Tightmopedman9 Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I'll be dynoing it in two weeks, until that time I'll just say, it is decently quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 If you want to keep the boost in the over 22-23 psi range the 15lb spring makes more sense. You just won't be able to run less than 17 base most likely what kind of WHP do you think youre running? ive heard 400 whp is about the limit for these motors, but im wondering if that still applies with proper tuning? What do you mean by these motors ? Stock hardware? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 45 minutes before the scheduled dyno time and I bent a rod. I had been trying to figure out why after hitting target boost I couldn't maintain anything above wastegate boost. My goal was to hold 23psi to redline, but after reaching the target boost I wouldn't be able to maintain boost above 18-19psi. I swapped wastegate springs, adjusted pre-load and even coded a new boost control, all with the same results. A friend, Tighe, had a SNABB TCV lying around so I figured I'd see if perhaps my TCV was responsible. I hooked it up according to IPD's instructions, not knowing that IPD and SNABB/ARD's valves are the opposite of each other. I could have easily determined the correct configuration just by blowing, but I was trying to get it ready for the dyno. I got two fellow Volvo'ers in the car and mashed on the throttle as soon as the oil got up to temp. I wasn't logging at the time, but at around 4500 RPM I felt the strongest bout of knock I've ever witnessed; I immediately knew I bent a rod. Based on the peak function of my electronic boost gauge I hit 31 psi. It is a bit slow to respond (~10Hz) so I wouldn't be surprised if I actually went over 31psi. After I let the engine cool I played with the wastegate and found the the flapper would actually stick open unless jiggled. I found this thread in which the same issue was fixed with a simple circlip. I have a lead on another 2.3L which I will be putting in as soon as possible. Hopefully I can have it all back together by the end of the week, but that hinges on a lot of variables. For the record, my fastest recorded 60-100MPH was 5.8 seconds, and this was with peak boost of 23psi and wastegate boost afterwards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Napat Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 that sucks, Is this with an H-beamrod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S70-R Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 One more engine man... that's hard! What a single and small mistake can do! Best of luck for the new build and don't forget to hook up the TCV correctly About the boost fade you were having. Did you check CBV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Dang. I saw that on FB, but assumed it was your old motor. This one was stock rods, though, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Stock rods, yes. The lack of boost was definitely due to the sticky wastegate. As soon as the wastegate would open it would be unable to close and would revert to fully open wastegate pressure.The synchronic valve holds boost perfectly. On an interesting note, I drove the car 350 miles today and cruising with the radio up you'd be hard pressed to notice a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Napat Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 (edited) On an interesting note, I drove the car 350 miles today and cruising with the radio up you'd be hard pressed to notice a difference. I also had this rod bending noise for like 5 times in the past 3 years. The noise became quiet and eventually stop after some runs or maybe only a couple of days, engine is still running fine. Edited April 27, 2014 by Napat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850wagonT5 Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Stock rods handle 25psi just fine. Boost onset needs to be gradual, that's all. Hope you get her back together soon and get to the dyno! Not sure what you were running for boost control, but I had bypassed the TCV a long time ago on the last car...went to a new Garrett 17psi WGA and ran straight off that. No fade at all, ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafa_bmx Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 45 minutes before the scheduled dyno time and I bent a rod. I had been trying to figure out why after hitting target boost I couldn't maintain anything above wastegate boost. My goal was to hold 23psi to redline, but after reaching the target boost I wouldn't be able to maintain boost above 18-19psi. I swapped wastegate springs, adjusted pre-load and even coded a new boost control, all with the same results. A friend, Tighe, had a SNABB TCV lying around so I figured I'd see if perhaps my TCV was responsible. I hooked it up according to IPD's instructions, not knowing that IPD and SNABB/ARD's valves are the opposite of each other. I could have easily determined the correct configuration just by blowing, but I was trying to get it ready for the dyno. I got two fellow Volvo'ers in the car and mashed on the throttle as soon as the oil got up to temp. I wasn't logging at the time, but at around 4500 RPM I felt the strongest bout of knock I've ever witnessed; I immediately knew I bent a rod. Based on the peak function of my electronic boost gauge I hit 31 psi. It is a bit slow to respond (~10Hz) so I wouldn't be surprised if I actually went over 31psi. After I let the engine cool I played with the wastegate and found the the flapper would actually stick open unless jiggled. I found this thread in which the same issue was fixed with a simple circlip. I have a lead on another 2.3L which I will be putting in as soon as possible. Hopefully I can have it all back together by the end of the week, but that hinges on a lot of variables. For the record, my fastest recorded 60-100MPH was 5.8 seconds, and this was with peak boost of 23psi and wastegate boost afterwards. could you explain me this sentence ? what you want to say with ''valves are opposite of each other'' '?? best regards and good luck mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S70-R Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 could you explain me this sentence ? what you want to say with ''valves are opposite of each other'' '?? best regards and good luck mate! The inlet and oulet vaccum nipples are in opposite sides of the valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Damn, bad luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafa_bmx Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 The inlet and oulet vaccum nipples are in opposite sides of the valve. but if the valve is a piston valve what is the difference? if it works like the original one, there is no problem.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 ARD: Left(2) Wastegate Middle(3) Compressor Right(1) Vent IPD: Left(2) Wastegate Middle(3) Vent Right(1) compressor If he hooked an ARD up as per IPD instructions, then the wastegate was tied to the correct port but compressor and vent were mixed up... so the simplified explanation was that the WG was valved to atmosphere rather than the system pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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