sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 So I just finished my swap this weekend and I did a few finishing things today like bleed the clutch and jump the thick green/green and red pnp wires. But now when I go to start it it just cranks forever. Its getting fuel but no spark. I took a plug out and tried to get it to jump to the engine to no avail. I also tested the wires leading to the coil by grounding one of the terminals on the coil to the negative terminal of the battery (11.83 volts when ignition in on position). The coil wire has a fair bit of corrosion on it (blue stuff) but i can get it to read 600-800 ohms impedance IIRC. Could my coil have gone bad in the two weeks it was out of service or could there be something else i'm missing? The only wiring ive done so far is the pnp green wires because I just want to try and start it. There is one white plug (seen below) that used to connect to the auto that is currently unplugged. Do I have to do something with it? Also I currently have a ard green tune for an auto but I don't think that should be a problem from what I have read. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 edit: found out I had the TCV plug plugged into the crank sensor (they have the same plug type) so I switched it but still no start... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 No spark points to cam sensor. Check to make sure tht sensor is plugged in correctly and to the correct location. Also you may need to switch the polarity on your crank sensor depending on what flywheel you used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I think I got the cam sensor right. Pic below. I used a square peg flywheel and I seem to remember hearing somewhere that I don't need to reverse it because of that. Do you happen to know the rules regarding that or anywhere I can find the info? I tried searching but didn't find anything except for the parts bible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 like mentioned, you may need to reverse polarity on the flywheel sensor....it's just 2 wires...switch them around and give it a shot. have you checked behind the rotor to make sure you put the plate on in the correct position? have you checked orientation of the cam sensor? the plate back there can go on upside down and put timing off by 180 degrees.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 like mentioned, you may need to reverse polarity on the flywheel sensor....it's just 2 wires...switch them around and give it a shot. have you checked behind the rotor to make sure you put the plate on in the correct position? have you checked orientation of the cam sensor? the plate back there can go on upside down and put timing off by 180 degrees.... Ill give switching it a try after class. As far as the cam sensor I didn't remove it during the swap, just unplugged it. That's what your referring to (cam sensor) when you say check behind the rotor right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 The crank sensor connector comes apart so you can easily swap polarity there is a thread with images around here somewhere from vadis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Reversed polarity. Still just cranks forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Check the obvious first, fuel pressure? Spark? Cables, fuses...flooded perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Getting fuel, no spark, fuses good, checking on cables but I'm pretty sure I got em all. Plugs out now to air it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 I'm in the same boat but with a 2000 car. Here is the flywheel info, although it doesn't sound like you need to swap the wires, it's worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 yeah I did swap the wires and it made no difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98glt-5 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Was there any corrosion on the bell housing of the transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdancer Posted April 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 been so song since I had it out of the car but IIRC the mating surface between the trans and the engine was clean but it was an old transmission so obviously it had a weathered look. Are you thinking about the ground on the transmission not successfully grounding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98glt-5 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Yeah I had that happen with my swap. Would crank for hours sometimes. BUT if i pop started it it would fire right up. Something about the starter back-feeding and screwing with the crank signal. Took the trans off and ground off all the corrosion and it fixed the problem. When I was checking spark from the coil i'd only get a few random sparks at the beginning then nothing after that. Edit: And I also tried to ground it with extra grounding wires, and ground the starter right to the battery, wouldn't help. It was only after I cleaned all the corrision off that it would start with the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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