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Another Rn + 20G, My 'build' Thread


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I checked out the only 2.3 long block my local Volvo shop had. It was a 99 with 150k. In every cylinder it had noticeable smooth spots on both sides of the cylinder wall. I decided not to buy it, even though they only wanted $150 (last long block was $100).

I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glyco sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial?

Edited by Tightmopedman9
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I've decided that I'm going to go with forged rods and glycol sputtered bearings. To any Volvo parts gurus out there, can you determine the rod length from the engine serial?

The parts catalog (use C70 to look up, as it still had 2.3L, catalog page usually is the same however) only lists the con rod by year - 2002 on is listed as the change, but it also says B5234Tx & B5244Tx - I didn't think the 2.4 had the 147mm rods...

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I'm really crossing my fingers that the crank and block are salvageable. I plan on buying all the parts I need to fix it (HG, rods, bearings, bolts etc.) and then taking off the pan and inspecting the crank. If the crank looks fine I'll take off the head. If either doesn't check out I'll get the block from the local Volvo shop, hone it, re-ring it and install the rods and bearings and swap it in.

Since this is my DD I can't afford to take it apart before I have the parts in my hands ready to go.

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a little extra leg work, but not the end of the world to pull the pan off, inspect, and slide it back together. At least then you'd know where you stand...

Compression tested it yet?

Have on hand to lend:

bore gauge, 3-4 mic, 1-2 mic, gauge blocks, 220 grit ball hone & oil, etc, etc, etc

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Wow, thanks for the offer. However, I'm really trying to avoid any more work than the minimal amount required, maybe not the best idea, but we'll see how it turns out. I plan on just swapping in the rods, checking the bearing clearances and calling it a day.

However, no matter what I'm doing, I'm going to replace the rods and the rod bearings. So regardless if this block is toast or not all the parts I'm buying I'll still need.

I plan to do all of this with the engine still in the car, so I don't think I'll have enough space to check the crank for out of round.

Since the turbo is coming out I figure it would be a good time to update the compressor wheel. According to a patent application I read from Garrett they say that extended tip compressor wheels significantly expand the width of a compressor map, greatly diminishing surge. This was a big problem I've had from day one with the 20G. If I keep the wastegate shut until my boost target I'll be in surge from 3500-4000RPM. Not a big deal if I'm in 1st-3rd, but it makes it impossible to floor it unless I'm in 4th at a high speed.

Another benefit is that extended tip wheels flow around 50HP more than their shorter counterparts. I haven't seen any empirical evidence to support these claims, but they seem reasonable enough to believe. With countless logs of my spoolup time and surge areas I'll be able to make a definite conclusion of the effect of 'XTR' wheels.

XTR%2020G.jpg

Edited by Tightmopedman9
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