boxpin Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Must be a typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Those instructions clearly aren't for the Volvo ARP kit, which is non-stretch studs and nuts, not bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 https://www.vivaperformance.com/content/pdf/arp_head_stud_volvo_installation.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Must be a typo Although ARP mentions using the "stretch method" for torquing the rod bolts if you have the proper tool (never seen one), the ARP rod bolts technically aren't TTY stretch bolts. A TTY bolt is torqued beyond the state of elasticity and therefore undergoes plastic transformation, causing it to become permanently elongated. It can only be used once and then replaced. The ARP rod bolts can be re-used. If you look at step 8 of the ARP instructions, they only need to be replaced IF they become stretched. Vida instructions clearly state to lube the TTY head bolts, and ARP recommending lube on there bolts supports that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 For those of us that have broken head bolts trying to remove them, lube them up but good. May not actually help, but it sure feels better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjflexer Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Caution! Make sure that no fluids are present in the cylinder head bolt threaded bores. The main purpose of making sure no fluid is present in the head bolt threaded bores is that if you were to install and torque a headbolt into a hole that was 1/2 filled with oil/coolant you stand great risk in either pulling the threads out of the bore or cracking the block due to the hydraulic force that would be caused by torquing said bolt into said hole with said oil/coolant which = very bad day for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfly Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Has anyone above used studs on their engines? I have an S70 and want the new head to seal well. ARP (know personally) or other Brand Names you like? Fourty years of engine building from B&S to Ferrari- I lightly oil the threads. Thanks for your info.! Derfly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I would not use the head studs simply because you cannot (working) alone lift the head off without removing all the exhaust manifold studs first - with bolts, you just lift the head enough to clear the locating dowels & pull it up and forward off the block and manifold. Reinstall is also easier this way, IMO. Head bolts hold up to at least 450AWHP :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Step 6. Came with my OEM headgasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 As H said, studs are a pain in the arse if you're trying to do the headgasket by yourself in the car. I wouldn't use them unless pulling the engine out and doing a full rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Interesting that you change the torque depending on the stretch of ARP rod bolts then ain't it Deimos? And back to Jeff's post on not lubing head bolts...that's how they snap during removal and make noises that are sphincter puckering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Interesting that you change the torque depending on the stretch of ARP rod bolts then ain't it Deimos? Despite us often referring to TTY bolts as 'stretch bolts' doesn't mean they're the only ones that stretch, all bolts stretch when torqued. What ARP is talking about there is not stretching them too much, not permanently stretching them, as they talk about making sure they haven't gotten longer when measured before re-installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 My method: dunk half the threads in a quart of the nearest oil and toss them in, easy peasy.. ohhh, forgot, never bought a single new head bolt...ever. They hold, get over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 ohhh, forgot, never bought a single new head bolt...ever. They hold, get over it. Remind me to lauch my arse off when you have to drill one out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 ohhh, forgot, never bought a single new head bolt...ever. They hold, get over it. Get over what?? Actually they don't. Redblock head bolts I wouldn't hesitate to reuse - whiteblocks not so much. Eventually you will snap one off in the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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