mune237 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Damn Main Page got me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 My XC70 5254t2 has dual vvt so I was going to turn it over to my shop instead of tackling it myself. Thanks for the video. How hard is this IN the car though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Just in time for this new engine not sure if I really need this since im removing the cams and everything to send the head off, but at least i saw how to remove the timing belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Your shop should have no problem doing it in the car, you need to get a few things out of the way on the backside of the engine, like the torque mount, bracket, vacuum lines and a few wires. Pretty self explanatory though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I'm rethinking sending it out now. Any excuse to buy new tools, and since I now have three post 98 engines to support (01-v70 301k, 03xc70 200k, and 12 S60T6 70k) I suppose its going to be better to bite the bullet and just DO it myself. Your shop should have no problem doing it in the car, you need to get a few things out of the way on the backside of the engine, like the torque mount, bracket, vacuum lines and a few wires. Pretty self explanatory though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 It's really not too hard, if you hit any snags just shoot me a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Muchos grassy ass! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I'm rethinking sending it out now. Any excuse to buy new tools, and since I now have three post 98 engines to support (01-v70 301k, 03xc70 200k, and 12 S60T6 70k) I suppose its going to be better to bite the bullet and just DO it myself. pm mike flyfishing on where to get a set of tools made for us and maybe a set of cam seal press tools too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livens Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 First off, thanks and great video! I have a 2003 S40, and my CVVT Hub was leaking oil out of the plunger. At 116k it was due a timing belt too, and being covered in oil wasn't helping it. I have everything tore down and degreased, new water pump and tensionar/idler. Since I was pulling the CVVT anyway I decided to replace the cam seals too, so both the CVVT hub and standard cam gear were removed. I have the cams locked from the rear with a cam locking tool. I have 2 questions about the CVVT Gear: 1. In your video you show how the CVVT Hub is spring loaded and can move 10° or so by hand. My old CVVT Hub wouldn't budge once I had the belt off. And the new one seems the same, I cannot rotate it. It spun freely when positioning the hub, but once I torqued it down to 88ft/lb no movement. I see in your video you have a 5 cyl. engine, mine is a 4 cyl 1.9l turbo. Are the hubs on my engine different? 2. My new CVVT gear did not have a timing mark on it. Also I read online and in the Haynes manual that upon replacing the CVVT Hub you should leave the new hub loose, then put the timing belt on and tension it, THEN slowly torque the hub down to 88ft/lb. Does this sound right? 2.5 Quick question. In my Haynes manual it clearly states to torque the CVVT Hub down to 60ft/lb. But I have read in several online sources that it should be 88ft/lb. Usually online an article will only state that its for an S40, but that could be a newer 2005+ model. Could it be that 2004 and prior used 60ft/lb, and after that it was changed to 88ft/lb? Can you please confirm the correct torque? Thanks, Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 Jeremy, Sorry, I should have addressed the first gen S/V40's (2000-2004 in the US) as they utilize a different CVVT hub. Your observations are correct, the CVVT hub DOES NOT rotate, it's a fixed unit. You only need to adjust the hub so that the belt can be slipped on and you're good to go. The new hubs do not come with timing marks, you'll need to make these once the final installation has been completed. Usually on these models I lightly torque the center bolt, install the new belt, and then do the final torque at 88 ft/lbs. For others reading this thread the second gen S40, also know as the P1 chassis which includes the 2004.5- S40, 2004.5- V50, 2006- C70 and 06- C30 also utilize a fixed hub that does not rotate when the center bolt has been torqued. The hub looks slightly different than the first gens, but is installed in the exact same fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livens Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Thanks Ihatespeedbumps, I was hoping that was the case. And it makes getting the timing right alot easier too! I went ahead and finished up the TB replacement, and with the help of this video and alot of other articles online it was a complete success! She started right up and ran smooth. I read others who said that when torquing the CVVT Hub that it would move on them, but I didn't experience that. Just make sure you tension the TB first, and then SLOWLY tighten down the hub. Don't try too rush it or it might move and bunch up the TB between the 2 gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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