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Car Dying But Alternator Ok?


BtownVolvo

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Hey guys!

Been having a rather intermittent issue lately, but don't want to take any chances driving it anymore. On occasion, the radio was cutting out and restarting. Didn't really think too much about it and was almost excited thinking I could finally use this as an excuse to replace the stock radio.

Fast forward to tonight. Driving at night and the radio cuts out when I tap the brakes. Weird. Then I notice that the lights start dimming every time I tap the brakes and be ABS light flashes on quickly and turns off. Make it up to my driveway and the AC clutch kicks on and the car literally dies for a second, hiccups, then turns back on just fine. All the while I'm thinking alternator, so I grab my multimeter. 12.7 at the terminals.

I leave the car for a couple hours while I go out for the evening, come back, and test it at the alternator terminal while on. 14 dead. So now I'm wondering if it's a loose ground wire or if there's some goofy issue with the alternator after all.

Battery was replaced about a year ago with an OEM Volvo battery from the dealer. I'll probably get it tested to rule it out completely, but wanted to get some other ideas of places to look as well before I go tightening every bolt under the hood. Thanks guys!

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Yea sorry. It was late, and I had a few drinks while typing the post HAHA.

I'll check the alternator terminals when I get home, but the fact that it died when the AC kicked on kinda makes me want to think it's the alternator? Still weird that it churns out 14 vdc if it's dying?

Where are the resistors? I'll check those as well.

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The voltage regulator can start acting up in weird ways. As in it could stop when it gets hot and then start working again once it cools down. So you need to test voltage right when it's going dead. Having a constant reading in the vehicle is a good idea. BUT it could be a grounding issue as well.

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The voltage regulator can start acting up in weird ways. As in it could stop when it gets hot and then start working again once it cools down. So you need to test voltage right when it's going dead. Having a constant reading in the vehicle is a good idea. BUT it could be a grounding issue as well.

Wow. Not sure where I got resistor from voltage regulator. I need to go back to bed.

But yea. Are our regulators internal or external?

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The regulator is right under the black plastic cap that says "Bosch 100A." Three screws, pull off the cap, two screws hold in the regulator. You can actually get it out with the alternator in the car, I've done it on an NA may be a bit of a hassle on a turbo car. Heard it is easier if you pull the shroud.

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I had an issue where mines would die after a few hours of sitting, ran tests, tested it over night, checked ground etc. went on for several months.

Took the alternator to three parts stores to run on their machines, it passed two of the three. The only thing I hadn't done was replace it. Replaced it, problem solved. It was a costly and time consuming risk, but it was obviously worth it.

Goes

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