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Stoked For My "new" 96 855R..


Volta55

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pretty good for 2K..i personally love the black on black with the steelies. coming from a 02 v40 this thing is a beast.. drove from NH to home in CT and the thing rips on the highway..

never thought "sport mode" would actually work ^_^

(its auto tranny fyi :ph34r: )

my goal is to get it to stage 0 ( i have a bunch of receipts the seller gave me so i will sift through them to see what parts have been replaced )

.. but first i have to pass my emissions to register it ( used car out of state needs an emissions tested in CT )

the only 2 codes i pulled from my 855 via bluetooth OBDII reader are

P0141 o2 Sensor heater circuit ( bank 1 sensor 2 )

P0137 o2 Sensor circuit low voltage ( bank 1 sensor 2 )

is it correct that if i replace the downstream o2 sensor this will most likely solve the problem? another possibility for these CELS is an exhaust leak, and it does sound like i have one..but most likely the sensors.

other problems that i noticed when driving home are:

*pretty strong gasoline smell the entire drive home.. any tips on how to find an fuel leak? if i was smelling it while driving on the highway (especially when i punched it to check for knocks) would that mean that the leak is somewhere in the engine bay/firewall area? maybe fuel rail?

*driver rear window is shot.. luckily i had my brother pull hard up on the window with the switch up for it to creep up ( thankfully before the rain! ) . electrically,i have no idea where to start with that

*abs light/ tracs off light is on (maybe the ABS pump or hopefully just the sensors)

*weather stripping is shot to hell / roof paint clear coat is gone

*when starting/shutting off the motor there is a wicked shake in the engine.. motor mounts/ torque mounts? from what i can remember, it did not have extreme vibrations while idling in drive with brakes applied ; i could be wrong

*maybe its just me being used to my v40, but the pedal feels super stiff.. takes alot of pedal depression to downshift

i know some people will want to bite my head off with this question, but is it worth it and do some seafoam? some people swear by it, others say its terrible for your engine.

cliffnotes: top 2 problems are the o2 sensor codes and gasoline smell... stoked to be bricked

-jordan

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htwrw1.jpg

pretty good for 2K..i personally love the black on black with the steelies. coming from a 02 v40 this thing is a beast.. drove from NH to home in CT and the thing rips on the highway..

never thought "sport mode" would actually work ^_^

(its auto tranny fyi :ph34r: )

my goal is to get it to stage 0 ( i have a bunch of receipts the seller gave me so i will sift through them to see what parts have been replaced )

.. but first i have to pass my emissions to register it ( used car out of state needs an emissions tested in CT )

the only 2 codes i pulled from my 855 via bluetooth OBDII reader are

P0141 o2 Sensor heater circuit ( bank 1 sensor 2 )

P0137 o2 Sensor circuit low voltage ( bank 1 sensor 2 )

is it correct that if i replace the downstream o2 sensor this will most likely solve the problem? another possibility for these CELS is an exhaust leak, and it does sound like i have one..but most likely the sensors.

other problems that i noticed when driving home are:

*pretty strong gasoline smell the entire drive home.. any tips on how to find an fuel leak? if i was smelling it while driving on the highway (especially when i punched it to check for knocks) would that mean that the leak is somewhere in the engine bay/firewall area? maybe fuel rail?

Its most likely the vent or return hose on top of the tank. But before you go replacing them check to see if the recall has been done on the tank heat shield. if it has not been done they will usually replace those lines

*driver rear window is shot.. luckily i had my brother pull hard up on the window with the switch up for it to creep up ( thankfully before the rain! ) . electrically,i have no idea where to start with that

first things first, make sure the windows are "on" then Check to see if you have power to the regulator motor if you do its most likely the regulator. if not its either the local switch or the master switch. A little tip, while your there replace the window rollers..

*abs light/ tracs off light is on (maybe the ABS pump or hopefully just the sensors)

That would be your ABS module, here is the only place to go

*weather stripping is shot to hell / roof paint clear coat is gone

*when starting/shutting off the motor there is a wicked shake in the engine.. motor mounts/ torque mounts? from what i can remember, it did not have extreme vibrations while idling in drive with brakes applied ; i could be wrong

your Hydro mounts are shot

*maybe its just me being used to my v40, but the pedal feels super stiff.. takes alot of pedal depression to downshift

i know some people will want to bite my head off with this question, but is it worth it and do some seafoam? some people swear by it, others say its terrible for your engine.

Seafoam it than do a full Stage 0

cliffnotes: top 2 problems are the o2 sensor codes and gasoline smell... stoked to be bricked

-jordan

Responded in line

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*pretty strong gasoline smell the entire drive home.. any tips on how to find an fuel leak? if i was smelling it while driving on the highway (especially when i punched it to check for knocks) would that mean that the leak is somewhere in the engine bay/firewall area? maybe fuel rail?

Its most likely the vent or return hose on top of the tank. But before you go replacing them check to see if the recall has been done on the tank heat shield. if it has not been done they will usually replace those lines

i will crawl under after work today; what does the fix look like? how can i find out if the recall as been done?

thanks for all the other help matty

EDIT: i called Milford Volvo and they said that my 96 850R never had any recalls on it...

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You don't have to crawl under the car you can check the the hoses from inside the car.remove the carpet and other stuff in the rear compartment and you wll have access to these hoses.Hope this helps

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EDIT: i called Milford Volvo and they said that my 96 850R never had any recalls on it...

Thats the first thing you should do... get all the recalls taken care of.

after that your only looking at about $400 in parts and a few hours of your time.

Oh and BTW you wont be able to see the vent hose with out dropping the tank..

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You don't have to crawl under the car you can check the the hoses from inside the car.remove the carpet and other stuff in the rear compartment and you wll have access to these hoses.Hope this helps

roger that.. thanks

i dont get it.. why would the dealership say there are no recalls for a 1996 850 when all i am reading on the internet is that there IS a recall for the fuel tank

i gave the service guy my VIN and he just said " nope "

im going to try another volvo dealership..

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yeah there is def a fuel take recall, You can even search old posts on here to find out the exact recall #. Just make sure before they do it that they plan to replace those hoses cause the actual recall is for something else (I think its for the gas tank rubber mounts) cause they might not do the hoses when you could have just paid them like $40 and they would have.

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The Rear O2 DTCs will inhibit fuel trim, meaning you may just be running rich.

My guess is the rear O2 is either disconnected or the wiring is fubar.

EVAP-related hoses are definitely a possibility.

There are multiple motor/transmission mounts, all of them like to eventually fail.

- Torque rod on the top of the engine going to the firewall. Twist side to side to check for bad bushings. IPD offers poly bushings that are an easy install.

- Transmission mount, visible by looking underneath the front of the car, it's a torque-rod sort of thing like on top of the motor, but smaller. IPD offers several upgrades for this, including a completely new billet assembly.

- engine mount behind (towards rear of car) engine, visible by looking down and back from above the turbocharger. In my experience the least likely to cause notable problems, but will result in a wobbly feeling when it gets weak.

- "front" engine mount, just below harmonic (crankshaft) balancer (timing belt side of the motor) -- front relative to (transverse mounted) engine, not front of the car. Loves to fail. Easy replacement through the wheel well.

V40 has an electronic throttle, drive by wire. This 850 has a manual (cable pull) throttle. The difference in firmness is normal.

Wiring diagrams here for all your electrical nightmares.

Personally I wouldn't waste the money on seafoam. These engine usually run very clean, assuming they were kept in good running condition. Some claim it's good for the valves, but.. here's whats good for the valves: run her at 4000-4500 rpm for a few minutes every other day for a week. You can select 2nd gear by dropping into L above 25mph, or starting off in winter mode in L and then shifting into 3 (which is 2 in winter mode) above 10mph. This will cause the valves to rotate. Doing this a few times every other day ensures you run the valves in a variety of rotation states over the week, which will help remove deposits. Be aware these cars love to eat valves if deposits are allowed to build up, and it's not a cheap/easy fix.

Also be aware these are interference engines, change your timing belt on time and inspect it every oil change -- a broken timing belt will bend a number of valves, again, not a cheap/easy fix. It is not uncommon for timing belt death to be the end of these cars, especially as the P&L to repair the damage often exceeds the book value of the car. The top timing belt cover is removable by the single bolt about 6 inches down from the top in the center of the cover. Remove the bolt with a suitable ratchet and gently pull the cover directly up. Use a strong light to inspect the belt for cracks, ensure it is properly tensioned, look for oil leakage past seals, and any signs of weepage from the water pump. Correct any of these issues at once. Note the timing belt also drives the water pump, so the pump failing in a manner that causes it to lock up (exceedingly rare) will kill the belt and valves; pump should be replaced every other belt change, if it makes any sort of abnormal noise, or leaks.

Welcome to the land of foxy boxy beauties :)

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yeah there is def a fuel take recall, You can even search old posts on here to find out the exact recall #. Just make sure before they do it that they plan to replace those hoses cause the actual recall is for something else (I think its for the gas tank rubber mounts) cause they might not do the hoses when you could have just paid them like $40 and they would have.

Call Volvo of Westport, they are a lot better all around than the Milford dealer, including better parts prices.

called both Milford and Westport and they both say there are NO recalls for my VIN

13_gingrich.gif

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........

Welcome to the land of foxy boxy beauties :)

thankyou VERY much for all that info.. i am traversing into territory i do not know :)

if possible, +100 :P

You may have not been in the Vin range or it may have been done already.

thanks.. noted

the seller responded saying that he changed the fuel pump last winter and drove it around without the carpet to have everything evap and to check for leaks...

what will i be able to a good amount from the top of the tank? ( removing the carpet )

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removing the carpet will only allow you access to 2 service ports, which are mostly used for replacing your fuel pump. You will not be able to replace the lines from these though, and probably wont even be able to see more then about 6" of them very well. You really need to drop the tank in order to see the whole hose.

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