mattsk8 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Replied to your PM about the wiring. Your PM was a HUGE help!! PM replied to!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 What did you guys do for a shift boot? Will this one work in my car's current console? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-V70-CENTER-SHIFT-BOOT-OEM-/271033384680?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1ad93ee8&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commander Riker Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Currently... I'm using this Though I should be an adult and get a proper shift boot As for the cables... they really do fit like they were made for the car. The grommet was the same, much to my surprise. Just fits in like it was meant to be. Good job making progress and posting pictures. Keep it up! You're almost there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Have you yanked the shifter knob off the shaft? I'd like to see the base of it, and the retaining method - curious if it's identical to early style (collar around shifter rod, expanding tabs on shifter base that interlock into collar groove) If so, that would give more options for shifter knobs. I bought a shift boot off a UK vendor - leather with a variety of color & stitching combos- I can probably find it in my thread some where's - just has to be glued to the stock shifter boot base ( which sounds like you don't have , so buy the $20 boot anyway :-) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Have you yanked the shifter knob off the shaft? I'd like to see the base of it, and the retaining method - curious if it's identical to early style (collar around shifter rod, expanding tabs on shifter base that interlock into collar groove) I haven't tried to pull the knob off yet, guessing it pops off like the auto shift knob did?? That stinks, was hoping it was a screw on style. That kills my idea for making a shift knob out of an 8 ball. Who knows, maybe some JB Weld or maybe the 8 ball would look dumb anyhow. Yesterday I had a couple hours to play. I FINALLY have the wiring figured out thanks to BlackT5!!!! The 2 green and 2 white wires are pretty straight forward, those wires are under the TCU. The reverse light wires and the neutral start safety wires are in the plug that went to the auto transmission. Cutting the plug off the original auto trans harness was a bit nerv racking, but liberating. No more dealing w/ that PNP switch or any of the other issues I had w/ that trash automatic transmission!! Pic of the plug that gets cut off. Next was to solder the solid green wire to the green w/ red stripe wire in that harness. These wires are easy to identify, they're the fat wires in the harness. Some advice I learned when I used to install trailer wiring... Anytime you're doing electrical wiring that will even remotely be exposed to the weather on a car, always use Dielectric grease. Its super cheap and will eliminate a no-start issue caused by corroded wires. The wires that go to the reverse switch were a bit more tricky because the instructions only said to use the blue wire and the blue w/ gray stripe wire. Unfortunately in this harness there's 2 blue wires, one is dark blue and the other is light blue; use the dark blue wire. All the other wires in this harness (aside from the dk blue, blue w/ gray strip, fat green, and fat green w/ red stripe) go straight to the TCU. You can fish these out of the harness all the way to the TCU if you want to, but I just cut them off. What I did at the TCU was took the harness apart and pulled all the wires out of the harness that went to the transmission (I used a volt meter to figure out which wires were dead). This also gave me a wire to eventually use for the cruise control. To take this harness under the TCU apart is a little tricky. First you have to slide the plug itself out of the computer mounting block, once the plug is out you can take it apart. There's a little, pink retainer clip that slides through the harness, to remove this clip I used a small flat head screw driver. In the picture below, you can see the pink retainer, as well as all the wires I removed. After I pulled these out I just cut them off where they went into the plastic wire housing that goes back towards the transmission I'm going to try to figure out the cruise control eventually so I wanted to add that wire as well. From what I understand so far, part of the process for making this work involves adding a wire to #E15 of the ECU's harness. If I ever get this figured out, I'll do a complete thread on how I did it. Here's a pic of that harness w/ the wire added. A lot of pics and info, but I just wanted to include some of the things I struggled to find while doing this. Taking the ECU/TCU box apart can be a bit frustrating. The best advice I can give is don't pry on anything too hard, eventually it all comes apart. After you get both computers out, you then need to pull the white mounting block out; if you look down at it you can see the way it clips in, simply pry the retaining points back and lift it out. The plugs themselves will then slide out of the front of the white block you just pulled out by releasing some plastic things on the front side, pry these back and slide the connectors out. After you do that, you can then take the connectors out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 I bought the ebay shifter boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Glad you got it figured out. To get the shifter knob off, you have to push it down and twist it 90 degrees. Can't remember which direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 If all went well, I'd probably have this thing running tonight if I had that stupid radiator hose coupler. I can't even put the turbo plumbing back together w/out it. Grrrrrrrrrr ebay!!! Clutch is bled and seems to be working. I also need to find the reverse light plug that plugs into the transmission, but it'll work for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Yup, everything's buttoned up except for that radiator hose. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow, if not I'm calling the steel supply place and having them cut me a 5" long, stainless piece of 1 3/8" od pipe and running it that way. This is the first tune I've ever gotten. Lucky's instructions that came w/ the blue tune I got for letting the ECU "adapt" include monitoring the boost and A/F ratio during different throttle stages. I plan on eventually getting a boost gauge and probably an A/F gauge, but since I don't have these now is there anything I should watch out for while I'm driving this the first time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Just fired it up and took it for a ride. I have a coolant leak at the upper heater hose where it goes into the heater core now, must have bumped that during the swap somewhere. Not a huge deal, I planned on getting a heater core anyhow. What I might need is some help w/ a hesitation that it has when I step on the gas, and it hits the rev limiter at 4k RPMs. I do have a check engine light and haven't checked the code yet. Also, how many of you have unplugged your hazards?? I bumped that about 4 times in the short drive I took. Edit: Just did some searching on that coolant leak. Looks like that isn't the heater core, but that plugs into a union that then goes to the heater core. Once the car cools down, I'll tear into that a bit deeper. Maybe it just needs an O ring or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Shouldn't be hitting a rev limit at 4k - that would make sense for a auto tune like the car came with. Did the info from Lucky confirm the retune has the manual conversion factored in? Heater hose is held in place by a yellow plastic collar - depress the tabs on either side and the hose pulls right out of the firewall junction. Check that it is properly seated before messing with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 As far as the tune goes, he did charge me for it. I'll scan it in about an hour and report back. As far as the heater hose goes, Is there supposed to be a black O ring on the upper heater hose where it plugs into the firewall like the lower heater hose has? Mine doesn't have one and if its supposed to be there, that would explain the leak. Otherwise, I unplugged the leaking upper hose just now and put my pinky finger in there to see if I could feel where an O ring might go and couldn't feel anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Just did some more research on this heater hose crap. I think I'm going to pull that POS Volvo union in the firewall out and bypass it w/ standard heater hose. I'll post a pic of it once it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 There, I just fixed everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 Sounds more like one of the orings pulled out of the seat. They are supposed to stay in the union, not come out. It's really a pretty reliable design. Removing it would mean fucking with the fittings at the core, not worth it. Try putting the oring back in with some vaseline & then reinsert the hose. There is no reason to touch any of that to do a heater core anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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