mattsk8 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 2 codes. 1631 (Accelerator pedal maybe??), and a 344 (Cam position sensor). I'll try to find the O rings for the heater hose. It didn't leak at all before I did the swap, I was going to replace the heater core because I got the anitfreeze smell when I used the heater. Edit: More research tells me the 1631 code is "Control Module Communication". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Pretty sure I figured out the heater hose coolant leak. I think this happened while I was maneuvering everything when we put the transmission in, but that plastic heater hose coupling was cracked on the top hose. When I went to take it out from the inside, the top pipe basically fell out. So, I picked up a new heater core from the parts store here and I'm going to do that as well. I have to order that ridiculous Volvo coupling, so I probably won't get this together for a couple days yet. As far as my engine light goes, I might have figured that out too but I haven't had a chance to do more than idle it for a minute because of that bad coupling. I looked under the dash and realized I had forgotten to plug the brake switch in, hopefully that needs to be plugged in to complete the circuit?? I plugged that in and let it idle for a minute and no light; the light came on right away the first time I started it. I think my cam sensor may legitimately be bad, I wiggled the wire coming out of it and I no longer have that code either. We'll see once I get the cooling system back together how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Since I could fix that coupling w/ some heater hose and skip ordering, then waiting for the Volvo heater hose coupling to show up I just fixed it yesterday by bypassing the coupling and running heater hose straight from the engine, through the fire wall using the original coupling as a pass-through, and into the pipes going into the heater core. I no longer have a coolant leak and when I use my heater the car no longer smells like coolant thanks to the new heater core I also installed. But, I still cant rev past 4k RPMs and I still get the code 1631. Can anyone help w/ this?? The code scanner I'm using says this... Is it possible my electric accelerator pedal is bad?? Question for somebody w/ an electric accelerator pedal... When you step on the gas pedal, is there a point in the pedal's travel where it feels "grabby"? If I step on mine, its a smooth transition until about 2/3 of the way down, then it feels like its harder to push. Do they all do this, or should it be smooth all the way to the floor when you floor it? I would just replace the accelerator pedal, but I'm wondering if my scanner is reading wrong. When I google that code, it says "communication w/ the TCM"; which would mean my computer either isn't programmed right or wasn't programmed at all. Lucky at ARD did charge me for programming it for a manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 I'm not sure about that code, but the fact that you can't rev past 4k means there is something wrong with the file on your ECU. I would contact Lucky. It would really help if you had access to vida/dice in order to connect to the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Are you using the original throttle body? If this is an ME7 car, then that could contribute. I had my '01 give a throttle pedal code, and the car wouldn't run right. We replaced the pedal, even though the dealer mechanic swore that it was probably the throttle body. 2 weeks later, we were replacing the throttle body. Found out that when they go bad, sometimes they send so many signals over the CAN bus that they interfere with other devices. I still think my accelerator pedal was ok, it was the throttle body. Check yours. If it has the white tag on the front, it is original. If a yellow tag, it was replaced at least once. They are guaranteed to go bad eventually, simply due to their design. Xemodex builds a replacement, and Lucky has the parts to rebuild it yourself, if you are adventuresome. May not be the problem, but the symptom sounds familiar. Does it idle erratically as well? If so, get ready to replace the throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Are you using the original throttle body? If this is an ME7 car, then that could contribute. I had my '01 give a throttle pedal code, and the car wouldn't run right. We replaced the pedal, even though the dealer mechanic swore that it was probably the throttle body. 2 weeks later, we were replacing the throttle body. Found out that when they go bad, sometimes they send so many signals over the CAN bus that they interfere with other devices. I still think my accelerator pedal was ok, it was the throttle body. Check yours. If it has the white tag on the front, it is original. If a yellow tag, it was replaced at least once. They are guaranteed to go bad eventually, simply due to their design. Xemodex builds a replacement, and Lucky has the parts to rebuild it yourself, if you are adventuresome. May not be the problem, but the symptom sounds familiar. Does it idle erratically as well? If so, get ready to replace the throttle body. Thank you for your response! I'll check my throttle body tonight, it's a very good possibility its original and the car has 160k miles on it. Ironically, today I was going to mail my ECU back to ARD because Lucky (finally) responded and said he'd try it in his car to see if it works; he says he's certain the program is right for the Blue as well as the manual tune but he'd try it just to be 100%. Maybe I'll hold off on mailing it back. I will say this, this is getting frustrating. I don't know the first thing about tuning, so I'm not sure how you look back and see the program is correct. All I'm seeing is the code p1631, and I'm told that code is what happens when you don't get the manual tune. Just out of curiosity, if I were to ever do this again, can you use an ECU out of a T5m in a car that was originally an automatic and avoid the manual tune? Mine's an R, but if I were to send that ECU out and have it tuned for the bigger turbo and injectors, etc, would that work? I decided to do this swap because I was having all kinds of issues w/ the auto trans that was in it. I had crazy pressure issues (if I pulled the dipstick, trans fluid would 'erupt' like a volcano out of the tube), then I started having issues w/ the trans going into limp mode (not reving past 4k RPMs), and the reason I parked it was the transmission was going into neutral whenever I would stop, I had to rev it to get it to go (fluid level was good). The only code I got from that ordeal was the PNP code, and I had a rear O2 sensor code. At that point I wanted to do the manual swap anyhow, so I decided to go for it. I have had issues w/ cold starts in the past, the car would stumble a bit when I first drove off but then it would clear up. As far as idling goes, it always seemed to idle ok before the swap was done. Now, when I start it the car seems to rev kind of high (about 1200 RPMs), it has a hesitation whenever I step on the accelerator, and won't rev past 4k RPMs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Unfortunately it's not that simple. 99+ cars have an immobilizer that communicates with the ECU. They transmit a code back and forth that is unique to every vehicle so you can't swap an ecu into another vehicle without some modification to the file to match the immobilizer code info. If you read further in my 2000R thread, there's some info about the communication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I just researched the throttle body, $500 for the Xemodex. Is there any way to test these (is this where vida/dice would come in handy)? If not, I'll probably just get this. I just had my intake off, and mine certainly looked original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I wouldn't start throwning parts at it until you can pinpoint the problem, particularly if moey is an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I wouldn't start throwning parts at it until you can pinpoint the problem, particularly if moey is an issue. I wouldn't say money is an issue, but my wife hates this thing at this point and I'm not particularly a fan of throwing money away on things I don't need. At this point, I'm tied w/ my old M3 for how much I have into this thing. When I first bought this turd, the transmission shifted great. About a month after I got it, I decided to check the fluid; when I pulled the dipstick (engine running) transmission fluid 'erupted' out of the tube. After this happened, I also had a couple times where the car went into 'limp mode', where it wouldn't shift past 3rd gear and wouldn't rev past 4k RPMs. I scanned the car and the only codes I got were for the PNP switch and a rear O2 sensor. I did a fluid change hoping it would help this issue, but the 'erupting' didn't go away. The last day I was driving the car I was on my way to work and it went into limp mode and nothing I did would get it back out. Then, it just quit shifting all together. I shut the car off, started it again and it drove but it was stuck in limp mode. Also, when I came to a stop, it wouldn't go until I revved it to 3k rpms. This was the last day I drove this car. I actually started a >thread here about the erupting issues. After this all went down, I decided I didn't want to dink w/ this auto transmission cuz I wanted to eventually do the manual swap anyhow; that's what led me to where I am now. So my question is this... Is it possible the electric throttle control module was causing these transmission issues? Does the TCU read the throttle position through this module? If it does, does that reading then regulate the pressure? Just curious if my throttle control module has been the culprit the whole time. Another issue I had was about a month before I quit driving it to do this swap. I was driving the car and out of no where it started running like absolute crap, it was all I could do to keep it from stalling. Then after it did this for about 5 minutes, like someone flipped a switch it started running great again. The crazy thing about this instance is that I didn't get a code from this either. So now I'm faced w/ either paying $200 for Vida/Dice, and emptying an old laptop I have w/ Windows XP Pro on it so I can dedicate it to Vida/Dice, then if I finally figure out how to load everything I can figure out how to use it and maybe diagnose what I have going on. Or, the only alternative I have to that is Betten Imports here in Grand Rapids MI, they're the only Volvo dealer near me but they're terrible. So I guess at this point I just need to think about it. Do I mail my ECU back to ARD and take Lucky up on his offer to put my ECU in his car and try it so I can be completely certain the tune is good? Or do I get this VIda/Dice and spend Lord knows how many hours or days trying to figure that out? If I mail the ECU back, depending on how long he has it I should have it back a week from this Friday. That seems like the quickest way at this point. The other option is to just throw parts at it until it works, all the while hoping the tune is right. Lucky did say he checked my tune out and everything looked good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Honestly, I would get vida/dice. It will give you a much better idea of what the real issue(s) are. There are enough of us that have gone through getting vida up and running that we can walk you though any issues you might have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Honestly, I would get vida/dice. It will give you a much better idea of what the real issue(s) are. There are enough of us that have gone through getting vida up and running that we can walk you though any issues you might have. I'll order it today. Is this the unit I want?... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2013-Hot-sales-Professional-Volvo-Dice-Vida-not-only-J2534-but-also-Volvo-Protocol-support-SELF/437145144.html?tracelog&cn&PID=6146844&vd=30&tp1=3c2qq38jod6&src=ale&URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fproduct-gs%2F437145144-DHL-FREE-SHIPPING-Wholesale-2012-hot-sale-Volvo-Vida-Dice-2011A-professional-diagnostic-tool-Best-price-wholesalers.html&cv=11032041&af=cj_6146844 Edit: Since I'm not the most computer savy guy around, a friend of mine is a computer guru and he's going to reload my old HP laptop w/ Windows XP Pro so the only thing on this PC will be the Volvo software. The HP PC I'm going to use is ancient, I think its a 80 gig hard drive if I remember right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Use this chart to trouble-shoot your ETM: http://www.xemodex.com/technologyimproved/ETM%20Diagnostic%20Flow%20Chart.pdf IF the ETM is bad, and you are comfortable with a bit of soldering; order a Sacer TPS from Amazon.com for $140 and rebuild the ETM yourself. It is essentially the same sensor Xemodex uses and ARD sells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsk8 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Use this chart to trouble-shoot your ETM: http://www.xemodex.com/technologyimproved/ETM%20Diagnostic%20Flow%20Chart.pdf IF the ETM is bad, and you are comfortable with a bit of soldering; order a Sacer TPS from Amazon.com for $140 and rebuild the ETM yourself. It is essentially the same sensor Xemodex uses and ARD sells. Thanks, I printed that. Looks like I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Unfortunately it's not that simple. 99+ cars have an immobilizer that communicates with the ECU. They transmit a code back and forth that is unique to every vehicle so you can't swap an ecu into another vehicle without some modification to the file to match the immobilizer code info. If you read further in my 2000R thread, there's some info about the communication. Out of curiosity, is it possible to remove the immobilizer? Either with software/hardware changes or both? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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