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To 20T Or Not? (Is It Worth It)


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Excited to learn more about these turbos and quality - this is kinugawa right? What is your opinion on the assembly? Can't want to hear driving impressions too! It will be hard to compare though considering your car weighs probably 1,500lbs less than ours haha

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Excited to learn more about these turbos and quality - this is kinugawa right? What is your opinion on the assembly? Can't want to hear driving impressions too! It will be hard to compare though considering your car weighs probably 1,500lbs less than ours haha

it is Kinugawa, but i'm using a Volvo chra. The Kinugawa compressor wheel & housing are very good quality & all went together very well. The 11blade turbine wheel i was less impressed with, looked like they'd attacked it with an angle grinder to balance it (& took alot of metal off to do it). I'm afraid this turbo is going to have to wait for the next engine so going to be a while yet, not a feeling the standard rods won't like it lol

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There may be 2 problems with the BOV. Its only a single piston, if you are still using the MAF, You will have idle problems.

The second problem is only something I read

As far as the install was concerned the whole job took less than a couple of hours. The only hitch came about as a result of Kinugawa’s uprated CBV, Compressor Bypass Valve, which is now a larger chunky looking unit and prevents the turbo from seating correctly. Not a hard fix, just swapped it with the 19t unit.

Ive got the 20t Kinugawa with the same BOV, I also bought a blanking plate with the turbo. After noticing it was only a single piston, I removed the BOV and fitted the blanking plate

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Stock motor can handle it. Been running 25psi on my 19T with a lean AFR.

Bad tuning blows motors up(which is why these motors have a bad rep) not turbos.

i've already got the capability to have stepped boost levels to save the rods via the AVC-R, but tbh i don't want the car to drive that way. I'm hoping to have the boost done via the actuator so better being safe than sorry

There may be 2 problems with the BOV. Its only a single piston, if you are still using the MAF, You will have idle problems.

The second problem is only something I read

As far as the install was concerned the whole job took less than a couple of hours. The only hitch came about as a result of Kinugawa’s uprated CBV, Compressor Bypass Valve, which is now a larger chunky looking unit and prevents the turbo from seating correctly. Not a hard fix, just swapped it with the 19t unit.

Ive got the 20t Kinugawa with the same BOV, I also bought a blanking plate with the turbo. After noticing it was only a single piston, I removed the BOV and fitted the blanking plate

ah thanks, didn't even think whether it was single or double. As it was listed for Volvo i assumed it'd be the correct type (blast), I've got a Forge blanking plate so can use that. The annoying part is i could of bought the actuator i want instead of wasting it on this bov

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Its not fitted yet, Was looking an article yesterday about a 20t on a Volvo.

http://ovlov94blog.wordpress.com/2014/03/17/kinugawa-td04hl-20t-install/

he seems happy with it. Surprised how different it sounds to a 19t considering theirs not much difference physically

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm also wondering how different the 19T and 20T's are. I was a little paranoid about fitting a 19T "rodbender." I often run boost control straight off the wastegate actuator, and the 19T seems to come on a little too hot unless you have a tune which lets the factory TCV bring the boost in a little more gradually.

I had a T3/T04E before so I don't mind a slower boost onset. It saves rods AND tires that way. ;)

If the 20T does come on a little bit slower than the 19T, I will likely go with the Kunigawa 20T wheel and housing when the time comes to upgrade the stock turbo.

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  • 5 months later...

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