Gideon35T Posted December 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Infections are not a concern as they can be treated in house. The majority of infections that is (even pneumonia is typically caused by a bacterial infection). Non-emergency care that cannot be treated in house is a pretty few and far between concern. I would slot that under the "general buffer" fund I imagine. In that case, a taxi service or friend would come in handy. If it's "non-emergency" then it would stand to reason that there's time to figure something out, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorse Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 Ehhh, I thought like you for awhile. Then I got ball cancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Contrary to popular belief this isn't me - http://gawker.com/5965883/man-shoots-girlfriend-in-the-back-for-not-taking-the-possibility-of-a-zombie-apocalypse-seriously Now that we've had our fun I have an interesting question. Anyone ever heard of creasote issues with wood that was involved in a forest fire? I live near where a bunch of Arizona was burning last year. The vast majority of the wood I have for my wood stove comes from the trees that were in that fire. Now, the fire moved through so fast that even small branches are unburnt. What killed them was the sap flash boiling. My issue is that burning this wood is filling my pipes with creasote. The wood is well dried (since I live in AZ only 1 season is needed) and all the ends are cracked. But I keep having a serious creasote build up issue. Anyone ever heard of this problem with wood that was involved in a forest fire? The house is heated solely with a woodstove and thermoelectic blower so shutting it down for servicing would be a pain. I'd need to run a chimney sweep log about every week to keep it clear enough to burn. I could switch to coal but it eats away at the piping so I'm not a huge fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 i wont burn pine for those reasons. can't answer the forest fire part of the question, but i burn around 6-8 cords a winter season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 I don't burn pine with the exception of a very small bit of several year old dry stuff for kindling. It's mostly oak and ash. It's the craziest problem. Makes me wonder if the sap and other moisture particles crystalized in the wood or something and aren't exiting during the drying process. Another culprit which I turned up in my research is that having the gases cool too quickly due to single wall piping can cause extra buildup. I have about 9' of single wall piping on the exterior of the house but ambient temps right now don't even drop below 40 at night and the fire is typically started with outside temps around 55. It's funny, I've put a lot of thought into backup systems for all of the houses subsystems but don't really have anything for a wood stove issue to resolve my heeting needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyfishing3 Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 how is single wall to code? i have triple and i'm nervous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Isn't a primary cause of creasote not having a hot enough fire, and not so much based on the wood as many people believe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 18"+ from combustable materials so it's techincally alright. Code will depend on what your area adopts for ICC codes. It's different regionally and incorporated townships have the option to adopt newer codes. Anyways, it goes through a stainless steel thimble which is mounted into a larger stainless thimble which is mounted into an aluminum frame. Only the center thimble gets warm even with a roaring fire. Everything else stays cool to the touch regardless of nurn intensity or duration. I spent a bit of time designing it, haha. Isn't a primary cause of creasote not having a hot enough fire, and not so much based on the wood as many people believe? The better the burn the less the creasote as secondary gases get burned too. It's one of the reason catalytic reburners are such a good thing. There's several contributing factors really. However, my issue is present regardless of how I control the burn. Plenty of air and the damper completely open gives me the same results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Have you thought about solar hot water collection? You could use it for radiant heating in the floors. Another thing I have been thinking about is trying to make a hot water collector heated by compost piles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Isn't a primary cause of creasote not having a hot enough fire. Or shitty wood. Either way, its not a party till you burn your house down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Have you thought about solar hot water collection? You could use it for radiant heating in the floors. Another thing I have been thinking about is trying to make a hot water collector heated by compost piles. I thought about it but I'm unable to design a system that doesn't require a pump. I've designed everything to have as few failure points as possible. I mean, I could just build it and buy a bunch of back up pumps but there's still concern of water damage. It's certainly a possibility but not on the agenda at the moment as there's simply too much other stuff to do, haha. Mind you, hot water for showers and such is heated by the sun for most of the year in a batch hot water system I built from an old electric water heater. Or shitty wood. Either way, its not a party till you burn your house down. I think the wood from trees that died in the fire is my bad wood problem. As I've been rotating through the cords of wood which all came from different places and have had different drying times but all died in that fire or earlier. I'd like to avoid the house burning down thing if possible. It's just that it would be really inconvienent and I'm not sure I'd have time to let the girlfriend out of her crate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Oh, I didn't address the compost pile water heating thing. Well, let's see. A compost pile should be between 130-140f for optimal activity. The most efficient water heating of floors happens with 125f water. So, you'd need to transport the water from your compost pile(s) to your flooring with a temperature drop of 5 to 15 degrees or less. This assumes that your compost pile stays sufficiently aerated and moisture content is appropriate. It's certainly an Idea but I wouldn't bank on it working 100% of the time even if you figured out the logistics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-Jm-c9B2_ew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted December 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Interesting! With a very short distance to travel and the right season it worked well. Unfortunately, those temperatures are too high to keep good bacteria alive. So, your pile will stink and not break down fully. Moisture is my big issue here in Arizona. The system still requires pressure too. They appear to be using municiple water which is pump/gravity fed. You'd have to have enough solar to power your pump and enough backups to not worry about failure. Or, you get 0.5psi for each foot of head so you could have a gravity fed system so long as your land and layout permitted it. Wouldn't work for showering indoors though as the water collection point (roof) is only a few feet over your head in the bathroom. So, if it were stored at that height you wouldn't have enough pressure and if it were stored higher you'd have to pump it to that tank anyways. Very interesting idea though. I'm a permies.com member :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted December 5, 2012 Report Share Posted December 5, 2012 Do you have any pressure tanks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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