boxpin Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 My new engine is broken in and I am finally able to get on it. I am very happy with the power but my brand new R clutch cannot hold the power. I need something stronger. What options are there? (in the back of my mind I am wondering if the cyro treatment actually changed the properties of the clutch tension.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Spec, bulley or southbend. Popular combo in Sweden is the sachs 707 plate and r clutch disc What kinda power are you putting down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I dont know. Its a new engine with about 700miles on it. I'll get it dyno'ed eventually but not yet. Yesterday I had to teach a ricer a lesson and in third gear I could feel that slip(that rpm drop) for a sec before it grabbed and went Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 From what I've read it seems that most Sach pressure plates for a 240mm disk will work. The 707 one of them, however, may not be the least expensive. Taken from this thread on TB: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=208916&page=6 So the -618 pressure plate (BMW M3, 228mm clutch disc, this one fits in a M46 bellhousing for sure) - organic disc: 450 Nm / 333 lb/ft - sintered disc: 530 Nm / 392 lb/ft The -707 Audi pressure plate (240mm disc) - organic disc: 520 Nm / 385 lb/ft - sintered disc: 615 Nm / 455 lb/ft The -765 pressure plate (BMW M5, 240mm clutch disc) - organic disc: 590 Nm / 437 lb/ft - sintered disc: 700 Nm / 518 lb/ft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I dont know. Its a new engine with about 700miles on it. I'll get it dyno'ed eventually but not yet. Yesterday I had to teach a ricer a lesson and in third gear I could feel that slip(that rpm drop) for a sec before it grabbed and went Shouldn't be slipping - what is the rated HP/Tq for the blue tune? Don't you mean rpm increase? If the clutch slipped, the rpm's would have risen significantly at the shift point while road speed did not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 From what I've read it seems that most Sach pressure plates for a 240mm disk will work. The 707 one of them, however, may not be the least expensive. Taken from this thread on TB: http://forums.turbob...t=208916&page=6 that thread is discussing rwd clutch setups, different flywheel, different input shaft lengths, etc...not really a thread you should be looking for info on a fwd clutch setup. Shouldn't be slipping - what is the rated HP/Tq for the blue tune? Don't you mean rpm increase? If the clutch slipped, the rpm's would have risen significantly at the shift point while road speed did not I agree, i used a brand new r clutch with my motor making 405ft/lbs and i didnt have any slipping, i broke the clutch in properly and never slipped it and never had an issue, seems like lately everyone is complaining about r clutches slipping. Lots of good and bad said about spec( i personally have had 1 bad experience and 2 good), same deal with southbend clutches, it seems the only real one that seems to be garunteed to work and hold power is the sachs 707 but thats spendy and hard to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 that thread is discussing rwd clutch setups, different flywheel, different input shaft lengths, etc...not really a thread you should be looking for info on a fwd clutch setup. They both use the same clutch size, 240mm, I was only talking about pressure plates so the input shaft doesn't matter. They talk about using the Sach 707 plate without shims, so I'm assuming that the distance from the springs on the pressure plate to the throw out bearing are the same. The only thing that seems an unknown is how much room is allowed by the bell housing, and from the time I saw a M46 the bell housing seemed smaller than the M56. However, that was a while ago so I'm not too confident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 If the clutch slipped, the rpm's would have risen significantly at the shift point while road speed did not The RPM's are already high from the previous gear. When I shift the rpms come down gradually and the car is not pulling.Then you can tell its grabbed and the car pulls again. I am not slipping after its grabbed but its struggling to stop the disk from spinning. Short explanation...I am not barking the tires when shifting. I am curious if there is any possibility that my throw out bearing is not disengaging all the way. Hmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I agree, i used a brand new r clutch with my motor making 405ft/lbs and i didnt have any slipping, i broke the clutch in properly and never slipped it and never had an issue, seems like lately everyone is complaining about r clutches slipping. No complaints here. I've put 15k miles on my R clutch and still holding fine. The RPM's are already high from the previous gear. When I shift the rpms come down gradually and the car is not pulling.Then you can tell its grabbed and the car pulls again. I am not slipping after its grabbed but its struggling to stop the disk from spinning. Short explanation...I am not barking the tires when shifting. I am curious if there is any possibility that my throw out bearing is not disengaging all the way. Hmmm. Doesn't sound like a clutch issue. Like Hussein said, a slipping clutch would cause the rpm's to rise when the clutch slipped. Sounds more like a engine performance problem. Boost gauge looks normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fischmama Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I've had that issue too. Its almost like a bog going from 2-3rd. I blamed it on the clutch as well. Got me a SPEC Stage 3+ and never had the problem again. I did remove the motor though too so, if this was another issue, I don't know what it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted November 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Sounds more like a engine performance problem. Boost gauge looks normal? Engine? It goes like a bat-out-of-hell when it catches. It is the clutch. Spec part number?? SPEC-SO133 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow95 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Have to agree. A clutch slipping cant make the rpm's decrease. Just think about that a minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 I am running an R clutch on my build also and have about a year on it now, no slipping. I am running 330hp / 340tq at the wheels, and I race the car. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White 850R Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Nothing but positive reviews for me here as well. I have a 50 trim, and drive it everyday through traffic, it's been about 6-7000 miles already no issues what so ever. I'm not to easy on it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 Engine? It goes like a bat-out-of-hell when it catches. It is the clutch. Spec part number?? SPEC-SO133 SO133F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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