lookforjoe Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 One more thing - either fill the trans BEFORE you install the mount & bracket (since the fill plug is behind it) OR remove the detent bolt from the top of the trans shifter assy - see here: Nice shiny bulbous nut is what I'm referring to Fill it slowly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Just wanted to put a good word in for Hussein (lookforjoe). He's going to mail my bracket out today, which is 2 days earlier than he said he could. I really appreciate this. The next few days are going to be up in the air for working. My grandma was in a bad car accident and she's in the hospital so I'll probably be there in the evenings, although I'll probably go work on the car tonight and go visit after. Doctors aren't sure if she'll make it, but they said the next 2 days will probably hold the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeyman Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 As a fellow '99er I'm looking at your progress with great interest... keep up the good work. My prayers go out to your grandmother and family. Not an easy time, especially right before the holidays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Welcome to the club. I have a signed bracket from H on my car.. probably my coveted piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Welcome to the club. I have a signed bracket from H on my car.. probably my coveted piece. Thanks! I hope that's the last piece of the transmission puzzle, now I can put that puzzle together and go whale on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 I'll be back at it tonight, and I hope to have the M66 mounted in there tomorrow. 2 more questions... I've done some searching and came up w/ mixed reviews. Do these just take a standard MTL for the transmission fluid? What about the fluid for the bevel gear? Any recommendations that won't require a trip to Volvo parts? Also, reading through Hussein's thread I saw that he also did some grinding on the subframe. What exactly did you grind down and how far did you take it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 I only ground down the case webbing (per H's thread) on the M66 itself, FWIW. No modifications were made to the subframe on my 98. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Is there an alternative to this Volvo manual transmission oil that will work well in my M66?? And what fluid do I use in the bevel gear? Edit: Found the answer here. The Volvo fluid is 75W-90 API GL-4 fully synthetic and should take about 2 liters, so I should be able to find an equivalent in Redline or Royal Purple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Unless you're putting in a SM flywheel setup, personally I'd stick with the Volvo branded oils for both. They work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Got a lot done in the short time frame we had yesterday. We got the rear main seal changed, the clutch and the M66 mounted to the engine, the pedals are mounted, got the hydraulic line run from the clutch master to the slave cylinder, got the shift cables run, and I got the transmission ground down so the car can receive its sub frame again. Hopefully today we'll get the starter, the bevel gear, sub frame, and hopefully axles back in. Heading back to work on it in a couple hours. Aside from this ^^, I still need to do the wiring at the ECU, and mount the shift linkage. I played around a bit w/ the shift linkage yesterday too. From what I can tell, the shift linkage that I got from the 2005 S40 sits a bit too high, it kind of feels like a pistol grip from an old Dodge 4 speed. If I left it that way, I don't know if the console will fit over it. So I'm not eating up my buddies garage space, I'll probably just bolt that in and finesse it after I get it drivable and back to my house; the goal at my buddies is just to get it driving again. Transmission fits like a glove The pedals are actually pretty easy to mount in. In the end I paid about $115 for the frigging things, and that's because the yard didn't give me the dumb clutch spring they said they'd give me. I'll probably call and see if I can get a discount off the $85 they charged for a complete pedal assembly, but I'm not going to loose sleep over it. They did end up mailing me the clutch and brake switches after the fact, but said they couldn't find a clutch spring. And a bit of modifying for fitment (thanks again to BlackT5 and lookforjoe for all the pics!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 There is a plastic riser below the shifter assembly that I cut out. Using shorter bolts, it made the shifter height perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Thank you Commander Riker!! Not to ask a really dumb question, but these are the 4 things that are sticking up out of the tunnel that the original shifter used to screw into; correct? My main reason for asking if these things are the risers is because you were saying yours are plastic, and on my car the things that stick out of the car's drive shaft tunnel where the original auto shift linkage mounted are metal. What I've done so far is pulled the bolts and rubber grommets out of the new 6 speed shift linkage, and I pulled the grommets and the sleeve out of my factory linkage. Obviously none of the new shifter's mounting holes line up perfectly w/ the car's factory mounting positions, but it is possible for me to set the new shift linkage in and get 3 of the 4 bolts in (2 in the back and one on the passenger side front). I know, a lot of info just to ask the question, is it those 4 metal things that stick up out of my car's drive shaft tunnel that I'm supposed to grind down? Also, did you manage to get 4 mounting bolts in or did you only use 3?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Compare his 1st avd 3rd pics. It is the plastic panel (and sound insulation) below the shift assy that is cut away, including the area that the metal collars are pressed into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Yeah... I removed the grommets from the shifter assembly... and in that picture, I was just using the barrel shaped bushing to mount it in with the longer bolts and test it. Short bolts are suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Thanks Hussein and Riker for the replies. Sorry if that seemed like a dumb question, after I got back to the car and looked at it better I realized if someone asked me I might think it was a dumb question too. . But, in my defense, its tough to do when the car's 20 miles away. But hopefully now that won't be an issue cuz its parked in front of my house again . Last weekend we got the sub frame in and I have everything hooked up (steering rack, control arms, axles, bevel gear, etc). I also got the plastic riser cut out of the console, now I need to move the wires in there and come up w/ a respectable mounting plan. I need to clean my garage now so I can pull the car in, my garage doubles as my woodshop and I have crap scattered everywhere. Hopefully Lucky's back from the SEMA show and programming my ECU today; if so I should see that by Thursday. On my 'still to do list' I have to figure out how to mildly reroute the lower radiator hose and also find a decent route for the engine harness that ran along the top of the original auto trans, plus mount the shifter, bleed the clutch master, and I still have a bit to figure out w/ the clutch pedals (which brings me to my first question for today). When I originally ordered my clutch spring from Volvo they ordered the wrong part. What they were supposed to order was the round spring and the 2 plastic pieces that slide into each end of the spring. What I got was a goofy looking spring that I had no idea what it went to. Eventually they ordered the right spring and I put that in. Now, when I press the clutch pedal it springs down to the floor and I have to manually pull the pedal back up. I still haven't bled the clutch master yet, but I'm curious if bleeding it will eliminate this issue or do I need that other spring? After I looked into it further I figured out the other spring aided in pulling the pedal back up. My plan for solving this next issue is to go to an exhaust shop and have them bend a pipe up that's the same diameter as the pipe that runs along the back of the engine. I'll have them make a minor 'S bend in the pipe so it hugs the engine near the cylinder head, then run the lower radiator hose into that. Just curious if this is a good plan or if you guys did something simpler? Also, how did you guys end up routing that wring harness? I shouldn't even post this part, but yesterday I obviously had to tow the car from my friend's over to my house so I brought my tow dolly. I've used this tow dolly more times than I can count w/out an issue, and there wasn't an issue at all when I drove the car onto it to haul it over there in the first place. Since the car doesn't run, we had to push it out of his shop, and pushed it back away from the dolly a little ways so we could get a good shot at getting it up and over the hump that the wheels sit in on the dolly. I'm guessing when the car's tires hit the ramp, the front suspension nosed down enough to let the front bumper hit these 2 things that stick up on the tow dolly a little bit. Needless to say, it destroyed my bumper (the same bumper I painted about 3 or so months ago ). Also broke both of my fog lights, I wanted to puke when this happened. So, I'll also be shopping up an R bumper cover and a pair of fog lights now . I'll get a pic and post it after I'm not quite so pissed about it. I know its my own fault, I should've thought about it and I should know better that this is a possibility when you use a tow dolly. The tow dolly even has a winch on it, I was just being lazy; but that doesn't make me any less pissed about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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