S60 Mt Swap And Rebuild

[lookforjoe]

I bought the tool off eBay, didn't have time to make my own. I'm sorry, but I don't lend tools.

[rbodor3]

Guess I would finally get around to adding some pictures. Out of chronological order... Pulling the engine Pistons pulled Differences in the wahler (Left) and OE (Right) TStats Passthrough for the clutch position sensor as well as reverse light wiring. I added a fuse for now, doesn't hurt anything. Wiring of the cruise control had to be added to the ECM. I found some standard pins that matched the OE, based on the fact that the unit was Bosch and some assumptions I made about the types of terminals Bosch likes The wiring to the actual reverse light I couldn't figure the pins for, so I soldered on a new Delphi connector. I eventually ran some silicon and heat shrink over the terminals. Pulling the manual trans apart Out with the old, in with the new I believe the root cause the turbo failed was the locating pin on the compressor housing. It was missing, and apparenlty never installed. The hole for the pin was fractured on the thin side, and couldn't find it after removal. I ended up purchasing a new compressor housing. Spanky's turbos have had great reviews, but I originally got this unit from him less than 40k miles ago. The failure mode was obvious. I'll take pictures and add later. New turbo cartridge. Opened up the valves Checking the bore. Ended up going 20 over. Hone on the walls, also bored over Polished crank. Adding an ARD Lightweight pulley soon. Head back. You can see the bung that was added for additional crankcase venting. Ported head Valve job. Painting the block. I'm not good at this stuff. New pistons installed Installing the injectors, fresh from rebuild

[rbodor3]

Here's a quick run down of my expenses thus far:
Head bolts = $24
HG Kit = $140, but I must have ordered the wrong one because ended up having to go back and order the VVT gasket oil pump gasket and o-ring, and all of the camshaft seals.
Timbing belt kit = $207
Anaerobic gasket sealant = had
Turbo cartridge = $250
Quaife = $1160
Thermostat (mine had a bad gasket, and tested bad) = $15
Rod bolts, ARP = 65
Power steering boot which I needed to replace = 9.40
PCV container = 32.78
Long axle = 110
Rod and crank bearings = 200
Cabin air filter = 15
Left heater line (broke this on engine pull) = 35.80
New axle seals= 2x 8.25
Barb for washer line (cut this when removing the cut to make it easier to pull) = 0
FMIC 27x7x2.5 core = 70
ARD tune + manual tune = 750
Heat shield insulation in bay = 54.48
Engine paint = 0
Tee for transmission temp port = 8.72
Trans oil for startup and 50-mile flush, 2qt 5w-30
Racing blue DOT4 1qt
3M electrical tape super 88 = 5.90
M56lk trans, pedals, master cylinder, dual mass flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, shifter and interior components, short axle, clutch hydraluic hose = $1100
rear main seal = 20.65
Flywheel bolts = 43.70
Pressure plate bolts = 7.26
Delrin shifter bushings = 0 (made 'em)
Break-in brad pen 30 weight 2qts
Trans filter = 18

Machining
Hone and bore
Valve job, hot tank, pressure test
Porting head runners
Rotating assembly balance
Hot tank block
Clevite pistons
$1620, including the $625 ripoff for pistons

Special tools
Cam locking and alignment tool = $150 (ebay)
mini pick set = 5.43

[lookforjoe]

Nice documentation!

What happened to the edge of this piston, though? Right at 12 oclock - looks like it was nicked or banged around. I'd make sure there are no high spots.

[rbodor3]

thanks formentioning, I completely forgot about it.... stuff. I'll have to pull the rods out the bottom and even out that nick. Good thing I didn't put the trans on yet!

[rbodor3]

Went to start the car tonite.

P0705 = PNP switch

I removed the PNP. Is my tune out of spec or is there something else I'm missing here? The car won't crank at all.

[BlackT5]

You jumpered the starter wires? Isthe tcu installed?

[rbodor3]

I didn't try jumping the starter wires - I was afraid it'd put the engine into lockout and I wouldn't be able to get the engine to start without having it reset.

TCU is still installed. I didn't jump the wires on the TCU. I was reading thru the post that Lucky posted. I scrolled down to the this section:

P2 conversion 1999-2004

For P2 models from 1999-2004 including the S80, S60, V70, and XC90 the process is very similar and includes everything discussed for P80 models but has a few differences as noted below.

1. Reverse lights will need to be hardwired from the reverse switch on the manual trans all the way back to the reverse lights themselves. Since P2 models are full multiplexed cars with dual CAN bus networks the reverse light signal is sent to the CEM which then relays that via the CAN network to the REM which is actually in charge or the reverse lights. Most folks will simply wire the manual trans reverse light switch directly to battery power on one terminal and then run a wire all the way back to the reverse lights on the other terminal. The reverse lights are powered by the Blue wire at the rear light housings and can be tapped off the REM relay #4

2. The CEM controls the start inhibitor for P2 cars so the gear position sensor will need the yellow/black wires connected to ground.

3. Cruise control can be made to work but again the clutch sensor and wiring is not installed to auto trans cars so both the sensor and the wiring will need to be added and connected to the ECU.

Which doesn't say to remove the PNP switch. I did that based on this post over at SS based on the '03 C70 which might be why I'm having the issue.... not sure.

[BlackT5]

You need to get to the wiring to the PNP witch and jumper the fat green and green/red wires to enable the starter.

Key part of that post is " the process is very similar and includes everything discussed for P80 models"

[rbodor3]

So I removed this switch

I tried jumping the Green to Green/Red wires together - still no start and FC P0705.

I looked at the wiring schematic and these wires colors don't seem to correlate to the PRNDL settings. Based on the wiring schematic and vida I should be jumping the White and Blue wires together in order to create the Park situation. That also still throws FC P0705 and no-start.

[lookforjoe]

That's not what lucky said in the post you quoted

He said connect the yellow-black wires at the gear position sensor to ground.

I thought you read that????

Edit : I would still have doubts if the PNP is disconnected - unless the jumper from PNP to starter is NOT part of the actual PNP as it is with 870's

[rbodor3]

You're right. I forgot to mention that this entire time I've had the yellow & black wires grounded. As far as I can tell this is one of the causes of the P0705 fault however. Based on the wiring schematic the Black wire is actually a ground terminal, and basically what I've done is sent the yellow wire to ground (named the "B" signal). Looking through the various combinations for the gear position sensor, there's no corresponding signal for having only the "B" grounded.

I also went back and was bypassing the CAN signals to the TCM by tying green-green and white-white but have found that it's now throwing FCs for no CAN to ECM, ETM, and TCM. Referencing which used an 01 S60 trans in an 01 V70, I'm going to just tie the green/white together on pins 13/1 which are the CAN+ and CAN- signals.

Still no-start :

Sent an email to Lucky hoping to hear back.

[rbodor3]

Update as of tonite:

I've eliminated all the red-lamp faults. I went thru Lucky's article carefully with some fiddling, and of course having to do many steps multiple times. I've found the trick is to restart Vida each time otherwise it won't always update (even when you hit the update button).

I followed instructions to remove the TCM and to jump the CAN high/low wires (green to green, white to white).

I've also grounded the yellow/black stripe wire that used to come directly off of the gear position sensor on the Auto to chassis ground.

I've spliced together the red/green striped with the green wires that used to come off the gear position sensor on the Auto.

I'm still not getting anything out of the starter, although I can hear the relay clicking. No red faults. I have an amber fault for the shift lock signal missing CEM-3F03. The symptoms for this fault do in fact show that the starter won't work. The shift lock mechanism is located on the gear selector of the auto, but isn't on the manual. Should I jump the wires to create continuity in this signal?

[rbodor3]

So after much T/S, I've determined there are no wiring faults.

I've jumped pin 85 of the starter relay to ground, rather then back to the CEM. The starter lockout is controlled by the CEM (as many have speculated); however, unlike some of the other early P2 models there is also a CAN signal identified through a PCAN trace. I was unable to send an override signal through PCAN-Viewer - I'm unfortunately not terribly well versed in raw CAN traces.

This has solved the starter lockout issue. Monitoring the vida parameters shows that the starter inhibit is still being commanded by the CEM, but since the CEM is no longer connected to the starter relay there are no controls. There's also no FC for the starter lockout, so I assume this is all OKay.

The engine is having very rough idle - appears to be some sort of misfire. No timing or misfire FCs, however. I sprayed out the CAC with the hose when I was flushing out the chassis - originally planning to plumb up the new front-mount CAC, but timing has been difficult and have to reuse the OE CAC. I wonder if excess water caught in the CAC is causing me to idle rough. Injectors were rebuilt by an independent contractor so these are also a possibility.

The brake booster position sensor was also damaged during the original engine pull, and I had to implement a temporary "quick fix". When I key off I can hear the sensor hissing from the connection to the booster - I wonder if this vac leak from the booster is also causing me to idle rough?

Apologies for lack of details, but I'll post how the final wiring schematic and repower has gone once I have everything back in full swing.