school... I had the time this weekend to get the head off and see what I’m working with. It was not as bad as anyone would think just by looking at the job, but I would say I’m a good 5 to 6 hours in. he head is off to the machine shop and I only had time to do a quick clean up on the block and head so far to check things out. I have a link below to the outcome of what I found. I will organize and sort them later but they are all there of what I was able to take. The removal was not bad even though I skipped around a few steps such as removing the turbos, cats and coolant pipe... The two tight spots were the last 3 bolts driver side on manifold #2 and the two bolts where the coolant pipe connects to the head... none the less I got them out with detemination and about 10 minutes each... I planned on getting a HG kit only but after the removal I discovered that the water pump does not turn freely and also squeaks, so I will replace it along with a timing belt kit... I do have timing questions for when I reinstall the head cams and etc... I basically want to make sure I have the block at TDC and start from 0 and set the timing up right... just want to make sure its right and set the VVT up correctly... Check out the pics and please leave advice and suggestions... Thanks https://plus.google.com/photos/111557142435801042984/albums/5812552975540094097 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S8ET6 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 I planned on getting a HG kit only but after the removal I discovered that the water pump does not turn freely and also squeaks, so I will replace it along with a timing belt kit... I do have timing questions for when I reinstall the head cams and etc... I basically want to make sure I have the block at TDC and start from 0 and set the timing up right... just want to make sure its right and set the VVT up correctly... Check out the pics and please leave advice and suggestions... Thanks To get the block in the correct position, you will need to remove the plug located in the block behind the starter and insert a 6" or longer 3/8 drive socket extention into the hole. Then rotate the crank slowly until it locks into position (The piston will be several degrees before TDC). To set the cams up and torque everything down correctly, you will need to purchase the volvo cam locking tool: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=volvo+camshaft+tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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