woah4 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Current Plans Are as follows: Rods in, Gt3076, internally wastegated, kinugawa actuator, V band R manifold NA intake Mani with TB and 960 Plate 650cc bosch injectors Warlboro 255 RN oil pan and water pipe with Oil cooler NA cams Bigger FMIC, with 3 inch piping WOTBOX Welded Diff 225 Hoosier drag radials spec stage 3+ Catch can, copper pcv plumbing? Valve cover gold powder coat Intake mani Black powder coat silicone rad hoses Headlight wiper delete, AC delete, Heater core delete, Cruise delete, stock intercooler removed, power steering delete? hood pins? Willwood BBK (if I get around to it) Racing buckets for driver and passenger any other weight savings I can think of that wont effect the structural rigidity of the car. Cheers Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 What about piston rings? Rod bearings? Main bearings? WOTBOX? You mean launch control? Welded diff on a FWD car? I hope you have a good trailer cause you'll have to tow the car to the strip... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 My plan is to tow the car anyway. All it is really for now is straight lines. If I decide in the future I want to try something else I'll toss in a different M56 or maybe invest in a quaife at that point. And yes as far as the wot box I meant launch control, either using a wotbox or one of the msd systems, I am also interested in the one simplyvolvo is developing but I would like the ability to adjust it without flashing the car. And yes new stock piston rings with a hone, new rod bearings (currently exploring my options) mains will stay put. Not touching them at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Fwdgtp put down a 1/4 mile time of 12.76 iirc with out a LSD or welded diff. I would just leave it alone so it's driveable anywhere. He was running a hybrid 18g And e85... With drag radials and stiff rear suspension you should hook up good enough for a 13 I would think.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Well I guess. I don't know. Is it the E85 that really makes that big of a difference? I'm trying to understand why his car was so much faster than pretty much everything else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timbo Slice Posted May 8, 2014 Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 Short answer, yes. His car was faster because it was an E85 car running an 18G, worlds different than a 93 octane on a 19T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2014 What about Russell mojica though? Didn't he run 12's on a 19T auto 850? I should be able to get a high 12 out of it with the gt30 I would imagine if I get traction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2014 More Progress. Been having connection issues and was not able to upload pictures but here they are, so far the head is off, pan is off, rods and pistons are out. The 19T is sold already, and I am only a few items away from starting to piece this thing back together. Still on the fence between 3076 and 3582, but otherwise everything looks good. Going to try and clean this bay up a little also. Cyl. 1 Cyl. 2 Cyl. 3 Cyl. 4 Cyl. 5 Took the oil pan to the eye. Yes I had safety glasses on at the time. No that was not Pleasant. TA's did really well with their first winter... Not. Anyway thats where I'm at for now. If anyone has any thoughts on the turbo idea I do appriciate it. Cheers, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2014 Glyco sputter rod bearings ordered. Also found out why I was having boost issues, the first coupler that comes off the turbo info the ote pipe was split in multiple places under the clamp. I did not expect this because it was pretty much brand new and nothing happened to it, but at any rate I guess that's why I could never get more than 12psi. Wish I knew that before I stripped it all down, lol. On another note I now have a much nicer fmic, it will have 3 inch piping which I still have to get but the core size is WAY bigger. I also installed a racing seat on the drivers side, haven't done the passenger side yet because I've been lazy but I will soon. That's basically where I'm at for now! I'll post pics of the fmic and seat later. Cheers Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 I realize that it is a terrible photo but I was so excited that I just had to post it anyway, the rods and pistons are now matched, everything is moving nicely, the only one that worries me is that on the 5th assembly the wrist pin moves with the piston, whereas on the others it moves with the rods, anyway they all seem to move freely so I'm not overly concerned. Better pics later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2014 Some Better Pictures, Rod Bearings should be here this week, Coming from Rock Auto I hope they arent damaged, I have read some unfortunate stories on here but I have not had a bad experience with them yet so we shall see. My Nice New Big Front mount! And my first seat Installed Seats Are A little beat up but they were free, and are WAY lighter. Not sure if this thread should be in "performance" or "show room" but If someone wants to move it go ahead I guess. Thats all Ive got for now! more soon Cheers, Billy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Ok more today, Rods and Pistons will be in by the end of the weekend, hopefully with the head back on by the end of next week. Front Mount installed, I adjusted it for a cleaner and higher fit since I took this picture, Both seats are in now, 68Lbs lighter than the T5R seats Probably gonna miss this, oh well, Instantly worth it. Glyco Sputter Rod Bearings, Installed, And just in case you wondered what all the red stuff was. More soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Those rods/bearings are not assembled correctly. Read up about bearing crush. I can almost guarantee you that you would spin a bearing immediately if you installed them like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Alright so what should I be doing differently here then? installing the top bearing flush and leaving the cap bearing with an even amount on both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 The amount the bearing sticks out on both sides is called 'crush'. You need to make sure that the crush is centered - sticking out on both sides; it is easiest to feel with a fingernail. When tightened the crush provides the radial clamping force which keeps the bearing in place. In your picture the crush is off center, so when you tighten it down it will either distort the bearing or not provide the clamping to hold the bearing in place. Also, you never lubricate the backside of bearing, that is sure to cause a spun bearing. You want to make sure the back of the bearing and the journal of rod are completely clean before assembly. Use brake clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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