20G Rear Engine Mount Clearance

[boxpin]

I am working on my oil and coolant lines and am stuck on the rear coolant line. I am doing this on a mock up engine but do not have a rear engine mount to test clearance on. The rear coolant line swings right under the compressor housing. If I am already going to be close to the mount is this a bad idea? Should I route it another way?

[lookforjoe]

Extend the coupler sleeve another few mm, so there is an air gap between the pipe and compressor housing ( where the hose is currently touching). I'd use steel, not copper, and silver-solder or braise the coupling.

[prasamin]

Extend the coupler sleeve another few mm, so there is an air gap between the pipe and compressor housing ( where the hose is currently touching). I'd use steel, not copper, and silver-solder or braise the coupling.

but then that pipe is going to impede more on the rear mount.

you really need to get that rear mount in there, and you might be able to grind a groove in it for routing that line....

hard to tell anything without it being there....or wait until you drop the entire thing in, see where it's hitting, use indelible pencil/markings on it to transfer, and grind a bit....that's what Aaron did with mine for clearance, though my line wasn't running below the housing, but rather behind it, so that wasn't an issue

[lookforjoe]

If it is going to hit passing under, then you'll have to add bends to bring the water pipe up & out, so it can pass higher up, over the rear mount, then back down around the compressor. Should be able to use bend sections from another pipe to achieve this.

Mine had no rear mount, but I did this:

So, similar, but more offset up top

[dougy]

this might give you some ideas even though it's on s60r awd...coolant lines could go either way.

[Tightmopedman9]

I went the opposite way with mine as you can see in this picture:

[GLTurboguy]

You know what I think? I think someone should just start making and selling those custom rear tranny mounts since a lot of people are starting to branch out past the TD04 family. I think it's a huge step forward from when I first joined VS when it used to be "Slap on a 19T and call it a day" I love that people are starting to step outta the box!

[lookforjoe]

I would avoid running it over the hot side. That sucka can be glowing cherry red - not good for proximity to coolant lines. The stock return comes up much higher before traveling over to the right (front of engine) side. Also has the heat shield to isolate it further.

[Tightmopedman9]

My strategy isn't the best for longevity, but I do plan on getting a turbo blanket soon.

[boxpin]

Extend the coupler sleeve another few mm, so there is an air gap between the pipe and compressor housing ( where the hose is currently touching). I'd use steel, not copper, and silver-solder or braise the coupling.

All the lines I have made so far have been from piecing together parts trying to maintain the same paths and look of OEM. I have been using the copper sleeves but I am brazing. All the black lines are done. Its probably best that I dont risk it and maneuver it away from the bottom of the compressor housing.

[dougy]

does anybody have a picture of how the rear engine ( OE original ) mount should be modified on 850 for it to clear the 20g or 16g?

[hotpantslovebug]

I don't know if this helps, I'm guessing grind the crap out of it?



Also, Rye should be selling BMac's mount (above) separately as well as all the other parts in his RZ kit. If you can wait until he starts selling them that would solve the clearance issue and make for a nice shinny install with no grinding.

From Platinum 850 20g Install

[boxpin]

I contacted Rye back in Jan. The mount was not done at that point. I will hit him up again.

[Tightmopedman9]

I ended up taking a bit more material off after this.

[prasamin]

it's easy...just grind the metal down like above....but you need to drop the assembly in to check clearance...or you can just grind down to the maximum possible and it should clear.