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Sachs 707


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I have some questions about the 707.

1. Re-pinning is required. Does this mean that the bolt holes match up and you just need to have the pins moved or do you have to have the bolt holes created as well?

Ok, so it was only one question.

Does anyone have some pictures they could share? Ben?

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Yes, the dowels need to be relocated and extra holes are drilled and tapped. I appologize for the poor quality but it is all that I had available on my phone.

8FC76E98-CD1D-4971-AB82-41AF67C84967-502

C942DFA3-2771-418A-A023-31E5CDE1BDA6-502

You can see the original holes there ^^^

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hmmm.. looks interesting.. when would be a good point to install one? in other words, when does the R clutch kit become useless?

depends on a few things like drive style, hp/tq, lsd and slicks.

for a street car the r clutch is good for 350whp/400ftlb if you know how to drive. Put slicks on and kiss that sucker good bye.

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Thanks Ben. If I set the drill depth on my bench drill press so I remove the same amount of metal for all the pins is this something I can do in my garage?

hmmm.. looks interesting.. when would be a good point to install one? in other words, when does the R clutch kit become useless?

At my point.

It will hold if I shift into the gear and then lay into it but if I am in a quick shift situation it cannot hold between the gears. Meaning, instead of barking or spinning the tires it will slip till it grabs.

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John I think it's definitely doable in your garage! You just need to make sure to measure carefully so the pressure plate is centered. On my flywheel you can see that it says "radius=5." I never measured anything but I betcha they weren't just doodling ;)

I can send you more detailed shots when I get home and take some measurements for you if that helps.

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I would be doubtful about DIY redrilling/pinning for a 707 PP. If you are off by a cunt-hair, the vibration & damage potential for that assy. to take off will be spectacular (and not in a fun way). Once material is removed, you'll need the entire rotating assy. balanced - you can see where they marked the install spot, it's that way for a good reason. I think you want a professional to do this.

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I wouldnt think balancing would be needed if you used the same pins and removed the same amount of material in each hole.

Couldnt the PP be bolted in place then position the drill in the pin hole where it needs to go and punch the hole? I am saying to drill the pin hole with the PP attached.

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I would be doubtful about DIY redrilling/pinning for a 707 PP. If you are off by a cunt-hair, the vibration & damage potential for that assy. to take off will be spectacular (and not in a fun way). Once material is removed, you'll need the entire rotating assy. balanced - you can see where they marked the install spot, it's that way for a good reason. I think you want a professional to do this.

You had me at cunt hair. :lol:

I agree with the suggestion of balancing as well.

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John, for what its worth it cost me 75 bucks to have a flywheel redrilled/tapped and repinned. It was all done on a cnc and is dead nuts perfect, in my opinion its worth the money.



I wouldnt think balancing would be needed if you used the same pins and removed the same amount of material in each hole.

Couldnt the PP be bolted in place then position the drill in the pin hole where it needs to go and punch the hole? I am saying to drill the pin hole with the PP attached.

Even if this could be done i would not encourage it, the pins are to locate the pressure plate and the bolts are to only hold it onto the flywheel, the pins should be installed first since they secure tightly into the pressure plate to locate it, where as the bolts fit somewhat loose in the holes.

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Not only were the pins moved but the bolt pattern is different too.

That makes all the difference. I was thinking the bolt pattern lined up but the pins did not. I thought if I could mount the PP down in place with the bolts I could simply drill the pins. I wont even give it a second thought now.

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