Stefan Mohammed Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Oops, I guess I was searching D088 instead of do88, no wonder it wasn't showing up. Thanks for the link! No problem man! Glad to be of help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 [Minor Update]: I did another teaser video for iPd's $25,000 build-off. I want to thank Christian Ramnarine for help with the video and Jabari Holder, Fahim Ali and Kevin Khan for general help with the submission. Hope you guys like the vid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 [update]: I'm still busy with school. I've been doing minor stuff on the car since I last posted like working on the electrical system and installing a few things (Delrin subframe bushings, transmission torque mount, etc). I'll post a proper update when I get some more free time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 [Major update]: It's been a long time since posting an update. School and some health problems with close relatives took priority over the last two months and as such I didn't have time to do a lot of work at the car at any given point in time nor did I have time to post updates. All that said, I was able to work on the car in the few days I had some free time and more recently this past week. I'm happy to report that most of the work has been completed on the car. To save some cash I started doing all the electrical work by myself (with the invaluable help of Fahim and Kevin of course) and over time I was able to fix everything in the car minus the high beams and the coolant temperature/tachometer on the DIM; the reverse lights, indicators, sunroof, passenger power windows, central locking system, horn, approach lights, brake lights, air temperature sensor, water temperature sensor, idle air controller, boost control, o2 wideband sensors, turbo timer and other Haltech related features work now. Apart from that I installed CJ's Delrin Subframe Bushings, installed the replacement UR Rear Strut Brace from ViVA Performance, installed my new clock spring and installed a IPD HD Billet Transmission Torque Mount. The throttle pedal was also modified again and it should be easier to depress now; it isn't installed as yet so I'll provide some feedback in a subsequent update. The old Subframe Bushings were in pretty bad condition. One bushing had collapsed and all the other bushings were either torn or allowed too much movement for my liking. I chose CJs Delrin Bushings over the IPD Poly Inserts and/or the HD XC90 bushings because of my long term power goals and the ease of their installation. The fact that others who installed these bushings in P2 cars report minimal increases in NVH also helped me make the decision to get CJ's bushings. The hardest part about the Delrin Bushing Installation was getting the original bushings off without completely dropping the subframe. We dropped one corner of the subframe at a time, weakened each bushing by using a blowtorch (we only burnt the bushing enough so we could weaken the inner walls but not transfer heat to the subframe to weaken it) and finally cut the bushing out with a hacksaw blade to remove each bushing. Each bushing took a little over an hour to remove except for the bushing with the 'pin' that runs from the chassis into the centre of the bushing which is used to locate the subframe on the chassis during subfame re-installation. After that it was a matter of lubricating each bushing (using power steering fluid as a ghetto lubricant) so it could be easier to insert each half of the bushing into the metal sleeve, and then a matter of bolting back everything up and dropping the car. While we were under the car I also noticed that the factory transmission torque mount was completely shot. The small end bushing was literally gone. I still wonder how I didn't see this before but nonetheless, I ordered the IPD HD part to replace it. The IPD part is surely a gorgeous looking piece under the car and is very well constructed! (and very easy to install). After installing both the delrin subframe bushings and the IPD Torque Mount I honestly cannot perceive any difference in NVH as yet. Still, I haven't driven the car on the road with it and the upper engine mount is still not installed, so I may very well experience a change in NVH later on. Regardless, the fact that I experienced no change in NVH thus far when the car is idling is pretty welcome considering the many who complained of significant vibration at idle with the Delrin Bushings. Considering that most of the work has been done on the car at this point, all I need is to really get the dash fixed and then I can finally road tune the car. After pretty much exhausting all options I had available to me with the set of tools and expertise that I can get, I finally ordered a DICE tool to inspect the data communication between modules on the car. The ME7 ECU is definitely relaying the coolant temperature/rpm information to the CEM because I can see the RPM and Coolant temp data over a OBD II Connection. I have a feeling that either my DIM is defective or somewhere in the wiring of the car something is messed up and that's causing the CEM not to send data to the DIM. Either way, I'll find out exactly what's going on when I receive the DICE tool next week. After fixing the DIM, it's just a matter of putting the interior and the wiper cowling back together, mounting up the ECU box, tidying up a few wire harnesses and re-installing the upper engine mount before I'm ready to road tune. The main thing I'm trying to achieve at this point is getting the car to be streetable. Once the car can move efficiently on its own power with a base tune I'll be in the process of sorting minor problems out, saving up some cash to get my exhaust installation done and installing a progressive water methanol injection kit to make some more power. Hopefully by late this year I should have the car ready to be dyno tuned. From seeing what others have been able to do with a good ME7 tune on a RN 2.3L HPT with a 16T, I hope that I should be able to make around 275-285 WHP on 95RON pump gas with 50/50 water meth later this year. I'll be posting more and more updates as the car reaches closer to completion. Realistically I don't foresee the car taking any longer than the end of June to have the road tuning done. Until then stay tuned and enjoy these few pics. The new clockspring. Burning out the OEM Subframe Bushings. Looks nasty doesn't it? Burnt-out OEM Subframe Bushing CJ Yother Delrin Subframe Bushings Installed!!! My other friend Michael helping me out with the Delrin Bushing Installed. Yes I do have many friends!! The subframe that you see on the ground is the old subframe for the B6294S 6cyl Engine. Glamour shot of the new IPD Billet Aluminum Transmission Torque Mount. This is surely a gorgeous looking piece, almost a shame that it's hidden under the car out of sight! IPD Billet Aluminum Transmission Torque Mount Installed. I wish I had taken a pic of the OEM part to show how badly worn it was. A sight for sore eyes! My Brake Lights, Reverse Lights and Indicators all work!!! Random shot of me configuring some inputs and outputs of the Haltech in software. Fahim wiring up the relays for the Haltech's integrated turbo timer. The turbo timer works awesome! With my pretty big workstation laptop in his hands, it was pretty difficult for Fahim to reach over from the passenger seat to hold a wire for me that I was soldering. The solution: he used his foot to hold the wire! Who needs a pair of helping hands when you have Fahim's helping foot! Obviously you can see that we get to have some fun when working on pretty tedious stuff like the electrical system! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 [update ] I've made an appointment with my tuner to do a base tune (i.e. a lower power road worthy tune) for next week Friday! This week I've been pretty busy making such all the modifications are working as expected and reassembling the car. The dashboard is still not getting data and the ground trigger for the A/C relay is not being sent by the ME7 ECU. Based off the data collected from my DiCE tool, I hypothesize that the problem I'm running into might be ME7 ECU related.... specifically I think that the first electrician I hired mixed up the ECUs and installed the 5CYL ME7 in the harness; seeing as the 5CYL is theorethically not fully compatible with my CANbus, I want to ensure that the 6 CYL ME7 is installed. In the event that the ME7 currently installed is indeed the 6 CYL, I want to take every possible precaution that I don't accidentally install the 5 CYL ECU which can potentially do damage to my electrical system so I'm sending the ECU that is currently not installed to Lucky @ ARD to verify if the ECU is the 6CYL ME7 (I have no way of telling otherwise which ECU is which). Regardless of the outcome of the dashboard and A/C woes, I'm still tuning so I can at least drive the car. I'll post a more detailed update sometime later in the week. I can't wait for the first real drive now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 [update: The car has a base road tune!] The car was base tuned tonight! It's running wastegate pressure so it's not fast but it surprisingly is not THAT slow either. I'm pretty tired and really don't have the time or energy to post a comprehensive update tonight but I thought I'd let these three pics convey my thoughts for you First Drive! I was greasy, sweaty and tired but most of all, I was happy! The car on the road during the road-tune. Parked outside a subway fast foodstore after road tuning. Parked up outside of my house for the first time in 10 months! Getting a professional detailing (snow foaming being done in this particular pic) courtesy of Karim Khan's Auto Perfection. Special thanks to Mr. Karim Khan who did the job for me for free! He's apparently an avid follower/fan of the build and he was happy to detail the car for me for free! He did an awesome job too! My friend and I took our cars to a local racing event on Sunday and put them on show (neither of them are ready to compete just yet after all) under the tent of a friend who was competing. We got a lot of looks and positive comments about both cars! These are the two most heavily modified Volvos in the country and both of them are T5s (mine is the T-5M and his is a T-5R with an auto tragic (at least for now, he's converting to some manual magic goodness just now). More updates soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nyc1dxo Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Keep it going. Its great to read about your passion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Keep it going. Its great to read about your passion. Thanks man! Glad to know that people appreciate what I'm doing. [update] Heard a horrible screeching noise from the turbo area 2 days ago. It rises with rpm and comes distinctly from the back of the engine, specifically where the turbo is. The noise almost sounds like a belt rubbing against something, which I'm sure its not because I checked. There is also a major loss of power so I started scrapping back the car to get access to the turbo. So far I identified that there isn't any shaft play and the compressor and turbine wheel both spin smoothly... anyone has any thoughts as to what might be going on? Everyone who heard the noise so far said it sounds like a bearing seizing up but this is pretty contradictory to what I've found so far with the shaft play and the rotation of the wheels... then again the noise only comes when the rpm rises above idle so I'm wondering if the turbo bearings aren't getting lubrication/etc. and start to seize at higher rpms. Either way the turbo is coming down by Sunday evening to get a full inspection. I hope all I need is a rebuild kit or at worse a replacement turbo since that would be fairly cheap in comparison to a bigger problem, say engine internals; that said I don't think it's anything engine related.. from the standalone EMS the engine seems to be healthy as far as the various sensors can tell and it doesn't seem to be the source of the noise either. I also identified that my intake manifold has a crack on one of the runners but I'm getting it sorted out by Sunday morning. The oil cooler also seems to be damaged and leaking significant oil and the front crank seal seems to be shot. I haven't been loosing oil to the point where it's noticeable on the dipstick but the subframe is coated in a thin film of oil. I'll be upgrading to the Focus RS500 oil cooler and the front seal should be changed soon enough. I ordered a water/meth injection kit and I got 2x Vibrant Ultra Quiet 3" Resonators and a Magnaflow XL Muffler, so I could start to complete the list of supporting mods I have before the dyno tune. I also put down close to 450 km in the few days that the car has been tuned (a lot of mileage considering how small my island is and that our highways are pretty short as well) and other than the afformentioned problems, the car seems to be working very well. With any major project I guess there are always teething problems so this is probably my fair share! My apologies for posting so few/poorly detailed updates recently but I'm reallllly tired this past month... between getting things done on the car, handling school work and spending time with my dying grandmother, I've been stretched pretty thin. Scrapping the intake and turbo...again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted August 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 It's been a long time since I posted... here's what happened in the last few weeks I fixed the intake manifold, replaced all gaskets on the turbo side, installed a S60R manifold, fixed my accelerator pedal weight problem by removing redundant springs on the throttle body, installed a water methanol injection kit, changed oil sump o-rings, changed front crank seal, changed oil sump o-ring/gasket, replaced my oil cooler, created my own timing reference on the crankshaft so my tuner could more easily set ignition timing (we found that it's pretty hard to set ignition timing on RNs since the timing marks only serve to set a base timing and aren't an indication of TDC), installed some 550cc red injectors and, retuned at the same boost level but with advanced ignition timing and a varied fuel map. After tuning the car pulled significantly stronger for the same boost level and was a lot better on gas. It also was easier to drive as it was less prone to stalling and had no problems cold starting. I was also finally able to fix the issues I had with the DIM and A/C. My theory that the electrician who initially wired the car mixed up the ECUs was correct! After Lucky verified that the ECU I sent him was in fact the 6 cyl ECU, we installed it and the tachometer, water temperature gauge and A/C were all fixed! On the other side of things the sump started leaking after we replaced the o-ring seals (100% due to my, and my friends, auto diy inexperience), the clutch started to slip after we retuned (I suspect that the clutch had never been changed before with that setup) and more recently, my gearbox started making extremely loud whirring noises that increases with speed in any gear. I suspect that this failure was likely caused by incorrect gearbox oil being used in the box by the mechanic who initially helped me swap the engine/box. When I recently drained the fluid, I noticed that it was extremely thin and was certainly not gearbox oil. I also found many metal shavings on my magnetic drain plugs and in the oil. I replaced the oil with redline MTL and drove around for a while but the box still makes these noises. Since I can source a M56 relatively cheaply and since there aren't many rebuild parts for M56s I've decided to import another M56 and use that instead. I'll be selecting another M56 that has a shorter final drive ratio (I find that the current box's FD is a bit too tall for my liking). I'm not sure of the FD of my current M56 since the sticker on it is missing. If anyone has any clues as to what it might be on an 02 S60 T5 then please let me know! I'll also be changing the slave cylinder/throwout bearing, rear main seal, pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate while I'm in there. I'm not looking to replace the clutch anytime soon so if anyone has any suggestions as to what might be suitable for my application please let me know! I see that Sachs 707 PPs and 850R clutches mated to a re-pinned SMF are a popular option, but since I'm a new driver to manual cars and I plan to use this car as my daily driver, I fear that the increase in pedal feel might be too much for me to handle. In my research thus far, I haven't seen any actual feedback about the increase in pedal weight other than a few guys speculating that it most likely would be substantial given how beefy it is. It seems that the community unanimously feels that SPEC clutches are garbage and while I have seen other options from AP Racing, Southbend Clutches and Bully Clutches, I haven't seen any information as to how these clutches affect pedal weight. I don't foresee me crossing 300WHP until late next year but I don't expect to be doing so much mileage that my clutch is worn out by the time I upgrade to a 19T or even a Garrett GTX28 or GTX30 turbo, hence I want a clutch that will be able to last me through a spew of power upgrades. Even though my long term goals for my build are 400WHP/TQ I have little to no idea how that will feel on a FWD volvo and I'm not 100% sure if I'll ultimately want that much power. I definitely need some time to grow accustomed to this powertain and figure out what will work for me but I at least want to ensure that my clutch setup can safely accommodate 350WHP should I feel the need for speed. Based on my budget and current and medium term power goals, I'm thinking that an S60R clutch and PP would be well suited to my application. I previously read on here that someone took an S60R clutch & PP up to 400WHP @ 7K+ RPM and it never slipped until the day it suddenly failed. If a S60R clutch and PP could at least take me to 350WHP @ 6500 RPM then I think I would gladly invest in one especially since it would have that factory pedal feel to it! Please let me know what you guys think and I apologize for my infrequent updates. I'm a pretty busy guy and I'm not often on VS but I'll try and keep you guys updated whenever I could. ...and now the obligatory picture dump! My TD04HL-16T Installing the reservoir for my water methanol injection kit. Found a pretty stealthy place to mount it! Can you spot the fill port for the WMI kit? Now can you see it? I have pretty easy to access to this with a funnel and it's a pretty stealthy installation!! Here's a pretty clear view of my front suspension and brake setup. And this is a general glamour shot of the engine bay And this is Neil, my good friend who has always been helping me along with this build and never was featured in any picture in this entire thread. He's taking off the serpentine belt in this shot. This is how the oil pump looks after ripping it open to service it. Pre-lubricating the oil pump internals before installation. This is a neat little vacuum box I got from 42 draft designs. It neatens up the vacuum side of things a fair amount. Great little product. Notice anything different? IPD Silicone Boost coupling installed.. because my old couplings were in pretty bad shape. This is my friend Shaun. He's a new addition to our crew. Here he is being productive and changing out the one bad part of my suspension.. a busted spring seat. Close up view of the strut assembly... looks nice! Old spring seat... looks pretty busted to me!! My front bumper was off to help mount the WMI injection kit so it was a prime time to take a shot of the awesome Do88 intercooler. Strut assembly going back in. Japanifold vs S60R Manifold. Snabb Ultimate Copper 2-Ply Exhaust Manifold Gasket While my sump was out to change the o-rings, I thought it was a prime time to give it a rough cleaning and this is the result. And more of the same Sump re-installed with new (now confirmed to be leaking) pink volvo anaerobic sealant. You can also see the side engine mount that I replaced in this pic too, the old one was pretty busted up. Shaun being industrious and applying volvo pink stuff! Kevin being industrious and installing red 550cc injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Impressive work!!! That's way too much sealant he's applying - just needs a thin coating - the important part is the careful and thorough cleaning of both carrier & pan (and the inside of the block where it will like to drip down onto the new seal as you try to install the pan..) What did the screeching end up being? Turbocharger or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Impressive work!!! That's way too much sealant he's applying - just needs a thin coating - the important part is the careful and thorough cleaning of both carrier & pan (and the inside of the block where it will like to drip down onto the new seal as you try to install the pan..) What did the screeching end up being? Turbocharger or no? I'll keep the tip about the sealant in mind as we redo the sump. The turbo was fine all along but there was an exhaust gas leak between the turbo and manifold (no gasket was installed) and the original exhaust manifold gasket was leaking quite a bit. After replacing everything all the noise went away BTW Hussein, what are your experiences like with the DM flywheel + S60R Clutch and PP? How much power and torque did it hold on your setup before it began to slip? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I ran 350WHP on the DM & S60R clutch before it started slipping. The Kalmar Union SM flywheel in conjunction with the AP racing clutch gives an almost stock pedal feel - I would recommend it highly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 a 16T will not get you to even 300 wheel horsepower, unless you were planning on using a different turbo in the near future Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I ran 350WHP on the DM & S60R clutch before it started slipping. The Kalmar Union SM flywheel in conjunction with the AP racing clutch gives an almost stock pedal feel - I would recommend it highly. Thanks for the recommendation, do you get any vibrations with the SM? I'm running delrin subframe bushings, IPD billet transmission torque mounts and a polyurethane upper engine mount installed already and I haven't had any noticeable increases in NVH. My car already rides fairly stiff from my suspension upgrades and I fear that going to a SM might decrease the driveability of the car. a 16T will not get you to even 300 wheel horsepower, unless you were planning on using a different turbo in the near future I'm planning to swap to a 19T sometime next year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 billet wheel on a 19T will get you 350 WHP very nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.