mattsk8 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Taken from BlackT5's swap thread, for anyone that ever searches and comes up w/ my thread looking for what all needs to be done in this process. This, and the reverse lights are all the wiring involved in this swap; correct? While reading through this, I also realized I either need to make a mount or order one from Hussein (is the option still available??). Since I haven't had a lot of time lately, I skipped making my own mount and ordered a Hussein Holland Special V3. It arrived today. I got the wiring done in the ECU box. Here is the wiring diagram from page 1 for reference. What i'm doing here is joining the CAN network wires together that go to and from the TCM. Green TCM #B1 wire connects to green TCM #B2 wire White TCM #B13 wire conects to white TCM #B14 wire. Starting to dismantle the connectors This is the "B" connector for the TCM.. Pins released. I also wanted to add the clutch switch wire to ECM #B15 but I needed a pin to plug into the connector since the auto harness is not wired. I just used one of the TCM pins that I cut off. More on that in a min.. Pins cut off, wires soldered and heat shrinked. I used a spare wire from an old harness and soldered one of the pins to it for the clutch switch wire. This wire is fed through the firewall grommet and over to the driver foot well. To get it into the ECM connector, you have to dismantle it a little further. This is the "B" socket of the ECM connector. First you need to release the small black connector and push it back through the housing. Then you can access the purple release clip. You need to use pliers on the other end while you pry it out with a small screwdriver. You only need to pull it out about half way, this is far enough that it's cleared the #B15 hole.. From there you can easily clip the wire in. Again, it's ECM #B15. You will know you're in the right spot when you see the Grey wire above it in #B16 Bottom of the connectors put back together. I'll update more with the clutch switch once I actually receive it. The other wire for it has to be spliced into the brake switch somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 I'll probably go the 'modify the mount' route. I can see by your pic what you changed, but I'm guessing you waited until the transmission was in to make this mod; right? pic of the l/s rear fabricated mount bracket, that allows the use of the existing mount: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 I'll probably go the 'modify the mount' route. I can see by your pic what you changed, but I'm guessing you waited until the transmission was in to make this mod; right? That is the bracket that has to be made. There is no stock mount bracket to modify for this. The bracket allows the stock mount to be used - the rubber block with extended thread. If yours was an '00 five speed auto, you would have to buy the 98-99 version of that mount. You can PM me if you want to buy one. The trans case has to be tapped also. Pics of that and the webbing shaving are in my M66 thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 98R (Left) vs 00R (Right) mounts. You need the earlier one with the longer rod as H mentioned. Sometimes getting the old piece off the rod is difficult. Then you need to fab a bracket or just get one from H. I didn't have to tap any holes on my S40 trans. The P1 trans uses a different mount and already has those holes tapped. You will need to shave down the trans though. I noticed mine is very close to the subframe, I should have shaved up a little further to the left. My trans sits a bit lower (closer to the subframe) than pictured Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 Also check the condition of your driver control arm if it is the newer type that bolts through the subframe and replace it while the trans is out. I had to replace my passenger control arm yesterday which was fine, but I bought a left one too since it's just as old but I could not get the trans high enough to get one fo the bolts out. I will have to drop the subframe slightly which I didn't have time to do. It would have been a piece of cake with nothing in the engine bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 98R (Left) vs 00R (Right) mounts. You need the earlier one with the longer rod as H mentioned. Sometimes getting the old piece off the rod is difficult. Then you need to fab a bracket or just get one from H. I didn't have to tap any holes on my S40 trans. The P1 trans uses a different mount and already has those holes tapped. You will need to shave down the trans though. I noticed mine is very close to the subframe, I should have shaved up a little further to the left. My trans sits a bit lower (closer to the subframe) than pictured As far as the mounts go, I'm sure this will make more sense once I have my transmission out. To be honest I haven't paid any attention to what's there now. Thanks for the info and pics!! The grinding on the transmission makes total sense and hopefully after I get into pulling my auto trans out tonight I'll understand the rest too. Also check the condition of your driver control arm if it is the newer type that bolts through the subframe and replace it while the trans is out. I had to replace my passenger control arm yesterday which was fine, but I bought a left one too since it's just as old but I could not get the trans high enough to get one fo the bolts out. I will have to drop the subframe slightly which I didn't have time to do. It would have been a piece of cake with nothing in the engine bay. What am I looking for when I check it? Are you saying if it is the type that bolts through the subframe I need to replace that control arm for a different style control arm for the transmission to fit?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 What am I looking for when I check it? Are you saying if it is the type that bolts through the subframe I need to replace that control arm for a different style control arm for the transmission to fit?? All AWD have the control with the 4 bolts through the subframe - the question is whether yours is in good shape (balljoint and bushings), as it is impossible to get the bolts out of the subframe once the trans is in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 All AWD have the control with the 4 bolts through the subframe - the question is whether yours is in good shape (balljoint and bushings), as it is impossible to get the bolts out of the subframe once the trans is in place. Thanks! I have checked out my control arms w/ regards to the balljoints and bushings and things appear to be good. I've actually had the front end aligned twice in the past month because I had it aligned the first time and the ps rack went out, then I changed the rack and had it aligned again and the trans puked. But when I have the trans out I'll triple check the control arms again and make sure everything's copacetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 That is the bracket that has to be made. There is no stock mount bracket to modify for this. The bracket allows the stock mount to be used - the rubber block with extended thread. If yours was an '00 five speed auto, you would have to buy the 98-99 version of that mount. You can PM me if you want to buy one. The trans case has to be tapped also. Pics of that and the webbing shaving are in my M66 thread. PM sent. Also got the ECU in the mail, its finally on its way to Lucky for some horses and a manual tune. I told Lucky I wanted the Blue Tune; is this a good route for me to go? Right now my car is basically stock, but I'll be doing the 3" DP and high flow cat as soon as my trans swap is done (I already have all the parts for the DP). My car also came w/ a EuroSport intake, but not sure if I'm going to keep that or not. As far as bolt on upgrades go, what else should I do either now or plan for down the road?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I got the sub frame and the auto shift linkage out last night, tonight I hope to drop the trans. Shouldn't be too difficult, all I have left is the front motor mount, the starter, then unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. Its tough to get much done during the week cuz I only have 2 hours/night to work on it. My control arm bushings and ball joints look good. Just out of curiosity, does anyone have a pic of the bracket that needs fabricated installed on their car? Where exactly does the bracket mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Pics should be in my thread I linked earlier The fun part is getting all the clearances correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Thanks for all the info and pics!! Got the auto on the floor, ready for delivery to scrap steel. Taking tonight off so I can stay married through this, but I'll be back at it tomorrow. I think I've decided to order the custom mount bracket from ^^^, I think it'll be a huge time saver. Tomorrow I hope to have the new rear main seal in, and maybe get the clutch master and pedals hooked up. Saturday I'd like to be putting the transmission in... time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Shave the casing webbing like this: Go all the way round to the webbing that sits at about 7-7:30 as shown make sure there are no sharp cuts, you want gradual curves at any transitional point. I also ground off the tabs on the underside of the subframe, where the bottom half of the subframe is welded to the upper half. Gives clear access for removing the axle the proper way (prying out at seat, instead of using CV shaft like a slide-hammer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Hussein, you are the man!! Those pics will save so much time putting in and pulling back out the sub frame!! Thanks again for everything. Hopefully my ECU will be the very last piece of this puzzle to plug in. I probably won't see that until next week Wednesday or Thursday at best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Good to see you are making progress! Looks like you're more then half way there too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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