Brad850 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 I've been smelling raw fuel after wot lately. I noticed that the charcoal canister area is where the smell is coming from. Both canister and lines/rubber elbows are all stock and crappy looking. I'm going to replace the lines soon but is it worth it to replace the canister also? Do they get clogged up or go bad? No codes and afr is near perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootdiggity Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Never seen the canister go bad unless you overfill your gas tank thus sucking fuel into canister I would however change the rubber elbows back by the rollover valve next to fuel filter I have seen those rot on every 850 and are not easy noticed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Cool.. thanks. I'm going to be replacing all of the lines. Is there anything better than stock that I can use? Would it be a bad idea to run silicone for the entire evap/canister system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scootdiggity Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I wouldn't use silicone I ended up using the heavy duty hose like fuel line that has the thread interweave as it is better and more durable than cheap vacuum hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiles855R Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 I started getting a gas smell and I replaced the canister lines and smell disappeared. So I'd start there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 thank u sir's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted March 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Ok have a question about this guy... http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-jaguar-booster-check-valve-black-and-white The black check valve in between the intake mani and the evap purge valve with the 12v connecter... air should only be able to go in one direction correct? It doesn't hold any vacuum on either side. If not what's the point of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted March 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Here's a better picture...although mine is black. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=1474 I see some people are calling it the "inline filter". I wonder if this is the cause of my boost fade problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Just an FYI, there were a few ARD tunes with a problem with the EVAP circuit (charcoal canister system). The evap valve would never turn on and the canister would fill with fumes/fuel. Make sure your evap valve is functioning, it should turn on when the car is warmed up and you are idling, you'll hear a clicking sound from the unit. It normally cycles on and off. A bad Evap valve typically fails in the open position due to debris in the valve (fumes are drawn into the intake all the time). Won't cause your problem. I've never had an Evap system saturate the canister except for when my ARD tune was doing it. If this turns out to be the issue, Lucky will of course fix it, he's a stand up guy as anyone will tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 ...... looked at your pics, the first check valve is not for a Volvo brake system as far as I know, the check valve is located where the hose enters the booster. The later turbo cars added a few check valves to prevent boost loss. Don't thing the other picture is of a filter, it is also a check valve (the later type described last sentence) to prevent boost from going toward the fuel tank / evap system. The later cars also had an actual filter before the check valve to prevent debris (charcoal pieces?) from entering the valve, it would have been located between the valve and canister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted March 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Alright well my purge valve seems to be ok. Holds vacuum on both sides with no power. Will check if it works on the car tomorrow. If not I'll test it outside of the car before I start bothering Robert Regarding the check valve, the first picture I provided was just for visual being that it looks similar. Second picture is exactly what I was talking about. Thanks once again for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 3, 2013 Report Share Posted March 3, 2013 Alright well my purge valve seems to be ok. Holds vacuum on both sides with no power. Will check if it works on the car tomorrow. If not I'll test it outside of the car before I start bothering Robert Regarding the check valve, the first picture I provided was just for visual being that it looks similar. Second picture is exactly what I was talking about. Thanks once again for the help. If you have an OBD scanner that gives live data, hook it up and see if your fuel trims are moving. The ARD tune I am referring to also had a problem with fuel trims since the car was never allowed to go into closed loop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I have the foxwell nt300 from ipd.. tried to do that but really have no idea what I'm looking at. How often should the purge valve open? I let the car idle for about 5 minutes and didn't hear or feel a click. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 The EVAP system is most active when the fuel tank is below 1/2 filled, it should circulate on/off at idle when the car is warm. I am not familiar with the Foxwell scanner, does it have any section that reads "Data" or "Live Data" or something to that effect? That's what you should look at and see what the LTFT and STFT data feeds are doing. You could email Lucky and see if you have an ECU problem, he'll probably know if it is suspect based on your date of purchase. There are some bad ECU's out there... This was a topic a while back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefhon Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 clarification ?: is "purge valve" the same thing as the "check valve?" b/c volvo calls it a "check" valve it you're talking about the same thing... spanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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