850T5M Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Hey guys, A few months ago, during the winter I noticed my car leaking some engine oil...maybe a little drop every time I parked my car. This week I noticed bigger puddles, maybe 4" wide on the street where I park it and some oil splashed on my trunk... I brought it to my friends garage, and the entire underside of the motor is covered with oil, we cleaned it out but cant get a good idea of where the oil is coming from. I'll give you guys an idea of where its coming from, and maybe you can give me some ideas lol Oil is on the driver side (transmission side). There is absolutely no oil leaking from the oil pan, turbo or oil cooler lines. The two cam's have no oil around them either. There's little to no oil on the top of the engine...except for maybe a bit in the spark plug area, but this could be from me spilling oil when I put it in :-/ The only thing I can think of left is the RMS, but i'm praying this is not the case...is there anything else on the driver side of the engine where these cars leak oil? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Unless you've done it already: Remove the ign cap and the CPS to get a better look at possible rear cam seals leak. Hope to find the leaks on them as RMS leak is a lot more work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Are you positive it's oil and not trans fluid? Check your trans lines. Check the rms weep hole http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=643179 (3 pics down) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 It's really hard to see, as there is oil all over the engine, like badly The oil is black/brown and my engine oil is constantly low...car has no problems getting in/out of gears, so I'd assume its not transmission oil I really don't think its the cams, as there is no oil under them. If i pass my hand under the cams, theres just dry dirt and oil. The RMS weep hole is pretty much full of oil, but so is the rest of the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Here's a bad picture...after I used two cans of brake cleaner on the underside of the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 I'd say RMS as well. The oil above the RMS can be caused by the flywheel slinging oil around the bellhousing. But definitely double check the cam seals at the transmission side. Remove the distributor and cam position sensor, you definitely want to double check the easy ones before you tear into a rear main seal job. A dirty PCV system could have blown one of the seals out. That's a lot of oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Rear main seal....bummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Alright, looks like I'll be doing a RMS job soon I guess while I'm there, I should change out my stock clutch...I'm running what it says in my sig, what should i change my stock 850 turbo clutch for? Is the 850R clutch much better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Have you checked you cams yet? Also is the PCV system 100%? As that can cause the RMS to leak. I dropped my RMS leak from 1Qt every 1k miles to about 3k miles. Just be changing around oil grades and fixing my PVC system. Been running like this for 2yrs. Also I used bahr RMS treatment just for fun haha I just have not had time to get it to work and put it on the lift... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I havent pulled out the cam sensor, as I'm not sure how too...but I did check the exterior of the cam housing, like under the distributor and under the sensor one, and there was no sign of oil... For the amount of oil that is leaking on the floor, and under the motor, there should be an obvious amount coming out of the cams. As for my PCV system, I had changed all the lines about 2.5 years ago / 25000km ago...so it should be perfectly fine. I'm currently running some High Mileage oil crap in the car...as I read that it swells the seals and helps prevent leaky seals in the engine...hasn't helped i guess lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamdrives Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 2.5 years is a long time on a 19 year old, possibly not tuned up car. I would check it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Unless you did the PCV yourself then it could have been done incorrectly like most are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I havent pulled out the cam sensor, as I'm not sure how too...but I did check the exterior of the cam housing, like under the distributor and under the sensor one, and there was no sign of oil... For the amount of oil that is leaking on the floor, and under the motor, there should be an obvious amount coming out of the cams. As for my PCV system, I had changed all the lines about 2.5 years ago / 25000km ago...so it should be perfectly fine. I'm currently running some High Mileage oil crap in the car...as I read that it swells the seals and helps prevent leaky seals in the engine...hasn't helped i guess lol I'll bet my $ on rear cams. It won't be obvious externally and yes it can mess up the underside that bad while engine is running even when the leak is small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I'll bet my $ on rear cams. It won't be obvious externally and yes it can mess up the underside that bad while engine is running even when the leak is small. So how do I go about checking them? How does the distributor come off (sorry I haven't looked at it)...I'll assume there's a screw to remove? Then the other side is a sensor with a few screws, just remove them and that's it? Does anything pop out that I should know of, so I don't lose anything lol? Unless you did the PCV yourself then it could have been done incorrectly like most are. I did the pcv myself, but how do I know if it's done correctly? 2.5 years is a long time on a 19 year old, possibly not tuned up car. I would check it. The car was fully stage "0" at that time as well. Since then I've done minor maintenance like clean the air filter, check the plugs, oil changes...how do I check the pcv? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 So how do I go about checking them? How does the distributor come off (sorry I haven't looked at it)...I'll assume there's a screw to remove? Then the other side is a sensor with a few screws, just remove them and that's it? Does anything pop out that I should know of, so I don't lose anything lol?There's nothing really special about removing the dist. cap or the CPS. Three flathead screws hold the distributor cap on. If you do have to remove the wires, be sure to label them so you can re-attach them in the right order. But I think it can be done without removing them. http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/engine_repairs/plug_wiring_sparkplugs.htmlThe CPS is two torx screws. Be certain you have the right size bit and they'll come right out. Beware that sometimes it is easy to think you have the right size bit, but you are 1 step undersized. Getting the ratchet in there is about the only tricky part. After the bolts are removed, just pry it back and it should pop off. It has a small pigtail with an electric connector that you can disconnect, but I'd skip that step if you can. Try not to bang that sensor around too much. I gently knocked my old one and it stopped working.If the CPS stops working, the car will not start. It will crank forever. Crank it for ~15 seconds and it will set a code you can retrieve (at least on OBD-II cars). Check the contacts of the connector first for positive fit and clean connection. If that doesn't do it, I was able to get mine to work by wacking the case with a wrench but I can't promise that is standard procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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