Brad850 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 When you installed the rods, did you just re-use the old pistons/old rings and slide them back in? If so, I'm thinking about doing this when I do my manual swap. New HG and head bolts doesn't sound too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I have yet to put them in, I was going to put them in my other engine but I will be putting them in the engine in the car. But yes that is what I will be doing, stock pistons, I will get new std rings probably, and new rod bearings obviously. Head studs from volvo, gaskets and i will do NA cams, intake manifold, and R manifold at the same time since I have them anyway, I just haven't bothered installing them yet because I figure ill do it all at once. But my goals are modest compared to some, so I don't think a full rebuild is required as nice as it would be to do one. Cheers, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Some more pictures for everyone. I had a noise ever since I last took the car to the drags, Turns out the drivers side axle was fried. Here are some pics of the carnage, the retaining clip for the bearing let go, all the needle bearings fell out, and as you can see that created quite a bit of play.. lol Anyway moral of the story never replace perfectly good volvo axles that need boots with surtrac axles...but you already know that. I have a used one in there now that is working well. But hey, It wouldn't be a good week if the drivers wheel bearing went too right? At least the bolts didn't need penetrating fluid... So now it has new brakes all around and a new wheel bearing too. But I did score some things at least! mint V70 hatch and taillights with the axle for $200 anyone? I'll take it! Compared to the old lights with the old hatch still on, the V70 ones look so much fresher... Looking forward to getting it painted in the spring and having a green car again. This arrived yesterday too! To be installed next week. I'm pretty well set for winter now. Might try to find some big driving lights to mount on it still, but otherwise I feel pretty good. Next summer will be GREAT. Last but not least I picked up some decepticon center caps for my winter rims, they're silly but they were cheap and I prefer them to just having gray caps. (no pics yet) And to finish it off some of my favorite pictures of the car done up instagram style, because its easy and I like the way it turns out, even if they are iphone pictures. Enjoy, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 So in other news... I will be working on that all winter probably. Also, my friend gave me this: Switchblade style key. My car does not use an immobilizer, so all I need to do to make it work is get a blank from volvo and get it cut to my vin... not sure if I will be able to get the keyless working or not but I think the switchblade key will be cool regardless. I'll keep everyone updated, cheers Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 With regards to the switchblade key, I know "Kilroy" got the buttons to work on his 98 Rs. He sent me a PM with an explanation when I asked him about it, but I deleted it by mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 I would be interested to see that, oh well. At least if I know it has been done, I know I can find a way! Thanks for that, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan850-t5 Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 great work, I followed your advice about the ta coilovers and ended up getting some of those afco 8'' 300lb springs instead of the ones that come with the coils. haven't installed them yet but the roads around here suck and i dont do a whole lot of spirited driving so the softer ride should be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 It is a MILLION times better. Still has great road feel, but it now absorbs the big shocks which is what the ta's had a terrible time doing before. If you are still on the fence after the install, try a set of stock or equivalent rear shocks, that helps a bunch too... But the fronts were by far the biggest improvement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Installed my wideband today, car idles between 14.1-14.9 At 3/4 throttle it likes low 11's At full throttle 10.0... Looks like I have some fuel work to do. At least I know I'm not leaning out! On a second note, maybe I'll just give it more air instead hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Alright so yesterday I installed some spot lights on the front wrc style, over 7 inches in diameter each light lol. I love princess auto (basically the Canadian harbor freight) $9 a light.. Hard to beat!! I will post some pics later. Also, simply volvo has been incredibly helpful to me helping me get a good tune on the car, it is coming along great! I have afrs in the 11's now and 12 degrees of timing. It feels strong, but at the moment I have either a boost leak or my wastegate is out of adjustment, as even using mbc I get a spike to 15 psi and it drops to 14 and down to 13 psi by redline in third, I cannot get the boost to get to my target of 18psi. Oh well! I will play with my actuator tommarow, and maybe do a boost leak test, my IAC set up for the winter is pretty sketchy so that could be a leak, but I have good vacuum etc. at idle so hard to say. Hopefully I can get it sorted, more later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Alright here's the lights:x As you can probably see I also removed the R bumper for this winter. Don't feel like tearing the lip off the bottom, it's already cracked like most of them and in the winter I drive through stuff not around it so it wouldn't be wise to leave on... Hopefully the fmic will be ok, but if not that just means a bigger one next year lol enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 So I know these pictures suck, But just to give an idea of what I am planning with the supercharger. I have the location set up now, I just need to make brackets, some adapters for the piping, play around with some different belts, and figure out the dipstick. I am going to use an ME7manifold, and run the blower into the manifold from the bottom. the turbo will feed the intercooler just as it does now, and then from the intercooler into the rear of the blower, and up into the manifold. Im tossing around the idea of ditching the turbo all together on the next engine and making an "S5" lol but I am not sure yet. Cheers, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Been working more with the blower. Got an ME7 manifold and blue injectors, here are some pics so people may get a better idea of my intentions; As a couple notes, the blower is not mounted, the idler pulley in the picture was just for belt alignment i borrowed it from the timing belt set up, and this is not the engine that will be run in the car. I am still undetermined on whether or not I will use the ME7 manifold, as through reading it appears more difficult to use with a cable actuated set up. I wanted to use it for simplicity of charge pipe routing, as you can see the blower outlet lines up almost perfect with the inlet on the ME7 manifold, but If I will need to make an adapter plate I will probably lose to much space between blower and throttle body so i won't bother. I may instead use the NA mani I have kicking around and mount the blower sideways, which would then allow for the air to get intercooled before entering the throttle body, assuming I have clearance between the blower and subframe. I will have to see next time I see my car, It is in storage at the moment. If anyone has any experience mounting an ME7 manifold on a M4.3 or M4.4 car with cable throttle I would appriciate some tips, I would like to use it if possible just to make for a cleaner install and save some piping, thanks for any input. Cheers, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt b Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Wow, I hope it works. What is the blower off of ? Has anyone done this before ? I feel like Johann had done once already. Nice work, still looks like you have a ways to go but I'mn interested in seeing more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Lol yeah definently much more to go. The blower is off a Pontiac Grand Prix gtp, eaton M90. Johann made one with a centrifugal blower if I am not mistaken, a vortec unit on an NA engine. This set up will be more similar to the one claymore uses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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