Brad850 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Already asked this in my poll thread but figured it can't hurt to put this in performance. I'm planning on purchasing 139.5mm cx racing rods/arp bolts, and honing cylinder walls (if necessary?). 1) I'm keeping stock pistons, but should I purchase new piston rings while I'm at it? Would it benefit me at all? Would I have to get someone to grind them down a bit, or do they just snap on as is? 2) Any special procedures when reinstalling rods/pistons? Do I simply drop them in the top and bolt onto the crank? Do i need any special lubricant for the pistons/rings? Should the cyl walls be coated with oil? 3) Also, bad idea not to purchase new main bearings/rod bearings? I would have just ordered a full toga set from ipp, but according to boxpin they are out of stock as of last month. If they simply continue to wear as usual, I don't really see the need for new ones? 4) Any other issues or important things to keep in mind while doing this that aren't frequently discussed? Not looking to do a real build at the moment. I just want peace of mind and a little more room for power. My engine in it's current state (compression wise) seems to be pretty healthy at ~120k miles. I'm thinking if I could do this for ~$1000 on a weekend, that would be cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod'sT-5 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I would replace the rings. You will need to put them in the bore and measure the end gap. that end gap may need to be adjusted, or ground down to specs. Coat the pistons in oil, install the rings. Make sure to stager the end gaps at least 120-180 degrees apart, should be a pic around somewhere. Then the rings have to be compressed before the piston is put into the bore. Its a lot easier to replace the bearing now, than later. Do they show much wear? Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I would probably have to take them to a shop along with my block. Don't really have the tools or knowledge to do something like that. Which is why I would rather not even touch the pistons. I will look into that more though. Would rather do it myself. edit: Clearly didn't do enough research. This looks doable, especially with my haynes manual (assuming it has correct end gap and other specs) My car is currently running. Last time I saw the main bearing shells, they looked decent with no odd scratches. Then again, I wasn't even sure what else I should have been looking for. I would have no problem buying new bearings if strongly recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAYWALKER Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 this is what i did after i bent my rod. i drop the pan. remove the head. got the head hot tank and have the valve seal replace. got cx racing forged rod with bolts(don't need arp bolt). rods balance. toga rod bearing. oem piston rings with stock pistons. hone cylinder wall with crank and block on the vehicle. i didn't mic anything. install piston ring with regular motor oil. assemble the rest with assembly lube. it been about 8,000 miles now and haven't used any oil yet. compression is about 160 psi all cylinders. just pass california emission about 3 weeks ago. the block hold up pretty well considering i used to have a overboost problem that sometime it would hit up to 27 psi. now i just used a mbc to limit my boost. running close to 20psi to redline. crankcase pressure is normal. oil don't sweat or leak out at dipstick,oil cap and ptc valve. lucky for me it work out fine. i was like you didn't want to do a full rebuild. so yes it is do able. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I did the same thing and ended up with this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol' Dirty Noodle Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Damn I thought the title said mid engine build and my dick got all hard... Back to limp sigh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAYWALKER Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 I did the same thing and ended up with this.... what cause that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 improper gap.."too tight" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruzer555 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Damn I thought the title said mid engine build and my dick got all hard... Back to limp sigh So it wasn't just me! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Not bad. Can't really think of anything else.. Rods/Bolts - 335 Rod bearing set - 31.28 Ring set - 211.9 Head bolts - 79.5 Head gasket - 34.95 Oil/filter - ~80 Shipping - ~50 (estimation) Total : $822.63 Parts already purchased: -Sealant -Valve seals -Loctite -Coolant -Assembly Lube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 improper gap.."too tight" They were gapped correctly. Even on larger side of the tolerance to accommodate increased temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricF Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 They were gapped correctly. Even on larger side of the tolerance to accommodate increased temp. Did you overbore? Or just reinstall stock size pistons? Measure the bores? Could have needed an overbore due to roundness/wear/etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Did you overbore? Or just reinstall stock size pistons? Measure the bores? Could have needed an overbore due to roundness/wear/etc. Thats what I think happened. I did not bore, just honed and threw new rings in there. I think the bore was out of round and I had a bought of detonation. Snap. Its getting bored now (really, today) going with Wisecos and we have been in touch with Wiseco on getting the tolerances just right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad850 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Do I need one of these to check the bore?....http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-6-DIAL-INDICATOR-BORE-GAGE-0005-GAUGE-/330880385983 Would I also need an outside micrometer? Would taking to a shop be a better option/cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Take it to a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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