DAYWALKER Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 to all that have rebuild their motor. what type of driving is best to break in a motor and how long until you switch to synthetic oil. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 I think conventional wisdom is to drive the car quite hard using conventional oil. The rings seem to seat better and you will be rewarded with better compression. After 2-4k change the oil. You can probably go synthetic after this point. Will be a happy engine for lots of miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 ^^^^That, plus lots of engine braking. Hold it in 2nd or 3rd gear going down a long steep grade. I think most people do conventional oil on the break-in just because it is cheaper. There isn't any real scientific reason that synthetic isn't a good break in oil anymore, other than the money factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 1K is good enough. Just google "new engine break-in" and you will get the recommendations of: - varying speeds on highway. IMHO, I'd change the oil after 1K. This only applies if you have done full rebuild (new bearings, rings etc.). Changing only the head does not apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 There is some argument that synthetic oil is too slippery to let the rings seat properly on a total rebuild. For modern exotic cars the recommendation is dino then synthetic. Also, drive hard after the first few miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimka18 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 When i rebuilt my motor in my 855R i ran conventional oil for 500 miles then changed it. Ran conv 2nd time for 1k miles then switched to full syn. Dont do hard driving first 500 miles. keep under 3k. But do alot of engine breaking. For boosted cars its not good to drive hard right after rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Dino oil is/was recommended since it has better bonding ability to trap contaminates. In some sense you want wear to happen since you are trying to get the rings to seat with the bore. All personal preference though, some will even say just beat the hell out of it and don't worry. Read what you want and make your own personal choice based on everyone's opinions. This is only for when you replace rings and bearings on a bottom end rebuild. Any other work done will not need a "break in period". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 I have broken in 2 engines now, and have done them both the same way and had no issue.Current one used break-in oil, but you can just run regular oil for it. Special oil is never cheap.I did 500 miles for both before the engines ever saw boost. I also tried to avoid the freeway for the constant RPM. Better to run the car around town because it forces you to vary RPMs.I kept it under 4000 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevenlnNY Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 After having built many an engine, foreign & dom...my consensus with DYNO time to show on quite a few; Conventional oil only (break-in) Varied engine speeds keep everything lubed, while engine braking whether it be manual or auto, aids in seating bearings Oil change after 2500 RPM camshaft break-in period is HIGHLY recommended and also due to the use of engine assembly lube. 2nd oil change @ 500 miles wconv oil 3rd oil change @1500 assures you've "washed" all metal filingshavings and debris. 4th oil change would be with a proven Syn oil such as Mobil 1 ©, Delvac 1 © or Rotella T6© Below is a article worth the read; "Mobil 1 vs. Mobil Delvac 1 for a Gasoline Engine I have read on the Internet that Mobil Delvac 1 oils may provide better performance in high-performance passenger-car engines than regular Mobil 1, since they meet CF-4 specs. What about using Delvac in gasoline engines, especially high-performance engines? Mobil 1 formulas will deliver everything you need for your gasoline engine. In fact, during development, tests are run in both gasoline and diesel engines to demonstrate the outstanding performance of Mobil 1.Mobil Delvac 1 ESP, which is designed for heavy-duty diesels, meets most diesel engine oil specifications, and also meets API SM certification. And because Mobil Delvac 1 ESP operates in a different environment – diesel engines run longer, generate soot and run hotter, it contains different types and amounts of additives than Mobil 1. Even so, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP still meets API SM certification for gasoline engines, and because of its high performance, we would expect it to do a good job of protecting your gasoline engine. If you use your gasoline vehicle in "heavy-duty" service, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP will provide many benefits compared to conventional oils. When compared to Mobil 1 performance, those benefits may not be as obvious, and in fact, Mobil 1 would be expected to outperform Mobil Delvac 1 in many gasoline applications." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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