cupdriver91 Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 There are 4 of them unless your car is diffrent from my 96 850t you can access the nuts from between the subfloor and the support bracket,Like I said I had to modify a wrench to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 There are 4 of them unless your car is diffrent from my 96 850t you can access the nuts from between the subfloor and the support bracket,Like I said I had to modify a wrench to fit. no those bolts come out like regular bolts its just that sometimes they spin the nut that the bolts go into if that makes sense...I got 3 out of 4 to come out on my 850R my wagon they all just spun and then you have to figure out how to hold the nuts kinda like what your talking about..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 except for tiny holes in the subframe, i was not seeing a way to those nuts anyways i tore the plate off.. will make a 304 stainless cross member thing if its that structurally important. still cant get the o2 off.... breaker bar, cut the pig tail off, bathed it in oil penetrant ( the orange can ) for a day, heated it the hell up with a little map gas torch, taping with a hammer to "shock" the threads and still noo movement. i started hearing the rust start to crumble with the breaker bar torque. i will try an impact gun tommorow; if not i am just cutting a full section of pipe out, tap and weld a bung to the section of pipe, and welding it back on.. then install the new o2 on fresh pipe if rust was a person i would send it to the hospital Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercuric Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Man, this little project apparently has it out for you huh? good times.. Impact wrench will likely do it. I ended up using a long wrench and a mallet, smashed that sucker like I wanted to kill it repeatedly until it broke free. It did put up a pretty good fight. It's all about shock force to break it free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 got the o2 out ( oxy-acetylne this time instead of MAP gas).. had to chase the threads to clean then up.. installed new one.. no CEL! now i have to wati a couple days to get emmissions tested ( holiday weekend ) did the glove trick on the oil dipstick and theres no smoke/ pressure build up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 passed emissions but that was after my oil cooler lines bursted on RT 25 on the way to the emissions place... plain embarrassing; pissing oil everywhere.. they did some temporary patch once i boosted at 3000/ 3500 RPM it ruptured.. thankfully i was 2 minutes away from the place ( kept my eye on the temp gauge and it never left 3 oclock ) will be driving to FCP today and picking up oil cooler line kit.. since i have NO idea what status is of this car, i will do a tranny flush ( shifts like garbage.. will be using this method http://volvo850wagon.wordpress.com/category/transmission-2/ ) coolant flush, and obviously oil change after the oil cooler line fix i also need to issue the strong gasoline odor problem, purchase new motor mounts, and i will do a peek at the heater core to see if its shot looking or not long f*cking tunnel to stage 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 oil cooler lines bursted? ive never heard of that on these car, crazy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 not the rubber itself, where the clamps meet the rubber. installed new ones from FCP's kit and oil change.. next is motor mounts and then dropping the fuel tank to see where this gasoline odor is coming from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 september 7th dear diary new oil cooler lines are installed.. no leaking which is win registered it today and drove it around today.. in "sport" mode my OBD2 scanner said i boosted at 41% throttle i had 23 pounds of boost? i didnt even WOT it onto i95.. im going to install my mechanical Autometer boost gauge.. maybe my scanner is not accurate after the "pull" onto i95, my temp gauge on my dashboard when cold... then came back 5 minutes later newbmechanicproblems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercuric Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Yay for no leaking! There is no sensor on these cars that actually reads manifold pressure. Whatever your OBD2 scanner is telling you is pure conjecture. The system is based on flow (as read from the MAF) rather than pressure. The real boost gauge will be a proper indicator. You should get a 10-12PSI peak, peak should be around 4200-4800 RPM. But the boost control on these cars isn't terribly accurate. IMHO as long as you see at least 10 psi peak and spikes don't go over a bar (~14.7psi) you're fine. Note that boost is limited below 4k or so, mainly to prevent wheel spin. The torque converter starts to really "grip" around 3k but doesn't seem to totally lock until almost 4k. High boost in the 3-4k range, where both the turbo spools up well and the converter provides torque multiplication, results in some serious wheelspin in 1st gear, and when boost levels are raised, even in 2nd gear. Can be fun, but wears rubber down fast! The R's have an "overboost" feature that pushes up to around 12psi for a few seconds in the 4-5kRPM range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 Yay for no leaking! There is no sensor on these cars that actually reads manifold pressure. Whatever your OBD2 scanner is telling you is pure conjecture. The system is based on flow (as read from the MAF) rather than pressure. The real boost gauge will be a proper indicator. You should get a 10-12PSI peak, peak should be around 4200-4800 RPM. But the boost control on these cars isn't terribly accurate. IMHO as long as you see at least 10 psi peak and spikes don't go over a bar (~14.7psi) you're fine. Note that boost is limited below 4k or so, mainly to prevent wheel spin. The torque converter starts to really "grip" around 3k but doesn't seem to totally lock until almost 4k. High boost in the 3-4k range, where both the turbo spools up well and the converter provides torque multiplication, results in some serious wheelspin in 1st gear, and when boost levels are raised, even in 2nd gear. Can be fun, but wears rubber down fast! The R's have an "overboost" feature that pushes up to around 12psi for a few seconds in the 4-5kRPM range. once i get the motor mounts in, and the gas vapor smell figured out i was going to install an MBC with a K&N or whatever.. will that create a quicker spool? im just used to my v40 with an MBC spooling at like 2.5K. It does take some time to get used to the lag of boost and the throttle cable and not fly by wire now i just have to figure out which mounts need to be replaced. i would venture a guess and say all of them how many are there? top torque mount? lower transmission torque mount? 2 lower hydraulic mounts? ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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