99 V70R M66 Swap

[mattsk8]

As far as the lower radiator hose goes, I did see what BlackT5 did, and if you're reading this where did you find that fancy union you used to connect the hoses together??

[DAYWALKER]

If you dont know already you can use a oil can squirter. It will take you less than 5 minute to bleed it. After you fill the clutch system with the oil can just disconnect the hose from the bleeder and let it gravity bleed to make sure all the air is out. After you bleed it the clutch pedal will return up by itself. I got the oil can from harbor freight for 2 buck

[lookforjoe]

Harness should go under the heater hose, up against the block/bell housing. You can cut up the auto conduit. You can also buy the S60R manual trans conduit, but that will still need cutting to fit anyway.

Do you have a pic of the secondary spring? I'm wondering now if I've been missing a return spring all along. Mine does exactly as you describe when bleeding the system, but stays up once bled. However, it does not sit all the way up at the top. I only have the pivot spring on the peg with the plastic "V" wedges at each end.

[BlackT5]

Rad hose adapters. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/radiator-hose-adapter

I just put a plug in the sensor port

[mattsk8]

Thanks again for the pics Hussein!! As far as that spring goes, I don't have a pic, I didn't get it cuz I just assumed they ordered something completely wrong and had them order the right part. I think the spring he ordered may have been for a right drive Volvo, because I've never seen it in any of the pedal assembly parts break downs that I've looked at. From what I saw, it slid over the shaft that the clutch pedal slid on (to put it in you'd have to disassemble the whole pedal assembly), then it clipped to the pedal itself on one end, and to the pedal mounting bracket on the other end. I don't think making one work would be that difficult, there's a bunch of variations of different clutch pedal springs. Maybe I'll go back to Volvo, buy it (part was $30) and see if it works. If it doesn't work, I can return it and tell them its for a right hand drive and doesn't fit my car.

It would be really nice if someone here had one of our model years factory manual that would be willing to look up there and see if theirs has the extra spring.

The bracket fit very well BTW, glad I ordered that from you.

Rad hose adapters. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/radiator-hose-adapter

I just put a plug in the sensor port

Thanks a LOT, I'll definitely go that route. I'll just cut my lower hose shorter and find a same diameter radiator hose that has the bend I need.

Aside from practically ripping my front bumper off, I'm super excited to get this going! But, as far as the bumper goes, it looks like that might work out too cuz it turns out its a comprehensive claim, rather than a collision claim so my ins might be footing the bill for that idiotic move on my part :)

[mattsk8]

Do you have a pic of the secondary spring? I'm wondering now if I've been missing a return spring all along. Mine does exactly as you describe when bleeding the system, but stays up once bled. However, it does not sit all the way up at the top. I only have the pivot spring on the peg with the plastic "V" wedges at each end.

As far as that other spring goes, I called Betten Imports. The guy wasn't very sure, but he said he thinks there's a VIN break in 99, and the earlier models used used the the style he originally gave me, and the later models use the style you and I currently have. But he did say he didn't think they ever used both springs on the same pedal assembly. That said, you might be able to use both springs and solve your pedal issue, or use the different one rather than the one you're currently using.

The spring is part # 271805, see #24 in the image below.

Tonight I'm going to clean the garage up, and hope to have the car pulled in so I can get back at it. Still haven't heard from Lucky at ARD as to when I'll be seeing my ECU, but its no biggy. Would be nice to have it by Saturday, but at this point I don't think that'll happen.

[lookforjoe]

Thanks - the schematics I have only show the later style - that looks more like the old 200/700 style return. I may buy one & try it out - just to see if it keeps the pedal from dropping the 1/2" or so. In my case, in seems to be play in the MC/push rod seat - both of which are new. Never bothered to compare with the old parts. I would think the wrap-around spring would do a better job of keeping the pedal up.

[mattsk8]

Thanks - the schematics I have only show the later style - that looks more like the old 200/700 style return. I may buy one & try it out - just to see if it keeps the pedal from dropping the 1/2" or so. In my case, in seems to be play in the MC/push rod seat - both of which are new. Never bothered to compare with the old parts. I would think the wrap-around spring would do a better job of keeping the pedal up.

Post back if it solves your issue . I might get one too.

I did finally hear back from ARD, and my freshly tuned and reprogrammed ECU should ship out today, which means I should see it by Saturday!!!

[Commander Riker]

What I did for my swap is I took my lower radiator hose to Oreillys... found a piece that was of a like diameter, but with a little S bend in it to place it over about an inch and a half or so to one side. They also provided me with a radiator hose coupler kit for a few bucks... took it back and cut the rad piece up.

Thought about getting a slightly larger hose, cutting it and putting it over the rad hose in that area just to be safe, but it isn't needed honestly. Just have it tucked close as you can to the head and you'll be good to go.

Good luck on getting it finished up!!

[mattsk8]

What I did for my swap is I took my lower radiator hose to Oreillys... found a piece that was of a like diameter, but with a little S bend in it to place it over about an inch and a half or so to one side. They also provided me with a radiator hose coupler kit for a few bucks... took it back and cut the rad piece up.

Thought about getting a slightly larger hose, cutting it and putting it over the rad hose in that area just to be safe, but it isn't needed honestly. Just have it tucked close as you can to the head and you'll be good to go.

Good luck on getting it finished up!!

Thanks. I just ordered the temp sensor thing that BlackT5 linked, it was only $13. Once I have that I'll go shopping for a minor S bend. Or, if it doesn't show up by the time I need it, I'll run to the store and figure something out.

Hoping to be able to drive this thing Saturday, but we'll see how that goes...

[lookforjoe]

Why are you messing with the lower rad hose? Are you adding something? There is no reason to alter it due to the M66 casing.... Is it due to her reversed shifter configuration?

[mattsk8]

Why are you messing with the lower rad hose? Are you adding something? There is no reason to alter it due to the M66 casing.... Is it due to her reversed shifter configuration?

Not adding anything. The lower radiator hose now leans hard against the shift linkage, so I need to find a way to move it away from the shift linkage, closer to the cylinder head. The only way to do that is to cut it, then splice some sort of same diameter radiator hose w/ a minor 'S bend in it to keep it away from the shift linkage. I've tried moving and twisting the existing hose but no matter how its manipulated the shift linkage will be against it, eventually rubbing a hole in it.

[lookforjoe]

I see. So it's an issue with using the V50 style M66.

[mattsk8]

I see. So it's an issue with using the V50 style M66.

Exactly. I noticed in the pic you posted that your shift linkage mounts on the transmission are completely different. Wonder if the mounts are interchangeable??

[Commander Riker]

Doubt it would done so easily. That being said.. it's likely much much easier to move the radiator hose over to accommodate the M66C shifter assembly.