toml77 Posted October 28, 2012 Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 I am in the process of replacing the head gasket on a 2000 S70 Turbo with 130.000 miles on the clock. It has had a slow coolent leak for the past few months and eventually overheated and now I am getting coolent into cylinders 4 & 5. I have removed the head ahd purchased a full gasket kit which has new valve guide seals. I was planning to clean the head and do a (hand type) valve job before reassembling it. Compression was good, it did not burn any oil between (5K) changes, and the engine is quite clean (except for varnish) for its age. I do not have a tool to remove the valve keepers and it looks like I need to use and extention on an old "C" type compressor because of the recess and lack of clearence around the valve springs. Am I overdoing it??? Do I really need to go to the trouble of removing all 20 valves just to do a hand lap and replace the seals?? I only use the car for winter, keeping my new S60-T5 off the road for a few years. Thanks for any replies/opinions/suggestions. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 I lapped my valves and did the stem seals, took me a couple hours at the kitchen table. The peace of mind was well worth it, but I don't know if the valves really needed it. The stem seals are something you definitely want to do with the head off however. They get very brittle and are a common oil-burning point for these cars once they hit about 200k. If you've got it open now, why not. I used this tool: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4572-Large-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000F5ECUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351551022&sr=8-1&keywords=valve+spring+compressor It worked great, and Amazon even let me return it afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I wouldn't even think of putting that head back on without replacing the seals. Plus when you take all the valves out you can clean the carbon off them as well. When I do head gaskets I don't lap in the old valves, only do that when I'm installing new valves. If you don't feel comfortable doing the work yourself I don't think a head shop would charge you an arm and a leg to replace the seals and check the head for imperfections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Replace the seals! Mine leaks terribly now at 192k and actually prompted me to just do an entire engine swap :blink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toml77 Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thanks for the tips and encouragement. The head is totally dissembled. I modified an old pair of needle nose pliers to pull the seals and made an adapter for my "C" type valve spring compressor. The head is within spec for lengthwise warpage (0.010"). Spec is .50mm. (0.020"). So I am going to clean it up, lap the valves, install new seals and slap her back together. Winter is coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I use an old c-clamp and a small peice of PVC with a hole cut into the side. One side goes on the valve and then the other on the spring retainer. Clamp it down and extract the keepers with a magnet. Works well for free! Just thought I would add that for anyone seeing this topic later. Glad that you were able to strip it down. It's a wise idea to do the valve stem seals now rather then later. Although I've never had valve stem seals fail on me. I've had tons of these vehicles with 200k-300k and not a single bad valve stem seal. Knock on wood!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 ^^^interesting you've had the super high mileage ones with no issues, must be luck or the P/O used the "right" blend of oils in it's past life (we'll never know) I used a deep 10mm socket to press the new stem seals in. A few taps and they should seat just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toml77 Posted November 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 "Got-her-done" Doing the actual valve job was a piece of cake compared to putting the thing back together. The directions for timing the VVT exhaust cam are not straight forward. With the cams locked in place with the "tool" I could not wind the spring enough to get the mark on the sproket to line up with the cover. I may be one notch off. I haven't taken it on the road yet but it started right up and idled great. Road test tomorrow to see if I got the turbo vacuum connections right. Oh, I found the broken vacuum line that has been causing a P0442 for a long time. It was a split in the 2" piece of vacuum hose connecting the purge valve to the hard line going back to the charcoal canester. Finally no more CEL!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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