Boxman Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 With my newly built engine (B5234T), I now still have the engine outside the car and I would like circulate some oil through the engine to make sure the oil pump is functioning correctly. So I filled the engine up with oil (on the stand) and cranked it with a big wrench several times - though no oil is coming through. The pump is not sucking in any oil from the sump as I assume there's a big air lock in the sump pick up hose, and the oil pump simply doesn't pump air as it's designed for pumping oil. So right now no oil is coming through. Does anybody know how to properly prime the oil pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted November 30, 2012 Report Share Posted November 30, 2012 Search the net my friend! You'll need more than wrench / perhaps an compressor & air gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 There is no reason for the pump to have failed. These pumps really don't go bad - not true for the "new" replacement units from Volvo, judging from the failures experienced by UK forum members. Did you refresh it with all new seals though? You will need to crank the motor up to at least 600-700 rpm to generate pressure, so why bother? When you install the motor, you will be cranking with coil & injectors disconnected until the OP light goes out anyway. Also did you fill the motor with 6.6quarts? It takes more when it's been rebuilt than on an oil change... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 I am assuming you used assembly lube when you put this engine together. That will buy you time to build pressure A good little jump start is to fill the oil filter up before you install it Pull the fuel pump fuse (and arrange your coil spark to find ground) Crank away with the starter. Took mine about 10-15 seconds and the oil light went off. Put everything back together and start'er up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 @lookforjoe - the starter motor alone doesn't get it nearly close to 600rpm. I'm faster by hand with my wrench. I also did fill it with about 6.5 liters of oil, and even injected some trough the turbo oil lines - to no avail. @boxpin - no, just clean engine oil. Haynes told me this would do. I did fill the oil filter beforehand. I just need a way to manually fill the oil pump with some oil - if i can do that, i'm golden. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Did some brainstorming today and figured it out. I had a broken (cut off) oil cooling assembly that can be bolted on the oil pan, where usually on non-turbo engines you'd just find a cap. I bolted this assembly on, and attached some hoses so that the top of that would rise above the engine. Then I spent the next half hour squirting in oil through those lines, and waiting for it to settle, basically using gravity to put enough pressure on the oil to run up into the oil pump. This way, through the oil pump, the sump pick up hose would fill up and give the oil pump a column of clean oil to pick up instead of air. When I could fill no further, I took the oil cooling assembly off and instead bolted the standard cap back on there. Then gave the pump a few cranks and now it neatly pumps oil throughout the entire engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 I could be wrong here but I have not heard of anybody mentioning that they had to 'Prime the Pump' after their rebuild. I believe we have all filled with oil and done what I said 3 posts up. You are not going to be able to prime it by hand cranking. Oh, and to add one more thing...keep the plugs out while you do your initial cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 "You are not going to be able to prime it by hand cranking" ...But i just did. It's pumping oil finte now when I hand crank it. Also, yes, when installed and all I'm keeping the plugs out until the oil pressure is OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 "You are not going to be able to prime it by hand cranking" ...But i just did. It's pumping oil finte now when I hand crank it. Excellent, glad to hear now just think how much easier it would have been to just turn the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Exactly how much oil is in the motor now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Excellent, glad to hear now just think how much easier it would have been to just turn the key. Well it only started pumping once I went through the pain of manually getting oil in that pump. Exactly how much oil is in the motor now? About 6 liters I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Well it only started pumping once I went through the pain of manually getting oil in that pump. If you had waited until the motor was installed, it would have primed once the engine was turning over, just takes about a minute. The problem is, you didn't use assembly lube (on any of the bearings or cam journals??) so, it is just as well you manually primed it. Curious how you confirmed oil flow through the cam journals, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 The problem is, you didn't use assembly lube (on any of the bearings or cam journals??) so, it is just as well you manually primed it. Curious how you confirmed oil flow through the cam journals, though. I remember my rebuilt engine wouldn't prime. Turned out to be a poorly fitted oil pump gasket. Anyway. Aside from a bit of engine oil on the bearings it didn't have any assembly lube on it either. Primed it for a long time on the starter (which didn't work) Then it actually ran, idle and a short 1500rpm burst for all in all probably 10-15 secs with 0 oil pressure. After that the oil pump was taken off, refitted, and the next time it primed OK on the starter. Anyway, the engine was far from borked considering it was used pretty well both on the road and many laps of the Nurburgring Morale of the story, these things are pretty tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted December 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 If you had waited until the motor was installed, it would have primed once the engine was turning over, just takes about a minute. The problem is, you didn't use assembly lube (on any of the bearings or cam journals??) so, it is just as well you manually primed it. Curious how you confirmed oil flow through the cam journals, though. I didn't use assembly lube, no, just clean engine oil. It's why I wanted to make sure it pumped oil manually before I lifted the block in. I confirmed flow through the turbo, which is connected to the internal line that runs up to the cams. I'm not sure one can ever confirm flow through the cam journals though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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