850 Delta Link Tool/puller

[Tightmopedman9]

You should throw these in there while you're down there:

http://www.mpre.se/?product=bakaxel-konsoler

I think they make spherical rod end delta links too, but theyre not on their website.

[nocturnal7x]

You should throw these in there while you're down there:

http://www.mpre.se/?product=bakaxel-konsoler

I think they make spherical rod end delta links too, but theyre not on their website.

yea looks like imma have to replace them too as this sucker didn't fix my issue. Any reason to go with those over OEM?

Here is what happened today, I was able to complete this. It was a pita but not as bad as I thought. Turns out, just keep cranking the puller and eventually it will pop the endlink out.

HOWEVER this is what I screwed up the first time, there is a metal thing you have to get out from inside the endlink, I just yanked the trailing arm down.

NOW you can continue cranking the puller to rip the endlink out, and yea, it looks to yank the guts out of the endlink, just keep cranking, mine came out in one piece:

Eventually this happens:

Used a 2x4 to keep the arm low enough that I could hammer the new endlink in:

I had to file the new endlink to make it fit, I filed it little by little and soaked it in silicon spray and eventually I was able to hammer it all the way in:

After that was in I had to get the endlink into the bolt sleeve above it. I had to unbolt the shock from the lower nut so I could move the arm more easily. put a jack under the spring so it doesn't pop out. It was a little tricky pulling back on the rear brake caliper to line up the endlink with the bolt sleeve AND jack the jack to raise it into the hole. BUT I was able to do it by myself.

This is a little tricky but do able. Now I need to replace those inner endlink things

[Tightmopedman9]

I'm really not sure what the benefit would be with those spherical ends except for camber adjustment. I would assume less play, but I'm not sure how much play there is in the stock hardware.

[castconcrete]

Thanks for the follow through with the additional photos.

In your follow-up you mention the "metal thing" to be removed from inside the endlink. Are you referring to the body pin, as in you did not pry endlink off of the body pin in your first attempt, or is there something else that needs to be removed from the endlink itself?

The photo in your first post makes it look as if you did not have the endlink pried off of the body pin.

Why did you elect to not use the tool to press the new endlink back into the arm...you mention that you hammered the new link into the delta arm?

And, from everything I have read, there is no mention of the need to loosen the shock when the arm with the new link is raised back over the body pin. There is mention of loosening the shock and removing the coil spring for replacing the transverse arm bushings, but I thought that for this repair the delta arm with the new link installed would just swivel up and onto the body pin once the 2 x 4 was removed.

Finally, what are the symptoms that you were correcting with this repair? You said that you are moving on to the transverse arm bushings, so I am interested to hear what it is that you thought the endlink replacement would cure which did not happen for you.

Thanks again for sharing your experiences.

[lcc014]

Even if you loan it from Matthew Volvo, you pay for shipping. So it will cost you some dollars anyway.

So I'd buy it for $125 (website link above), use it then sell it to another person here for $100.

So you lose only $25.

Then the next person sells it for $75 LOL...

PS: Or you can fabricate your own..., see this UK website:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=76405

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The German website Skandix sells this for $65 Euros...

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/accessories/tools/tools-suspension-steering/fitting-tool-suspension-bushing-rear-axle/1018424/

That is great; I didn't know that people fabricate this tool by themselves. This Volvo tool is doing 2 things - pulling the old bushing out and then pushing the new bushing back into the arm. When I did mine, I bought this tool from Volvo dealer. Back then, it was under $100. It took a tremendous pressure/force to pull the old one out. Finally, old bushing popped out but the tool was bent a tiny bit that it could not push the new bushing all the way in .... Volvo version was a beefy one - thick screw rod and heavy. It still be bent during the old bushing removal. Also, the thread on the screw rod was very fine which caused the tool to stuck if it is bent a little bit.

I ended up tapping the new bushing back in using a small socket, extension and hammer around the edge of the new bushing. It went back in all the way but edge of the bushing was not looking good...

anyone have any luck with doing this?

So I got that far, issue is the puller seems to be pulling the link apart, should I just keep going? will it pull the whole thing out? or is this thing coming out in pieces?

Is that ok it it comes out in pieces? will the pieces come out or will they be stuck in there and cause me more issues?

Thanks!

ps. I put the car back together, im gonna re-attempt this tomorrow. Im shot.

I will pop out eventually. I did that too, it came out tiny bit at a time due to the rubber was dry and stuck inside the arm. I kept turning the screw rod ....

[nocturnal7x]

Are you referring to the body pin yes.

Why did you elect to not use the tool to press the new endlink back into the arm...you mention that you hammered the new link into the delta arm? The tool is too short to do the whole job, however I didn't try it after I got the link in there. But to help get the link in the first cm or so the tool would not be useable, its too short.

And, from everything I have read, there is no mention of the need to loosen the shock when the arm with the new link is raised back over the body pin. There is mention of loosening the shock and removing the coil spring for replacing the transverse arm bushings, but I thought that for this repair the delta arm with the new link installed would just swivel up and onto the body pin once the 2 x 4 was removed. I removed the shock from the lower mount to do this.

Finally, what are the symptoms that you were correcting with this repair? You said that you are moving on to the transverse arm bushings, so I am interested to hear what it is that you thought the endlink replacement would cure which did not happen for you. Well with my 225/40R18 tires, on the passenger side they hit the fender. After doing this and seeing how the suspension works, looks like the traverse arm bushing make more sense.

I was hoping it would fix this:

Thats fine though, I learned a lot.

[castconcrete]

I have a great write-up on the transverse arm bushing replacement if needed. Sounds like you will need to drop the new bushing off of the body-pin again...but won't need to pull the bushing of course.

[nocturnal7x]

I have a great write-up on the transverse arm bushing replacement if needed. Sounds like you will need to drop the new bushing off of the body-pin again...but won't need to pull the bushing of course.

If you have a link and its not too much trouble. Otherwise I have a haynes manual, I'm pretty sure its in there.

Thanks either way.

[castconcrete]

I have it saved as a PDF file, and cannot see how to add as an attachment. I would be happy to send it along via email if you would like. I really don't remember where I found it originally or I would provide a link. It is a great write-up with good photos.

[Ruhl98t5wag]

Need to replace the delta links on both cars at my leisure so want to purchase the tool. Will be Tasca at 91.61 unless some one here has finished with theirs and wants to sell it. Thanks for the posts-Phil