Johann Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 There are many versions of the coolant hose and also the pipe running from the water pump. I also recall some cars having a bracket which holds the hose closer to the engine and a bit higher up. The RNC T5 coolant hose does have a bend in it but also a T for the revised thermostat. Maybe you can cut this hose and use the lower part of the existing hose to the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Exactly. I noticed in the pic you posted that your shift linkage mounts on the transmission are completely different. Wonder if the mounts are interchangeable??It's not the mount at issue, it's the entire shift gate Assy., which is different between the two versions of the trans. If you were (even able) to purchase the entire shift assembly, it would negate the cables and shifter you are using, so you would then have been better off buying the S60R version of the trans, and adapting '00 shifter, etc.... Easier to buy a new hose & splice, I would say. Just don't use one of those auto parts store plastic hose couplers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 I figured while I have this all torn apart I'd do the PCV system too. The write up I was reading about this said I should clean the PTC valve, but the write up was for a 97 Volvo and mine's a 99. Can anyone give me some pointers on anything else I should do while I have this torn apart? So far, I just have the intake manifold off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Replace the combined vent/water circa hose assembly that connects to the breather box, intake and back of head. I'd also get the '04 larger breather box & cam vent hose to go with. Replace the elbow & drain hoses, of course. Clean out the ports in the block, drain & outlet. Get a new dipstick oring while you're at it. PTC is set in the inlet hose pre turbo. remove it & make sure the nipple passage is clear. Should be OK, it's larger bore than -'98, and doesn't have the vacuum nipple that clogs on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Is the vent/water hose you're saying I should replace the one in the pic below w/ the arrow pointing to it? When I took the intake off, I noticed this was disconnected from the PCV trap, and it appears it has been for a little while now. I have no idea how these things are supposed to do what they do, but what is the purpose of this pipe? After pulling my PCV trap out, I inspected the holes in the block and none of them are plugged. This makes me a bit nervous because the only reason I was doing this is to attempt to remedy the mild smoking issue I get every once in a while when I decelerate, then accelerate (no smoke otherwise). Could that pipe I circled above not being hooked up cause this? Or am I likely looking at doing the valve seals as well? My oil consumption isn't super bad but its not stellar either, probably uses a quart to about 2k miles. Pics of the PCV holes in the block As far as parts go, from IPD I bought a new trap, and all the hoses and fittings but I didn't get the long pipes because they're $180 and I thought mine would be fine. Is it possible to just clamp the aluminum pipe back in the rubber elbow on the trap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 You can split the old one and use just the water pipe that connect the thermostat housing to the head on the side, then build a better pipe on copper from the pcv box to the intake pipe (H might post a picture to give you the idea).Don't trow $180 on that stuff is not worth and still restrictive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Is the vent/water hose you're saying I should replace the one in the pic below w/ the arrow pointing to it? When I took the intake off, I noticed this was disconnected from the PCV trap, and it appears it has been for a little while now. I have no idea how these things are supposed to do what they do, but what is the purpose of this pipe? After pulling my PCV trap out, I inspected the holes in the block and none of them are plugged. This makes me a bit nervous because the only reason I was doing this is to attempt to remedy the mild smoking issue I get every once in a while when I decelerate, then accelerate (no smoke otherwise). Could that pipe I circled above not being hooked up cause this? Or am I likely looking at doing the valve seals as well? My oil consumption isn't super bad but its not stellar either, probably uses a quart to about 2k miles. As far as parts go, from IPD I bought a new trap, and all the hoses and fittings but I didn't get the long pipes because they're $180 and I thought mine would be fine. Is it possible to just clamp the aluminum pipe back in the rubber elbow on the trap? Having the breather vent disconnected would likely cause a smoking issue - I'm surprised you didn't smell it at idle - also a vacuum leak since the other end of the pipe is attached via the PTC to the turbo inlet, and directly to the intake manifold at the banjo. This also means you were sucking in unfiltered air at the turbo, and umetered air at the intake. I would either replace that pipe as an assembly, or flush it, or fabricate a separate vent section & separate the water & vent pipes by cutting off that foam wrap. The water pipe won't clog, but the PCV breather pipe can. One way ( I did this one pictured on a stock V70): In your case however, you need to maintain the "Y" fitting to allow vacuum draw from the banjo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thanks a lot guys, I'd be lost w/out this forum!! 'll go pick up some copper pipe and make what Hussein posted, except I'll fit it into the the stock rubber Y fitting that plugs onto the trap, so it maintains the vacuum draw from the banjo. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get back on this, been super busy w/ family and everything else life has to offer. Over the past week I've only had a couple hours to work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Got a lot done on the Volvo yesterday. I got the wires all rerouted, the way I did that was got rid of the factory plastic routing thing that used to run over the auto transmission, replaced that w/ some wire loom and ran it over the manual right next to the cylinder head. Also made it to Autozone and picked up a nice radiator pipe that had the bend I wanted, now I'm just waiting for the union that BlackT5 linked (1 1/4") so I can finish that up. I also got my PCV system all done w/ a new trap and hoses, and I replaced all the vacuum lines that were brittle and cracked. The vacuum line that hooked into the middle of the top of the intake and then ran under it had a HUGE crack in it, all new now. Intake manifold is also back on. The next plan of attack is the wiring at the computer. Looking at >BlackT5's build thread (see post #90), can someone please explain EXACTLY what and why I'm doing what I'm doing w/ these wires? I'm a little nervous, I don't want to fry the computer I just paid a lot of money to have programmed!! I think I understand what's going on, I just mainly want confirmation that I'm removing the right wires, and that I'm soldering the right wires together. I also would like to (eventually) make the cruise work again, and if I read that correctly I need to add a wire to the harness somewhere for that to work. Thank's again to everyone for the input on this so far, its been HUGE!!!! Pic of the reroute I did yesterday on top of the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 I guess to simplify my question... When I'm doing the wiring at the ECU/TCM harness, all I need to do is connect the 2 green wires together, then connect the 2 white wires together; correct? Plus I need to add the wire for the cruise control; correct? Is this the only wiring that I need to do at the TCM harness?? Also, reading through this instructional, it states... The Automatic transmission has, what in the old days was called a park/neutral switch, and today is called a gear position sensor. This sensor controls both the neutral/park starter inhibitor as well as reverse light switch. The neutral/park inhibitor will need to be bypassed by connecting the green/red to green wires. Reverse lights are also controlled via the gear position sensor so connecting the blue/grey and blue wires to the reverse switch on the manual transmission will resolve that. Are these wires located in the console area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 I think I understand most of this. I'm connecting the 2 white, 2 green wires together because w/out the TCU the wires are no longer connected. And I'm connecting the green/red to green wires to overcome the car thinking it's not in park (otherwise I'm guessing it won't start). These both make sense. The one I don't understand is the reverse light wiring. I'm guessing there's 2 different options for making the reverse lights work. One option is to hard wire the battery to the reverse switch on the manual trans, then go from the other pin on the reverse switch back to the reverse lights. And the other option is to take the blue/grey and also the blue wire in the console and run those to the reverse switch on the transmission. Am I understanding that correctly?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Got a chance to work on it tonight and I got the 2 green and 2 white wires soldered together, but I have no idea where the gear position sensor wires or the reverse light wires that were referred to are. Can anyone help me out w/ the location of these wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Got a chance to work on it tonight and I got the 2 green and 2 white wires soldered together, but I have no idea where the gear position sensor wires or the reverse light wires that were referred to are. Can anyone help me out w/ the location of these wires? PM BlackT5, he's the one who has done this personally. I'd love to help, however I've not done this with ME7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks. Out of all things I've done, I think getting the shifter in put the biggest smile on my face. Some wire re-routing and also put some sound deadening in. Still need to work on the wires a bit, but its getting close to done. To mount it, I used the rubber bushings that were mounted in the new shifter when I got it, but I ground the little nubs off the back side of them. Then I slid the new mounting bolts w/ washers through those. I used 3 bolts to mount it, one up front and 2 in the back. I could prob get 4 in, but I want to drive it and see if I need to move anything before I do any drilling or grinding on the shifter to make that happen. Was surprised the shift cable boot from the 2005 S40 fit so well, like it was made for my car. I used the factory holes and grommet to mount the 2005 S40 cables in my 99. Well done Volvo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Replied to your PM about the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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