Archdukeferdinand Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Traded away one of my jeeps for a 1999 s70 today, haven't owned a volvo in 15 years. 204,000 on the clock, N/A, auto trans, seems to be in good general order. Timing belt was done by previous-previous owner, is about due for another one by service interval though it doesn't run rough or slop during deceleration or anything like that. ETM is a yellow-label (I think that means replaced) version and throttle response seems perfectly normal. Probably remove and clean just for good habit's sake. Drivers side door doesn't open from inside or out. Transmission shifts smoothly, doesn't seem to slip or shift harshly. There's a slight roar/grinding noise coming from the front, sounding more pronounced to the passenger side. Judging by pedal travel and steering feedback my assumption is badly worn pads and possibly a warped rotor. I'm sure I'll find out... Slight amount of vapor coming from engine oil dipstick- Cleaning the PCV system is just around the corner. Anything else I should really be looking out for? Anyone have bright ideas on the door? I'm going to do as much as I can to pull the panel from the inside... Oh, there's a radiator light and a CEL on. PO thinks it's a sensor. I'm hoping it's the sensor at the reservoir, given that fluid volume was good and the temps stayed WNL on the test drive, I'm inclined to believe so until I can get more into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwells114 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Sounds like a good deal to me. Yes, change timing belt and water pump while you are in that area. Door sounds like latch, pretty easy, remove inside panel, two bolts holding latch assembly. Same issue I had on my 2000 V70. I also had to change the sensor on the coolant tank. If I remember correctly, it just pulls out the bottom of the tank, easy-peasy. All other issues you see, sounds like you've identified the correct solution. Knock on wood, my 2000 V70 NA seems to be bullet proof. 210,000 miles and all I do is normal maintenance and periodic minor repairs. Good luck, Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 - Change out the ATF 3-4 times (drain or pump out) make sure it's the regular 4spd that takes whatever ATF and not the 5spd that takes 3309 fluid (type-4) I can't remember which N/As had the 5spd. - Timing belt and water pump along with idler and tensioner should be done every 105K (water pump every other change) - Pull the codes for the CEL, it's not the coolant level senor. - When cleaning the ETM be very careful with it, as in wet a rag with carb/brake cleaner and scrub it. Do NOT spray it with anything or you can kill it easy. - Also, all ETM's will fail, yellow or white. You can check the date code on it to get a rough idea how long it's been in there. At least it's not original (although that would be near impossible) - Replace PCV hoses so they don't clog again! you might be able to clean some parts but that all depends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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