lookforjoe Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 TMM9 - please excuse the diversion.. Can you write volvo part number of XC plate and what front sway bar are you use?? 9480184. IPD sway bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussianRvolvo Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 TMM9 - please excuse the diversion.. 9480184. IPD sway bar Thank you What size IPD sway bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thank you What size IPD sway bar? Same as yours. AWD 25/25 104573 kit. Bought it about six years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 How much did the plates cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 How much did the plates cost? About $20, back when I bought them. The online webstore has them for about $29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussianRvolvo Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 How much did the plates cost? In Russia about 100$ for pair((( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 In Russia about 100$ for pair((( In America they are about 10$ for a pair in a local junk yard on any 99 and newer S70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 The last 20 minutes will take you 2 days. I don't know if that's a saying, but in my case it sure applies. I got my re-balanced turbo rotating assembly back from GPopShop, and in the process of changing it out I broke the compressor side dynamic sealing ring (the C clip on the thrust waster). I ended up buying a full rebuild, something I should have just done in the beginning, and got the turbo in the car yesterday. The last thing to do was add coolant, but after the first two gallons I was wondering why the coolant reservoir was still empty. I jumped in the car and found my heater hose connection had come undone and there was 2 gallons on the floor. FML. I called it a night and got an early start at it this morning. I took out the carpets and did a full power wash to get everything out. I guess it needed a full interior detail anyways... Everything is ready to go, but I'm not getting spark. I found my cam position sensor had a severed wire on the engine bay side so I fixed that. Still no spark. I've been working through my 'Bosch EZK' troubleshooting worksheet and haven't found any problems. I've tried 2 ECUs and looked everything over thoroughly, hopefully I can figure it out tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm curious as to how the firewall connector dislodged - I think some one else also had that issue - I've just never seen it or understood how it could just happen. Did you double check the other connectors to make sure they are connected properly? Crank sensor, etc. I recall someone had the iac and TPS reversed, etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm running through the wiring diagram now, double checking everything. One thing I'm curious about is a unused connector. It comes out near the cam/crank/O2 sensor, it's grey, 2 pin, GN-Y and GN-V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 that's the reverse light connector for the automatic trans. if iirc. mines just dangling. i take that back...i know it goes to something on the auto trans...i might be wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Damn, still no luck. I triple checked all connections, although there aren't really that many. I tried to run an XRAM dump from the ECU to see if I could pull any codes; it connects but then drops comms after just a frame or two. Weird, although I've had this problem in cars that were running, so nothing definitive there. My next move is to test continuity between the ECU and all relevant plugs, not something I'm looking forward to doing, but I don't know what else to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Circuit tested the coil/power stage feed / ground / pulse? knock sensors correctly hooked up? Try another crank sensor? If the car was running before, should n't be anything too nuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) TCV and crank can get mixed up................ ...and the grey connector you're referring to is definitely auto trans. Just checked mine. Edited March 17, 2014 by mattwebb502 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Cool, I'll cut that connector off. I traced all the wire colors and I'm sure everything is plugged into the right connectors, thanks for the suggestion though. Circuit tested the coil/power stage feed / ground / pulse? knock sensors correctly hooked up? Try another crank sensor? If the car was running before, should n't be anything too nuts... Do you have any documentation for additional testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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