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99 V70R M66 Swap


mattsk8

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Out of curiosity, is it possible to remove the immobilizer? Either with software/hardware changes or both?

Not sure about REMOVING the immobilizer, but reprogramming the immobilizer EPROM is certainly possible (essentially "cloning" the ECU). My brother did this to my '00 when the ETM was reprogrammed, so that the original tuned ECU could be switched with the clone and avoid erasing the tune ;).

As far as the OP, if you didn't have an ETM issue before, I doubt it's the ETM. Everyone likes to blame the ETM for any kind of issue on an ME7 car, but if it's running fine minus the 4k rev limit, I'd seriously doubt it's the issue. Sure sounds like it's still an auto program, thus the original 4k rpm limit being in place...

Hope this helps,

Joe

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Not sure about REMOVING the immobilizer, but reprogramming the immobilizer EPROM is certainly possible (essentially "cloning" the ECU). My brother did this to my '00 when the ETM was reprogrammed, so that the original tuned ECU could be switched with the clone and avoid erasing the tune ;).

Joe

Yeah, I think the other half of it is in the DIM (that's why they're VIN matched 99+), was wondering if they could both be told not to give a damn about the transponder code from the key.

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The key ring (lights up when you open the driver door) is the antenna for the immobilizer system located on top of the cluster and is the one that send the signal to the ECU ( so you can start the engine). I say when you clone the ECU, the file that match the immobilizer signal must be the same.

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Happy Thanksgiving. At this point its on hold, I mailed the ECU back to ARD, and Lucky's going to test it in his car to see if its a tuning issue. I'll probably go ahead and change the bumper this weekend, and I might take this free time to fix my ebrake which hasn't worked since I purchased the car. So far I've bought the 2 cables, but I might also need the one that goes all the way to the back as well. I probably won't hear back on the ECU until at least Tuesday, ARD won't have it until probably this Monday cuz of the holiday.

Thanks again for all the input, I'll update as soon as I hear back from ARD. On a positive note, I did receive the shift boot I bought on ebay yesterday.

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I figured out what the 2 wires that used to go to the TCU were for today. One was green/brown stripe, and the other is green/yellow stripe. These wires used to go to the transmission input speed sensor on the auto trans. (They don't have anything to do w/ the speedometer, just FYI.) I didn't want to pull them out of the harness cuz I didn't know where they went, but now I do. Just thought I'd share if someone's reading this and wants to get all these (now useless) wires out of their harness. These were the only 2 left in that plug that used to go to the TCU.

Its the 2 wires w/ the yellow arrow pointing at them. On the auto transmission end of the harness they'll have a small, gray plug that used to plug into the sensor on the automatic transmission.

ECU-TCU%2520mounting%2520block%2520botto

This doesn't have anything to do w/ figuring out my rev limiter issue, just figured that out today while I was horsing around in the garage and thought I'd share.

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While I'm at it and so I can have a fairly thorough understanding of how this used to work; can anyone tell me what this green wire is for?? It used to go to the TCM.

Looking at the wiring diagram below you can see the white wire goes to pin# B22 in the TCM mounting harness. I didn't do anything w/ this wire, its still in that harness. When I look at the diagram I can also see that this white wire doesn't need to go to anything else if it has a manual transmission.

ME7.jpg

My question is, there's also a green wire in my harness that isn't in this^^^ diagram. Does anyone know what this wire used to do?? Its the wire w/ the yellow arrow pointing to it.

IMG_20131125_214949_398.jpg

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Matt, there are only two ebrake cables, one per side. WhT you should have ordered are new shoes (4) and new retaining/return springs for the shoes.

Be prepared to find the ebrake cable to pivot mechanism seized. Just use penetrating oil & be patient with getting the barrel out if the cable ebd

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Matt, there are only two ebrake cables, one per side. WhT you should have ordered are new shoes (4) and new retaining/return springs for the shoes.

Be prepared to find the ebrake cable to pivot mechanism seized. Just use penetrating oil & be patient with getting the barrel out if the cable ebd

I actually got those 2 cables and I ordered the hardware kit from ipd. I'm guessing it all froze up and whoever had it before me decided the simple fix was to cut the cables back by the brakes. I'll get the shoes locally.

I still don't know what that one green wire goes to. Is there a wiring diagram that shows what that wire is??

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That green wire with the orange stripe at #B21 goes to the winter/sport/econ or whatever switch

Thanks. So this wire gets left alone; correct?

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Finally got word back from ARD. Lucky said it was a programming issue for sure, but he's not sure if it happened because my ECM is bad or if something happened on his end. Either way, he said this time he tested it in a car after he fixed the tune and everything looks good, so it should work in mine. Hopefully have it back here by this Saturday. If something weird happens again, he said he might need to clone my ECM and put the tune in the clone (I guess in 99 ECM issues weren't uncommon). I really, really wish I knew more about tuning.

If all goes well, I plan on taking it to a wheel dyno to see how the tune is.

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Good to hear he found a problem. It was the only thing that made sense, with the 4K rpm limit.

Glad you got it figured out. :)

That makes 3 of us :D . Can't wait to (hopefully) be driving this thing again soon. Then I can move forward w/ the million other things I plan on doing w/ it.

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