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Boxpin On The Dyno


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Congrats! Are you using 850R clutch? If so any slippage at current power levels?

Stock internals?

R clutch, I could smell rubber but not clutch

H-beams

Yea, maybe switching up the boost control method to a manual or after market electronic setup would be your best bet. Although it is probably possible to get it to work correctly on the current setup, its hard without them being able to change the tune and see the results immediately

I might do that, at least it would eliminate the boost management as a suspect.

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Solid numbers, did we really tune that past 7500 RPM...?

Doesn't sound like 7500 in the vid, and that graph looks like a 20G on a whiteblock going up to 6000, not 7500. I bet they had the dyno setup to read rpm for a 4 cylinder.

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Doesn't sound like 7500 in the vid, and that graph looks like a 20G on a whiteblock going up to 6000, not 7500. I bet they had the dyno setup to read rpm for a 4 cylinder.

I told the guy to go to 7000 but he didnt, its like a bit over 6000.

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Doesn't sound like 7500 in the vid, and that graph looks like a 20G on a whiteblock going up to 6000, not 7500. I bet they had the dyno setup to read rpm for a 4 cylinder.

Check the in-car video from the run, you can see the tach.. I think you are exactly right.

This also would mean the "hiccup" on the plot around 5500 is actually at 4500.

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Check the in-car video from the run, you can see the tach.. I think you are exactly right.

This also would mean the "hiccup" on the plot around 5500 is actually at 4500.

I agree, seems like 4500 is where it happens. It pulls then releases then pulls hard.

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I dyno'd later in the evening and paid for one pull. It also showed it rev'd to 7500 and everyone watching went wait a minute, that is wrong. They had it calibrated wrong and after we pointed that out, fixed it. Then they had to give me another free pull because the first one was wrong.

1st pull

240 hp - 220 tq

2nd pull

240 hp - 283tq

So the hp numbers were still accurate but when it got recalibrated, my tq went way up like it should be with my setup. The rpm was also where it should be. Then it was like hey, if they have been doing it this way the whole time, what happened to people before me? So I would believe hp numbers are probably accurate just based on my car having it done both ways, the only thing that changed was tq.

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I agree, seems like 4500 is where it happens. It pulls then releases then pulls hard.

Look at the boost gauge at around the 39-40 second mark of the in car video. You can definitely see the needle dip momentarily and then recover. I'd bet it's a boost control issue. I had the exact same problem (hp dropped and then recovered) when I was on the dyno. I could also feel the exact thing you're feeling when driving the car.

I log my boost (along with other parameters) and I swear if I were to overlay my boost log on top of my dyno graph, it would line up perfectly. Going to an EBC was the fix for me. I haven't been back to the dyno, but the logs clearly show the huge improvement in boost control.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We are learning that they did not have the dyno setup correctly for our cars that day. HP is accurate but most of the other settings are off. It was not identified till later in the evening.

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