BlackT5 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 About a week ago I went to pick up one of my kids from school. We got back in the car, I cranked it over, it fired up but the revs immediately dropped and the engine stalled. I cranked it over again and it didn't catch. I tried again and it started as normal. Things were fine until yesterday when I went to leave work and the same thing happened. I drove the car for the rest of the day with several stops and starts and everything was normal. I drove the S60 today but my wife had to run some errands and took the wagon. It worked fine for her this morning but just got a call and it acted up again. Same symptoms exactly. Car has 166k miles. Motor has ~39k miles. I'm dreading that it's the fuel pump as it certainly seems fuel related. I'm not sure if the pump is original or not. No CEL but I will plug the car in tomorrow and see if there are any codes set. I would think a bad cam or crank sensor would light up the dash, but it will be good to check anyway. It could be an immobilizer issue I suppose, although probably unlikely. When I was troubleshooting the car not starting after I built it, i swapped the antenna ring for an almost new one. Lucky corrected the situation with the ECU by flashing it with a modified auto tune instead of the manual tune that he originally sent. It's been perfectly fine until a week ago when it started acting up. This leads me to believe it's either a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump, but I wanted to get some more opinions. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 You ever replaced the fuel pump relay? If not, that's ALWAYS the place to start. Especially if your not storing any codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I actually put a T25 driver and spare relay in the glove box yesterday when I got home, but decided to take the S60 today. I'll swap that tomorrow and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I should add that when it wouldn't start yesterday, I did try turning the key to pos II a couple times before actually cranking and I could hear the pump priming. Although it did maybe sound quieter than I remember, is it possible I was only hearing the siphon pump on the driver side or would it be on the same circuit? Haven't look at any wiring diagrams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I would suggest immobilizer based on the symptoms. Not just the antenna ring, but there's also a TNN for loose terminals at the immobilizer connectors... Hope this helps, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunktified Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 there's also a TNN for loose terminals at the immobilizer connectors... cool, i wonder how i hadnt come across that info yet, my dad has the occasional immobilizer no - start in his '00 and key +antennaring already replaced .. thats probably what it is ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 cool, i wonder how i hadnt come across that info yet, my dad has the occasional immobilizer no - start in his '00 and key +antennaring already replaced .. thats probably what it is ... Yeah I forget now what the number is, but can find it at some point . Basically entails checking the tension on the female connectors, because they get loose and don't make positive connection with the male pins. I believe it involves both the antenna ring connector and module connector . Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Yeah I forget now what the number is, but can find it at some point . Basically entails checking the tension on the female connectors, because they get loose and don't make positive connection with the male pins. I believe it involves both the antenna ring connector and module connector . Joe Here's a link to TJ4523.... http://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/c70_convertible/l5-2.4l_turbo_vin_56_b5244t/starting_and_charging/power_and_ground_distribution/wiring_harness/component_information/technical_service_bulletins/all_technical_service_bulletins_for_wiring_harness/tj4523/jul/10/immobilizer_system_no_start/dtcs_233/234/321/page_35355/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIZIO AKA 1 HND MEC Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Had the same sickness on the 00 R, no CEL starts fine when cold once warm -up problem came-up. Crank sensor was the culprit on my car after 218.xxx miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huffs Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Did "BlackT5" find the cause? I have a '99 V70 XC and had erratic throttle idle issues after reinstalling the intake manifold alternator and battery (all to access a damaged fuel line). Battery appeared to charge via the alternator (running avg 13.87 volts) off appeared to stay around 11.9-12.1 volts. Had battery thoroughly checked (chkd good). I noticed green powdered corrosion on the three-wire red hot post INSIDE of the eng. compartment fuse box (box containing the relay for the etm ). I assume this corrosion and the broken copper strands will allow enough resistance/ voltage drop to cause etm and ets light issues (I am currently replacing 3-wire red cable-battery to fuse box). I was also wondering if it it possible to deform the etm body at the butterfly IF the clamp is over tightened (I found that the access through the intake manifold using a 1/4 drive air wratchet was much simpler BUT unsure if clamp could over tighten and cause the housing to deform and allow the butterfly to seize or only partially open thus possibly inducing etm issues? I would really like a response on this from someone from XeModex. Gas peddle connector, tps,etm tube are on securely on and appear in good condition....I will check the resistances and voltage from battery to fuse box to relay and from relay to etm (.5-butterfly closed to 5-butterrly OPEN volts according to two Youtube videos) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I haven't had much time to look at the car with the weather and stripping the S60. I did swap my key with the spare and the issue hasn't reappeared so far. Time will tell. As for your etm issue, I would check the ground under the intake manifold. I think it's a brown wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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