rbodor3 Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Gents (I use this loosely) - A tad low compression on cylinder 3 (120psig) had me collecting parts planning a summer rebuild because I get bored easily. Unfortunately, I started blowing white smoke out the exhaust outlet and engine stuttering, despite AFR at 14-15. Towed the Volvo home suspecting internal coolant leak, based on the sweet sweet smell of suck. Low and behold it's the compressor spitting oil. Compressor-Side Oil CAC Inlet-Side Oil As good a time as any to start doing the rebuild. I already have a backup Saab for transport. Here's my game plan, I have everything but pistons, rings, bearing set, and the Quaife. Read the sig, but I'm running a 19T on a LPT currently. ENGINE - 139.5m Forged rods [ARD] - Rebuild green injectors - Rod & crank bearings [eEuroparts] - Pistons as necessary [myswedishparts] - Head bolts [ipd] - HG kit [ipd] - Timing belt and tensioner 30758261 [tasca] - Rebuilt 19T [eBay] - Rear main seal 9458178 [tasca] TRANS - m56 $1000 [junkyard] including: Slave cylinder Master cylinder Pedals, shifter knob, shifter cables & brackets assembly, center console/interior parts Flywheel Clutch Pressure plate Driver-side axle - Passenger-side axle [junkyard] - Flywheel bolts (x10) 9454743 = $43.70 [tasca] - Pressure plate bolts (x6) 959219 = $7.26 [myswedishparts] - Transmission fluid filter - Quaife QDF12J $900 MACHINING - Check block and head for cracks - Balance rotating assembly - Valve job - Deck - Lighten flywheel - Hone - Bore as necessary EXTRAS - 27 x 7 x 2.5" eBay front-mount - ARD green cal - Delrin shifter bushings x4, machining - Delrin shifter cable bushings x2, machining Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 6, 2013 Report Share Posted February 6, 2013 Do/did you have a VTA breather system? That much oil in the compressor side ( which nefer really fails) is more likely blow by from your low compression. Have you done a leak down to confirm bottom end or head cause of compression loss? If you're building a new(er) motor for more power, get 147mm rods and pistons to match. No reason to stay with the old heavy setup with a complete build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Do/did you have a VTA breather system? That much oil in the compressor side ( which nefer really fails) is more likely blow by from your low compression. Have you done a leak down to confirm bottom end or head cause of compression loss? If you're building a new(er) motor for more power, get 147mm rods and pistons to match. No reason to stay with the old heavy setup with a complete build. Darn you! I wanted to buy his old turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Do/did you have a VTA breather system? That much oil in the compressor side ( which nefer really fails) is more likely blow by from your low compression. Have you done a leak down to confirm bottom end or head cause of compression loss? If you're building a new(er) motor for more power, get 147mm rods and pistons to match. No reason to stay with the old heavy setup with a complete build. Yes, vents. Yes, leakdown. I considered the 147mm rods but I'm hoping to re-use the pistons. Shipping return for the 139m is a drop in comparison should I end up going with the 147. I also skimmed some rumors of needing to shave part of the block for the clearance on my '01 motor, and would appreciate clarification if you offer it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Yes, vents. Yes, leakdown. I considered the 147mm rods but I'm hoping to re-use the pistons. Shipping return for the 139m is a drop in comparison should I end up going with the 147. I also skimmed some rumors of needing to shave part of the block for the clearance on my '01 motor, and would appreciate clarification if you offer it. Not sure what your first two comments actually mean. If your '01 motor has 139.5 rods now, then 147mm rods with the matching pistons will end up the same height, so no change to block would be necessary. Are you sure you have 139.5 rods? I'm not familiar with '01 2.4/2.5 LPT motor so I have no clue what crankshaft you have, I'm going off your statement regarding using 139.5mm H-beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 meant to say that yes I vent to atmosphere, and yes I've performed the leakdown and no real head issues. Compression numbers are just outside of the spec, but the reason for the rebuild is more "why not" for me right now. I've the rods and other parts, and I'm bored. Yes sir have 139.5mm believed stock, but when I tear out OE parts will measure. I'll for sure look at the 147m if the pistons are good and dont need to OS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 147 mm rod s will NOT fit the pistons from engine with 139.5 mm rods. the piston will stick up out of the block. You MUST match the pistons and rods as a set, size wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 If the engine has the 147 rods the piston pin diameter will be smaller. 21 vs 23 mm for the T5. I think best would be to replace both the rods and the pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Sorry I haven't updated the post. I'll put some pictures up soon enough. Installed the brake & clutch pedal - anybody know what signals/wires feed the clutch position sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 The clutch switch is 7/123 in the diagram. You'll need to add a wire to pin #B15 on the ECU connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 you wouldn't happen to have the spec on the connector for the clutch position sensor? Don't have one from the donor trans and can't figure how to wire it in proper without one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 worked on the Quaife today. I'm looking up the p/n for the bearings on the diff, which feed to the drive shafts. Are they Timken 32008XM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted February 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 for those wondering: Timken 32008XM is the p/n for the diff-shaft bearings. The OEM is SKF and their pn is 32008 X/Q, which is difficult to find. Looking around, the Timken 32008XM is an exact part, with a higher dynamic loading factor (although no reference speed shown). $25 from Amazon Prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 The clutch position sensor mounts to the two nubs on the clutch master cyl under the driver foot well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 for those wondering: Timken 32008XM is the p/n for the diff-shaft bearings. The OEM is SKF and their pn is 32008 X/Q, which is difficult to find. Looking around, the Timken 32008XM is an exact part, with a higher dynamic loading factor (although no reference speed shown). $25 from Amazon Prime. Bearings are not the same as FWD - one is 32008X, other is 32010X. I bought mine for the 14J install off Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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