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Removing Subframe For Manaul Swap?


DAYWALKER

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hello to all. for all the people that have replace their tranny or a manual swap. can you tell me how you did it or should have done to make thing easier. some say hanging the subframe is faster but some say take it all the way off. which way is best to help with stabbing in the tranny. what thing you remove

from the subframe and what not. do you take it off from the ball joint or from the inner frame. how about the whole strut assembly with it. if you did hang it

how did you drop the tranny and get it back up in there with the subframe in the way and how do you jack the tranny up while the subframe is hanging there. . stuff like that. more detail the better. thanks in advance.

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Your going to find multiple ways to do it. I used this engine suspender, pulled the subframe, disconnected the lower ball joints and left the rack in place. Pulled the whole sub out. Had to use a jack to pull down and lift up the old and new trans due to weight and being a one man show.

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Like Boxpin, I prefer to drop the entire subframe also - since you have to disconnect the rack, engine mounts & support the engine anyway, it just gives more room. Especially if you're doing it on the ground, but even when using a shop lift. Tie the steering rack to prevent stressing the pinion/column. Steering wheel should be pushed all the way forward & tilted up before you start.

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I opt to leave the passenger side subframe bolts in place but loosened enough to drop the drivers side down, removed at the ball joint. I then put a piece of plywood on the subframe and use a jack to partially raise the subframe under the trans, remove trans from motor and slide trans down the plywood onto a 4 wheel dolly. Upon reinstall, slide trans up plywood to get it close to the motor, then jack up subframe to raise trans to attach to motor, after a few trans bolts are in, lower subframe, remove plywood, finish install. This procedure works great with two people, I've never tried it with one. As for the strut, just strap it as far back as you can to the rear within the wheel well. The red Harbor Freight engine support that Boxpin posted works fine, and can be had for $75., or less if you have a coupon.

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You will need to pull both axles out but when you remove the bottom ball joint it will free them enough to clear the trans.

the wheel well does not have to come out.

lowering the engine a bit may help but remember your still connected to other components (exhaust, etc). The cross engine bar makes that easily possible.

I personally found that mounting the rear engine mount to the trans with the engine mount attached was easiest when putting it all back together.

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I dropped the subframe. I used a shop lift, and of course this made it much easier. I left the steering rack in the car after disconnecting the balljoints and using some strapps to hold the rack in place. I did lower the driver's side of the engine to gain clearance for the trans with the driver's side frame rail. I still think the most difficult thing with the swap was installing the pedal assembly. Just disconnect the steering column joint from the "floor" mount where it goes through the firewall. Then I just pushed the column shaft towards the rear of the car (pushing it into itselt towards teh steering wheel) and this gave me tons of room to swap the pedals.

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Yes, must angle the engine down for the trans to clear the frame rail, but don't go too much because the heater hoses can be damaged near where they go into the firewall. Must remove bolt for the upper engine torque mount to firewall bracket. I think I unhooked the rubber exhaust mounts under the car.

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Yup. My engine was being 100% suspended by the engine cross brace durring my swap since all motor mounts went out with the subframe, plus I removed the upper torque mount. Honestly, I would have lifted the car off the subframe with the engine and trans still mounted to the subframe but I just didn't want to have to open the A/C system.

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this is probably a stupid question but i have to ask. how far do i jack up the vehicle? jack stand height? will it be harder to remove and install if it is too high up? my jack could raise up at a maximum of 20in. i'm just afraid if i get it too high or too low and after i remove the subframe it will be hard to reset the height again.

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10452944664_5f23e7dc14_c.jpg
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Auto Tranny still in ^
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This is only the two drivers side subframe bolts OFF. The passenger side subframe blots as well have to be partially unscrewed. The can hit the floor when the passenger side subframe bolts are removed.
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The block under the subframe is a 4x4 used just to keep the subframe from hitting the floor. You will have more than enough room to work around to rip out the transmission and get the new one in. I had to have help to removing the auto transmission and had no help putting in my manual transmission by myself. HUGE weight difference.
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This is with the subframe completely at the floor.

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