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S60 Mt Swap And Rebuild


rbodor3

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Turns out I have 147 rods. Which means engine won't be ready this weekend- waiting for new rods :/

Sucks for the delay, but 147mm rods with the shorter skirt pistons are a distinct improvement over the old longer piston/shorter rod clunkers.

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Wrist pin is 21mm. Can't find any of the forged aftermarket rods in 21mm wrist pin diameters. It looks like CXR was going to release these but never did? Anybody have a source, or alternative solution of just going with aftermarket pistons is my only choice?

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ARD

I didn't think they stocked 147mm rods with 21mm wrist pin...

Wrist pin is 21mm. Can't find any of the forged aftermarket rods in 21mm wrist pin diameters. It looks like CXR was going to release these but never did? Anybody have a source, or alternative solution of just going with aftermarket pistons is my only choice?

If you need a source, I just went through the same ordeal.

The only place that sells the correct spec rods is sten parner motors: http://www.stenparnermotor.se/

They are expensive (around $860 shipped), but you really have no other option. You can go with the 147 mm rods w/ 23mm wrist pin, but then you need custom pistons. You can also go with custom rods, but that will be more expensive then SPM. I looked into pauter rods and was quoted $1060 for a set of 5 custom rods, w/ a 4 week turnaround. Not too bad, but I was trying to get the rods quickly and also save money so I went with SPM.

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Also looking at reusing my rods.


Would need them checked for true from the machinist.

But I'm reading from Lucky that the 19t and 147mm combo is good for 340bhp which is around my goals. Just trying to get the engine back from the machinist so I can install as soon as possible.

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I got the 143 mm rods with the bushing for 23 mm piston pins. My machinist is taking them to someone who may be able to make me some custom bushings to put into the rods so they take the late style 21 mm piston pins. I'll let everyone know if he can do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you don't secure the back of the cams, you are opening up a whole 'nother set of variables when you go to set the VVT on the exhaust cam. Also, how do you intend to torque the hubs back on the cams? Or did you not remove them?

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I didn't remove the cams off the head lik eyou mentioned. Sounds to me like I need the camlocker tool. bleh - 200$ for 1-time-use is murdah.

You could always make one out of angle iron (has to be stepped for the int/EXH offset of the slots) but - it has to be the heavy gauge shit that will fill the slot, not something from Harbor Freight :-)

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