Lets Talk Cam Seals And How To On A Dual Vvt 5 Cyl

[Ghost Shadow]

Just ordered a can locking tool.

My 05 V70R front cam seals is leaking, now enough to reach to floor and puddle up.

Those who have done it, or know how to do it. can you please shed some light on this matter for me?

was planning on getting the 3 seals and the cap. t/b was done @ 135k...it has 170k right now. Personally, i was thinking about changing it ALL out since i have no documentation except a sticker on the cover. since i was going to be in there anyways. i dont know...

advice, help, tips ect... or should i not do it and send it out?

[Aequitas_Veritas]

I have done this job 3 times now on my new dual VVT engine, twice they leaked and 3rd time I finally got them to be dry so I am intimately aware at exactly how to do this job without leaking. But you posted this just before I went to bed so I will have to give you the how to tomorrow. Its quite key how far they go in because the cam wheel is actually part of the seal. I will draw you a picture of exactly how far tomorrow. The other hard part about it is that the VVT cams do not have a way you can just set them to how they were before, you can literally install them 360deg around, so you literally have to retime them from scratch everytime you pull the cam wheels. Setting the timing is key once they are together. I will try and clearly explain that as well. Its harder to explain then it is to understand. Once you get how to do it its really not very hard at all. There is also a trick to getting off the cam seal on the exhaust side because of how close it is to the strut tower.

[Ghost Shadow]

great paul, anything special tools i need to get? since its leaking, do you think i should replace the timing stuff in there belt, pump and crap like that?

[Tightmopedman9]

You will need the cam locking tool. You have to remove the center T55 torx bolt to remove the VVT gear to get to the seal underneath. You won't have to retime the engine if you lock the cams and pay attention to the marks on the cams.

[Boglin]

Leaky seals may mean loose VVT hubs. We change them all the time have exhaust and intakes hubs on hand always.

[Aequitas_Veritas]

Ok so here it goes.

First you will need a T55 torx with a 3/4"in drive and a 3/4" drive breaker bar and other standard tools. You also need this kit:



1. First things first as with any timing belt job, jack the front end up, pull off the passenger wheel. Lift the cover for the crank bolt. Take off the timing belt cover. Crank the engine over to TDC.

2. Remove everything off of the cams on the battery side of them. This is usually a cap you have to replace on the intake side, and a Crank position sensor o the exhaust. On my engine I had the distributor I installed when I swapped it to my 850 and CPS. Install cam locking tool across the back of the cams.

3. Remove starter and cap beneath the starter on the side of the engine. Slide this tool into the hole and make sure it bottoms out. If it doesn't crank the engine just a bit further clockwise and push the tool in.



Crank the engine counterclockwise barely until it stops against this tool.

4. Now that everything is locked in take the timing belt off. For a video version of the above steps refer to IPD here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_zH8g8Fow

You will probably be familiar with most of these steps if you have ever done a non VVT timing belt.

5. Ok, here is where things get tricky. First you have to remove the two caps for the VVT hubs. They are not torqued down extremely tight, just to 55ftlbs. However you will probably notice that the exhaust side is really close to the shock tower and you cant fit the T55 and a wrench on it (At least I couldn't when it was in the 850, not sure about S60/V70s). I had to move the wiring harness there first, But even then did not have enough room. So the only way I could do it was to slip a 10mm wrench over the T55 bit (it should fit perfectly) and then use another wrench as an extension on the 10mm to gain enough leverage to break the cap loose. When you are pulling the cap off make SURE you have a rag underneath it as it will spill oil everywhere. Once the cap is off there is enough room to be able to take out the center bolt with the T55 and breaker bar on both cams. They are quite tight so it will take some strength to remove them. Make sure you note which cam wheel is which so you put them back on the correct side. Keep the rags underneath and pull the cam wheels off.

6. Pry out the old seals and clean the surfaces really well with a rag then q-tips dipped in alcohol. Once they are nice and clean its time to install the new cam seals. I used a press I pieced together from spare stuff I had laying around. First here is what you are looking at (the cam sticks out more then the picture would indicate, but I drew it short to make it easier to see whats going on):



There is a tiny angled ledge around the whole thing. As well as a divit around the outside. To the bottom of the divit is the depth you need to press the cam tool. Speaking of the press, this is what I used:



Now I have read that you should not use any sealer between the cam seal and the engine block and I have also read that you should. I had the best luck with using a gasket maker that gets hard. So I put a thin layer around the outside of the seal, waited a few min for it to get tacky (as per the instructions) then pressed it in with my press. DO NOT TRY AND JUST PUSH IN THE SEAL WITHOUT USING A PRESS, you cant get it even, if you press it too far or the slightest bit crooked its going to leak. So I pressed the cam seals down into place just to to the bottom of the divit. Feel around the outside to make sure the depth is even all the way around the outside of the cam seal.

7. Now use a Q-tip dipped in oil and oil the entire inner surface of the cam seal as well as the cam where the cam wheel will be slipping into.

8. Note the TDC mark on each cam wheel, if there are 2 marks, both of which could be TDC (like there were on my cams) Look at the back of the cam wheel for the other TDC mark to figure out what mark on the front you are trying to line it up with. Slide the cam wheels on. Making sure that you don't confuse the intake and exhaust cam wheels.

9. Here is where the instructions I found online start to get a bit dicey. Its quite difficult to explain, but easy once you get the hang of it.

Thread the cam bolt through the cam wheel and into cam itself, just barely snug them up. You will be able to feel the VVT action by turning the cam wheels back and forth. Note they are not spinning on the bolts, just back and forth using the VVT's play.

Now put the top cam wheel cover on (I like to use white out on the top of the cover right where the timing marks are so you can see them better). Now turn the cam wheels clockwise until the TDC mark on the cams pretty much line up with the TDC marks on the cam cover (it doesn't have to be perfect, you will be able to fine tune it later). Now snug up the wheels fairly tight (but not crazy tight yet), make sure you cant turn the Cam wheel outside the VVT play using your hands. Now you are going to break the 3 8mm bolts loose around the outside of the cam wheel. Center the outside cam wheel on the 8mm bolts and lightly tighten one of the 8mm bolts.

10. Loosen the center bolt again so its just snug, and turn then wheel until it first fully engages the VVT, then drags the whole wheel until the TDC mark on the cams is pointed at the TDC mark on the cam cover (it doesn't have to be perfect, you use the 8mm bolts for fine tuning). Now snug down the Center bolt. Now double check the 8mm bolts are still in the center of the channels and the TDC mark on the cam wheels is pretty close to the TDC mark on the cam cover. Now tighten the Cam bolt down using the breaker bar pretty much as tight as you can get it. Also put the Caps on and tighten them down.

11. Get to step 10 on both cam wheels. Once both cam wheels are to this point, and you are pretty close to your TDC mark on both, you will have to do your fine tuning. But to do that you need the belt. Its also helpful to have a partner for the next few steps.

12. First start by having the timing belt only around the crankshaft, pull up on both sides so you are sure its seated in the crankshaft grooves. While keeping tension on the left side, thread the right side of the belt around the idler and just up to the intake cam wheel. line up the grooves while the two TDC marks are also lined, you have to keep clockwise tension on the VVT with one hand, while trying to turn out outside cam wheel as tight as you can against the belt. Now tighten one 8mm bolt. Its easier with the cam cover off, but you will have to make sure you are in the right set of grooves and not off one tooth. If you do it correctly, your TDC marks will match when you put the cam cover back on.

13. With the tension still on the left side of the belt and the right side wrapped around the intake cam, check the tension on the belt between the crankshaft and the idler, and the idler to the intake cam wheel. If you are able to turn the intake cam wheel at all with the belt around it then its not correct. It should be locked in place with the belt around it. Once you are sure the intake came is set perfect, tighten all 3 8mm bolts around the outside edge. Double check everything again.

14. Now that the belt is wrapped about the intake cam. Continue its path to the exhaust cam wheel. Repeat steps 12 and 13 with the exhaust cam, making sure the tension between the two cam wheels has some give, but not much. Now all 8mm bolts should be tigh As well as the center T55 and capst. Now with both VVT wheels turned fully clockwise double check your TDC marks to the cam cover. They should line up. Now your cam wheels are set.

15. You can pretty much follow the top video now to finish the job. It mostly just involves finishing wrapping the timing belt around the rest of the idlers and tensioners and setting the tensioner correctly. One other tip I have learned is to make sure the belt is only barely on the idlers and cam wheels, so only about 1/4" of the width of the belt is over the idlers and tensioners, then extend the tensioner fully so it gives as much slack as possible. Keep the last part of the belt you put on to be the exhaust cam, and when you are finally able to slip it over, push the rest of the belt fully onto the cam wheels and idlers. Now you have the belt around everything. Just have to use an 6mm allen to set the tensioner and tighten it down. Your timing should now be correct. Double check your TDC marks on the cams and crankshaft.

16. Remove the cam locks and crank lock tools. Crank the engine over 2x, its easier with the sparkplugs removed. If there is any resistance with the spark plugs removed STOP. If the sparkplugs are still in there will be some, but if you feel it suddenly stop as if the valves hit a piston then STOP. Once you have spun the engine around twice double check the timing marks again.

17. Put everything back together and start it up!

18, Have a beer. You deserved it.

[Ghost Shadow]

shit paul, sounds like you know this from doing it so many time!...

btw i bought this kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121073751652?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Leaky seals may mean loose VVT hubs. We change them all the time have exhaust and intakes hubs on hand always.

what do you mean leaky hubs. enlighten me please.

[831t5r]

At our dealer its always the exhaust hubs on s/v40 that leak. Havent really seen em on p2's.but thats here in cali

[Aequitas_Veritas]

shit paul, sounds like you know this from doing it so many time!...

btw i bought this kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121073751652?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

you really need this tool as well to do it

[Aequitas_Veritas]

The more I write the more I realize I am just going to turn this into a how to instead. So I will have it up here until I am done, then I will create a new thread.

[boxpin]

[survolvo]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Special-tool-Pin-number-999-5451-for-Volvo-cam-timing-/170942315438

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=Cat&Cat=VOLVO%20TOOLS

But, I have always just used a 3/8 extension...

[Ghost Shadow]

i always wondered what that wierd looking thing was. thanks for the pictures. like ^^^ i always used a 3/8 extension. but thats ok...now i have another reason to buy a tool

3 seals and cap is coming from the dealer tomorrow, so is the cam lokcing tool, should be in on friday.

what is the tip on removing the cover?

[mune237]

Cover? Are you talking rear cam seal cap? I think I just poked a screwdriver in it and pried it out, then tossed in trash.

I can't recall any fluid in the hubs????

I didn't use the crank locking tool. When you do use it, does it keep the crank lines lined up?

I just made sure the crank was positioned correctly during the process.

With my home made rear cams locking tool, loosening that T55 exhaust hub bolt was the hardest part. My tool kept bending at the cam slots.

With the actual tool, it should be easier.

If you follow the directions from the get go. you'll be good. I didn't get the VOLVO process until I was into the job. I started with Haynes and forum help.

Don't skip this step

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on
the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.

Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise,
then back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond.

With the marks lined up, before you do anything else, mark EVERYTHING. That'll be your proof later

[Aequitas_Veritas]

Cover? Are you talking rear cam seal cap? I think I just poked a screwdriver in it and pried it out, then tossed in trash.

Yeah thats probably what hes talking about. I drilled a hole in it, then pried it out with a screwdriver. You have to get a replacement from the dealer and replace it cause its part of the oil seal

I can't recall any fluid in the hubs????

Mine had a decent amount of oil in them all 4 times I did this job (3 on my car 1 on another S60)

I didn't use the crank locking tool. When you do use it, does it keep the crank lines lined up?

I just made sure the crank was positioned correctly during the process.

Yup thats what it does. You can do the job without it, but it helps keep it in position when you are pulling on it with the belt and moving it all around

With my home made rear cams locking tool, loosening that T55 exhaust hub bolt was the hardest part. My tool kept bending at the cam slots.

With the actual tool, it should be easier.

Yeah you cant use bullshit home made tools with the VVT cams like you can the non VVT cams, You have to crank the center bolt down to like 140lbs of force. That will bend almost anything you make the tool out of. Just buy the tool for this one. I promise its worth it.

If you follow the directions from the get go. you'll be good. I didn't get the VOLVO process until I was into the job. I started with Haynes and forum help.

Don't skip this step

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on

the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.

Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise,

then back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond.

With the marks lined up, before you do anything else, mark EVERYTHING. That'll be your proof later

I found the volvo instructions but they were confusing to me for doing the hard parts, like resetting the timing. I ended up reading about 5 different write ups before I started to understand how I should do it. I didnt do the 1/4 turn past then back up on mine and its running great. That instruction is probably so you are against the camshaft locking tool under the starter.

Oh and you cant really mark everything. Because there is no key for the cam wheel to fit plus the VVT moves anyways. And you have to move the 8mm bolts anyways to dial them in, thats about the only part you could mark. But its not gonna do you any good. Not sure how you marked everything in place unless you just removed the timing belt and not the cam wheels. Its one of those things you have to set from scratch every time you do it, well only if you are doing the cam seals. Otherwise its as easy as the IPD vid shows.